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Help with camshaft placement sensor and fuel pressure regulator


JimmyJohns1657

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2000 mountaineer v8 5.0
So i have a 2000 mercury mountaineer, with an explorer motor in it, v8 5.0. I've had it about a year, motor has 100k. Well it started to have a rough idle and stutters when accelerating, so i did a tune up on it. New plugs and wires, as well as a fuel filter and oil change. That didnt fix the issue, so i went to have codes pulled. My check engine light came on about 2 months ago, which i had checked then and it was a loose gas cap code. I never replaced the gas cap, so light has been on since. So now codes say maf sensor, camshaft sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. I replaced maf and gas cap. Im assuming fuel regulator code is referring to the sensor on the fuel line? And having issues finding camshaft position sensor, any help is greatly appreciated. Thx
 


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koda2000

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1. You don't have a Mountaineer with an Explorer motor, you have an Explorer with Mountaineer badging. They are exactly the same vehicles mechanically.

2. On a 2000 the fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel tank and is not monitored. If you suspect a fuel issue test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve. A 2000 should should be around 65-67 PSI at the rail. If pressure is low it could be due to one of the following:

- a bad pump
- a leaking hoses inside the tank
- a broken fuel pressure regulator
- a clogged fuel filter

A rough idle can be caused by many things... Have you cleaned your MAF sensor and IAC valve? A compression test would eliminate internal engine problems.

What makes you think your cam sync sensor is at fault? If it is it will usually throw a code. Get your codes scanned again. You may now have additional codes.

You can never take ODB II codes for their face value. They just point you in a direction for more diagnosis. Maybe you need to replace your gas cap. Maybe you have a small evap leak in your fuel filler or vent lines/hoses..A small vacuum leak will not make your engine idle rough.
 




JimmyJohns1657

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Its throwing codes for camshaft sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Replaced maf sensor and gas cap. Im going to buy the set up to test the fuel pressure. Thanks for the help. Also, if i drop the fuel tank, is the pressure regulator part of the fuel pump? Or is it a separate part? Ive tried looking up fuel pressure regulators for this model, and fuel pump assembly comes up, like in a set.
 




fast_dave

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@JimmyJohns1657

Welcome to the forum!

OK - to answer your question, A COMPLETE - Drop Into your Fuel Tank - Fuel Pump Assembly for a 2000 Mountaineer with a V-8 is comprised of the following components; Utilizing the picture below, and starting from the bottom up;

Fuel Strainer, Fuel Pump, Gas Gauge Float & Sending Unit, Fuel Pressure Regulator (Round Silver & Black piece with rubber hose attaching at BOTH ends).

BELOW is a pic:



Link to Rock Auto fuel pump offerings for your Mountaineer:

2000 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 5.0L V8 Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | RockAuto

Hope that helps and report back/close the loop!
 
Last edited:




JimmyJohns1657

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@JimmyJohns1657

Welcome to the forum!

OK - to answer your qustion, A COMPLETE - /Drop Into your Fuel Tank - Fuel Pump Assembly for a 2000 Mountaineer with a V-8 is comprised of the following components:

Fuel Pump, Gas Gauge Sending Unit, Gas Gauge Float, Fuel Pressure Regulator & a Fuel Strainer.

BELOW is a pic:



Link to Rock Auto fuel pump offerings for your Mountaineer:

2000 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 5.0L V8 Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | RockAuto

Hope that helps and report back/close the loop!
 




JimmyJohns1657

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Ok yeah that's what i was looking at, thx for the verification. Im going to replace it in the next few days, will report back after. Im pretty good with fords, but never replaced a fuel pump in the tank. Anything I should know ahead of time? I've already replaced the fuel filter, can't be much harder than that lol.
 




fast_dave

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@JimmyJohns1657

Using the LINK posted in Post 4 (ABOVE) I'd recommend this TYC fuel pump assembly for you, offered by Rock Auto: TYC 150223 for $83.79

TYC is one of my go to brands I've had great service with, and I have a TYC fuel pump in my Explorer.

Rock Auto now offers & sells the entire line of TYC parts.

TYC is a Tier 1 OEM Supplier for Navistar, Daimler, Ford, Suzuki, Jaguar and Harley-Davidson, and are now branching out into the aftermarket. Rock Auto has partnered up with them, and selling TYC parts to retail customers.

Here's a 5% off discount code from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 7218F8D293D908
Expires: October 23, 2019


Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other...


Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure:

Use the SEARCH function box on the upper right hand portion of this page, and search this forum. Its very well documented subject, and many threads have good pictures to guide you through the process. Use terms like "drop fuel tank" and "replace fuel pump" ...

