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Help with 92 Explorer Stereo

TheHigherEnd

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I am going insane, my hands are bleeding... we've all been there.


Ok, so I have a 92 Explorer Sport 4x4 and am on the quest to have music.


I bought it and the factory radio turned on but no sound, I went out and bought a new aftermarket deck and proceeded to take out the old stereo.

Due to a combination of ignorance and the wrong wiring kit I commited a sin against nature and cut the shielded cable (I think it may have been broken to begin with as it was smashed up and floppy)

Anyway, so after I had both powers and ground to the new unit it powered up and of course did nothing when trying to hook up the speakers. To the 8 wires in the shielded cable.


After much research into it I bought a bypass kit, cracked upen the panel and bypassed the amp.

Hooked up the new stereo again, no power. Checked all the fuses (the dome lights are the same as the radio) no power.

Hooked up the old stereo to see if I ruined my new one somehow... no power.

Hooked the factory amp back up as it was... no... power.



Now, I'm just about to pay the bucks to have a pro look at this, but a part of me would die if I did that.

So I'm wondering, is there another fuse I'm unaware of? The radio fuse blew during my first install attempt and was replaced. This was before I even knew about the factory amp, was replaced, and then the radio powered back on so I don't think it has anything to do with that. It has something to do with bypassing it.

Is the bypass kit more than what the instructions say? They say to just hook up the in and out amp harnesses to the connector and you're set.

Am I doomed to a life with no music?


Ugh. :thumbdwn:
 



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Small update, I plugged in the harness to the back of the stereo with the key off and I can hear the cd player "whirr" for a second, but turn the key and nothing. This leads me to believe I may have somehow broken/jiggled loose the switched power wire. Does that sound right?
 






Are you sure the quick "whirring" sound wasn't the fuel pump priming? Is it actually powering up when you first turn the key on?
My suggextion is double check all grounds. Then make yourself a wiring diagram of exactly how its setup in your truck to try and find the issue. Take your time and trace it all out.
Hopefully someone has a more secific answer for ya and chimes in

*edit* oh I just reread your post. Its not the fuel pump :p make sure you have consistent power running to it. A volt meter or even a test light will go a long way in finding the elusive power
 






More updates, I hove power!

As usual, I am an ass... I had pulled and checked nearly every fuse until I found another one... I guess it has 2 fuses.

Now to the next issue. Periodically, and everytime I start the beast my new Sony Xplod flashes FAILURE and then proceeds to work. While this may be an accurate assumption of my installation thus far it's something I am looking to fix.

My research to this point suggests a problem with the wiring (I got 3 out of 4 speakers working thus far, both front and one back, then after a few seconds now just front two work)

My question now is can having the positive and negative mixed up cause this? I tried the old, "until they work" method of troubleshooting which of the eight wires was which, but again... first 3, now two.


*sigh*

I am starting to realize I may need to run wires after all. Which makes the grand tally of a mounting kit it turns out I didn't need, a wiring harness that was the wrong one, and a bypass kit that was, again, pointless.
 






thats great about the power, but sucks its still givin problems. double check that the connections to the speakers are nice and solid. I ended up crimping mine to keep em where they belong. good luck and keep at it!
 






thats great about the power, but sucks its still givin problems. double check that the connections to the speakers are nice and solid. I ended up crimping mine to keep em where they belong. good luck and keep at it!

Ha, thanks, it's a new vehicle (well, for me anyway) so it's got it's fair share of quirks and little things to fix. When driving around town earlier today the window started rolling itself up and down at random. I assumed it must've been my handiwork so I pulled the stereo and it stopped doing it on the way to the next place.

Then started doing it again to the next store. Then didn't do it for the subsequent 3 following places we went (busy day).

A NEW CHALLENGE AWAITS!


On the upside I've been having small successes here and there and it runs like a brand new vehicle. I'll take that with a possessed window problem to fix any day.


Also, got myself a roll of stereo wire and a full set of star sockets... I'm going in! :salute:
 






http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/crutchfield.cfg/php/enduser/prnt_adp.php?p_faqid=4918&p_created=1185987116&p_sid=aRRXusek&p_redirect=&p_li=

just hit "Cancel" when the print menu pops up to view the page



1992 Ford Explorer with Premium Sound Wiring Information
Answer


The information contained in this article, is presented as a convenience and is without warranties or guarantees of any type. Due to the constantly changing nature of this type of information and running changes in vehicle production this information may not be timely and/or accurate . Any person or entity using this information does so at his or her own risk. If you find this information is different from your vehicle, do not continue with your installation.
FIREWALL WIRE ROUTING:
To route wires through firewall for amps, alarms, etc. locate the large black rubber plug on firewall back from emergency brake pedal below a large round white plastic multi wire plug. In the engine compartment the plug is below and to the right of the brake master cylinder (as viewed from front of vehicle) and appears to be solid rubber but is actually a cylindrical center with a thin sheath. It is fairly easy to poke holes through the sheath around the small bundle of wires which route through center of plug.

Premium Sound System
FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Accessory 12 Volt 6 YW/BK
Constant 12 Volt 8 L.GN/YW
Chassis Ground 7
3 BK
RD
Power Antenna
Remote 1 D.BU
Illumination 4 OG/BK
Dimmer 5 L.BU/RD

FUSE VALUE FUSE LABEL FUSEBOX LOCATION
15 AMP #11 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL
15 AMP #1 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL

Factory JBL system adds subwoofer with amplifier that receives signal from main amp, sub will not work if amp is bypassed.
Left Front + To Amp 16 L.GN
Left Front - To Amp 15 WT/OG
Right Front + To Amp 12 WT/RD
Right Front - To Amp 11 BN
Left Rear + To Amp 14 L.BU/BK
Left Rear - To Amp 13 YW
Right Rear + To Amp 10 VT/WT
Right Rear - To Amp 9 L.BU


Amplifier Wiring
FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Constant 12 Volt 1 YW
Chassis Ground 2 RD
Amp Remote 3 D.BU
Left Front Speaker + 7 OG/L.GN
Left Front Speaker - 8 L.BU/WT
Left Rear Speaker + 9 PK/L.GN
Left Rear Speaker - 10 TN/YW
Right Front Speaker + 11 WT/L.GN
Right Front Speaker - 12 D.GN/OG
Right Rear Speaker + 13 OG/RD
Right Rear Speaker - 14 BK/WT

FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Right Rear - Input 15 L.BU
Left Front + Input 18 L.GN
Right Rear + Input 19 VT/WT
Right Front - Input 20 BN
Right Front + Input 21 WT/RD
Left Rear - Input 22 YW
Left Rear + Input 23 L.BU/BK
Left Front - Input 24 WT/OG
*The two plugs shown match the two ends of our 70-5004 bypass jumper.
 






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