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help with cam synchronizer

02f250fx4

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ALright I messed something up. First off its a 2000 ford explorer with a 4.0 pushrod (VIN X).

I put the motor at top dead center, removed the top of the upper intake to gain access to the cam shaft sync. placed the sync tool on the new shaft and put it in place. when the sync was fully seated it was not at the 30 degrees from center line( same place I marked before on firewall before removal). I pulled the shaft back out a little bit and attempted to rotate to the correct position. the sync would not seat properly. I attempted to pull the entire shaft back out but was unable to because the oil shaft had stuck inside the sync. I removed the intake manifold and removed the oil shaft from the sync. I then placed the sync back in place and everything lined up. Put the motor back together, now motor runs for a few seconds then spits and sputters before dying.

can anyone tell me what I screwed up and how I can fix it.

I will keep searching posts for answers but due to it being dad's daily driver I am kinda in a time crunch.


Thanks
 



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I can tell you its most likely not the cam sync. Your engine will run without it.(although it wont run great.)

Is everything hooked back up? wiring, vacuum hoses (check them carefully), etc.
 






Did you use the tool to remove the old part? If you did you dont need to worry about marking the firewall. The part can face the opposite way it does not matter its pretty irelevant.

BUT. If you didn't use the tool to take the old part out then you may not have had TDC to start with even though you may have been close. If is out by a few hairs then so is your timing.
 






well I missed hooking up one hose that is under the throttle position sensor. It now runs, it seems to idle a little high but dad is on the way here to listen to it to see if it is normal for his explorer. Would being off on timing cause it to idle high?

Thanks for the help
 






YES. High or low idle can be interpreted as a timing issue. One thing can try is using the old Ford Sensor cap on the new part. I found the aftermarket part a bit dodgy and caused higher fuel consumption
 






Are you sure the #1 cylinder was on the compression stroke? There are 2 actuall TDC's if using only the timing mark on the main pulley for reference. The camshaft turns 1 revolution for 2 of the crank shaft. You need to have the timing mark on the bottom crank, and the camshaft in time.



It is confusing to some people, which is why I asked-
 






I took out spark plug #1, put finger over hole, had dad turn motor over with wrench. air came out of hole, took screw driver placed on top of piston and had dad slowly turn motor over. the piston topped out and stoped right there.

As far as high idling I ran it around the other day and it seemed the high idle came down. Upon start up it idles around 1200 rpm and drops after a few seconds to around 800. It also does this after riding at a constant speed and them coming to a stop. It idles around 1200 then it sounds like it drops down to around 800 in two stages. Dad says it has always done this but I never noticed it. than again it is not my daily driver. I changed the throttle position sensor and it still does it.
 






IAC valve is the one that keeps the idle speed constant. On top of throttle body.
 






I took out spark plug #1, put finger over hole, had dad turn motor over with wrench. air came out of hole, took screw driver placed on top of piston and had dad slowly turn motor over. the piston topped out and stoped right there.

As far as high idling I ran it around the other day and it seemed the high idle came down. Upon start up it idles around 1200 rpm and drops after a few seconds to around 800. It also does this after riding at a constant speed and them coming to a stop. It idles around 1200 then it sounds like it drops down to around 800 in two stages. Dad says it has always done this but I never noticed it. than again it is not my daily driver. I changed the throttle position sensor and it still does it.


IAC valve for sure. Timing would not come down. Take the part off and give it a good clean. There is a thread for it. If it still does it then replace it.
 






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