Tips:

Some guys choose to do this by cutting a hole in their floor - I'm not a cutter - I lifted mine in the air.

With that in mind, It's easiest to do with a 1/4 tank or less.

Remove Drivers side rear tire & lift Ex in the air, supporting w/ (4) jack stands.

A motorcycle jack OR a using cut up piece of plywood (so you don't punch a hole in your tank) and a floor jack will make lowering AND re-installing the tank much easier.

Be prepared for a LOT of dirt/grime on top of fuel tank.

It's not a very hard job, its close to "plug and play" - BUT the tank is bulky & dirty! I'd say 4-5 hours taking your time.


 
Last edited:








JimmyJohns1657

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@JimmyJohns1657

Using the LINK posted in Post 4 (ABOVE) I'd recommend this TYC fuel pump assembly for you, offered by Rock Auto: TYC 150223 for $83.79

TYC is one of my go to brands I've had great service with, and I have a TYC fuel pump in my Explorer.

Rock Auto now offers & sells the entire line of TYC parts.

TYC is a Tier 1 OEM Supplier for Navistar, Daimler, Ford, Suzuki, Jaguar and Harley-Davidson, and are now branching out into the aftermarket. Rock Auto has partnered up with them, and selling TYC parts to retail customers.

Here's a 5% off discount code from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 7218F8D293D908
Expires: October 23, 2019


Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other...


Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure:

Use the SEARCH function box on the upper right hand portion of this page, and search this forum. Its very well documented subject, and many threads have good pictures to guide you through the process. Use terms like "drop fuel tank" and "replace fuel pump" ...

Tips:

Some guys choose to do this by cutting a hole in their floor - I'm not a cutter - I lifted mine in the air.

With that in mind, It's easiest to do with a 1/4 tank or less.

Remove Drivers side rear tire & lift Ex in the air, supporting w/ (4) jack stands.

A motorcycle jack OR a using cut up piece of plywood (so you don't punch a hole in your tank) and a floor jack will make lowering AND re-installing the tank much easier.

Be prepared for a LOT of dirt/grime on top of fuel tank.

It's not a very hard job, its close to "plug and play" - BUT the tank is bulky & dirty! I'd say 4-5 hours taking your time.

@JimmyJohns1657

Using the LINK posted in Post 4 (ABOVE) I'd recommend this TYC fuel pump assembly for you, offered by Rock Auto: TYC 150223 for $83.79

TYC is one of my go to brands I've had great service with, and I have a TYC fuel pump in my Explorer.

Rock Auto now offers & sells the entire line of TYC parts.

TYC is a Tier 1 OEM Supplier for Navistar, Daimler, Ford, Suzuki, Jaguar and Harley-Davidson, and are now branching out into the aftermarket. Rock Auto has partnered up with them, and selling TYC parts to retail customers.

Here's a 5% off discount code from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 7218F8D293D908
Expires: October 23, 2019


Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other...


Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure:

Use the SEARCH function box on the upper right hand portion of this page, and search this forum. Its very well documented subject, and many threads have good pictures to guide you through the process. Use terms like "drop fuel tank" and "replace fuel pump" ...

Tips:

Some guys choose to do this by cutting a hole in their floor - I'm not a cutter - I lifted mine in the air.

With that in mind, It's easiest to do with a 1/4 tank or less.

Remove Drivers side rear tire & lift Ex in the air, supporting w/ (4) jack stands.

A motorcycle jack OR a using cut up piece of plywood (so you don't punch a hole in your tank) and a floor jack will make lowering AND re-installing the tank much easier.

Be prepared for a LOT of dirt/grime on top of fuel tank.

It's not a very hard job, its close to "plug and play" - BUT the tank is bulky & dirty! I'd say 4-5 hours taking your time.

Th
@JimmyJohns1657

Using the LINK posted in Post 4 (ABOVE) I'd recommend this TYC fuel pump assembly for you, offered by Rock Auto: TYC 150223 for $83.79

TYC is one of my go to brands I've had great service with, and I have a TYC fuel pump in my Explorer.

Rock Auto now offers & sells the entire line of TYC parts.

TYC is a Tier 1 OEM Supplier for Navistar, Daimler, Ford, Suzuki, Jaguar and Harley-Davidson, and are now branching out into the aftermarket. Rock Auto has partnered up with them, and selling TYC parts to retail customers.

Here's a 5% off discount code from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 7218F8D293D908
Expires: October 23, 2019


Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other...


Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure:

Use the SEARCH function box on the upper right hand portion of this page, and search this forum. Its very well documented subject, and many threads have good pictures to guide you through the process. Use terms like "drop fuel tank" and "replace fuel pump" ...

Tips:

Some guys choose to do this by cutting a hole in their floor - I'm not a cutter - I lifted mine in the air.

With that in mind, It's easiest to do with a 1/4 tank or less.

Remove Drivers side rear tire & lift Ex in the air, supporting w/ (4) jack stands.

A motorcycle jack OR a using cut up piece of plywood (so you don't punch a hole in your tank) and a floor jack will make lowering AND re-installing the tank much easier.

Be prepared for a LOT of dirt/grime on top of fuel tank.

It's not a very hard job, its close to "plug and play" - BUT the tank is bulky & dirty! I'd say 4-5 hours taking your time.

Thx for all the help, rly appreciate it. Do i have to drain the tank? Its pretty low, about an eighth full or so. Also, the camshaft sensor, is that located at the back of the motor, under the intake?
 




fast_dave

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@JimmyJohns1657

No problem - just trying to help a brother out & keep these rigs on the road :chug:

* You don't have to drain the tank - 1/8 of a tank is pretty much optimum.

* The CPS is located where the Distributor used to be - and on a 5.0's that's at the front of the engine.

NOTE: Make sure you order a NEW fuel filter when you get your new fuel pump assembly.
DO NOT risk running your old one. A new one from Rock Auto will run around $10. Motorcraft & WIX are good ones.

Make sure you get some fuel line disconnect tools from Harbor Freight - the Aluminium ones work best - They're around $15

Most Important: Please close the loop with the forum as to your progress and remember to take PICTURE - IMGUR hosts them for free. Don't be a stranger! ;);)

 




koda2000

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I'm curious how you can get a DTC regarding fuel pressure, or the fuel pressure regulator. There are no electrical parts (other than the fuel pump and fuel level sender) in the fuel delivery system. How could the PCM generate a DTC if it has no way to measure fuel pressure. I've had fuel pumps fail on 6 different Explores (2000's and 2001's) and have never got a DTC. The fuel pressure regulator in the tank has no electrical components associated with it, it's strictly mechanical and only fails if the plastic housing cracks. The only wires on the fuel pump itself are power and ground. There are no other parts on the fuel's delivery to the fuel rail/fuel injectors other than the fuel filter and the device (can't think of the name of it) on the fuel rail that acts as a buffer to smooth out pressure spikes, and that's vacuum operated, not electrical.

You really need to start by checking your fuel pressure at the rail before you start throwing parts at your problem. You say the motor has 100k on it, but you don't say how many miles are on the fuel system. In my experience the OE fuel pumps start to have problems at between 175-200k. I've never replaced the entire fuel pump assembly, only the pumps and submersible fuel lines. For me the biggest PITA was when trying to get the FP assembly disconnected from the fuel line, which I've only attempted once and it took me hours and a trip to the auto parts store for the aluminum disconnect tools (I found the 3/8" size released the connector with about 15 seconds).

If after testing your fuel pressure you have the 65-67 PSI at the rail there's nothing wrong with your fuel pressure. Don't fix what ain't broke.

As far as you DTC with the CPS, your sensor may need to be replaced, which is easy to do, but be aware that stray electrical signals coming from a bad alternator have been know to set a DTC for the CPS on these vehicles.
 
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JimmyJohns1657

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Yeah i wondered the same thing, there are no sensors detecting the fuel pressure regulator. I had the codes pulled at oreillys, think im going to have them pulled again to double check. I have the fuel line disconnect tools, i changed the fuel filter a few days ago, huge PITA. When you say the sensor could be bad, which one are you referring too?
 




JimmyJohns1657

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It will still start right up, and drive, but when i start to accelerate it tries to cut out, and stutters pretty bad at times. You can smell gas pretty strong at times too. Almost like its flooding. When i first crank it up, it idles really rough too. After a couple minutes it levels out on idle.
 




JimmyJohns1657

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Also the fuel system has about 210k on it.
 




donalds

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the device (can't think of the name of it) on the fuel rail that acts as a buffer to smooth out pressure spikes, and that's vacuum operated, not electrical.
Fuel pressure pulsation damper
 




410Fortune

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You need to check fuel pressure before you replace anything else!
Throwing parts at it is not good.....it will always be the last part you buy that fixes it
Post the codes you are getting.......

The cam synchronizer/ sensor is on the front of the 302, under the coil pack
Low fuel pressure can cause some of the issues you are having, but so can a dirt MAS, or a bad cam synchro....so we need to know the codes and you need to know your fuel rail pressure
You can rent a fuel pressure tester.
When you have the codes checked WRITE DOWN THE ACTUAL numbers.....
 




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