kjgces
Member
- Joined
- March 27, 2009
- Messages
- 44
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- bethlehem,pa
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 explorer 4.0 sohc 4wd
ok, about me, i have been posting for a while during my quest to fix my 5r55e. so far i have had good and bad luck. when i got it it had 160k miles, not bad, but when the tranny FINALLY got fully warmed up the 2-3 flare started and then after "tinkering" with it i finally got reverse to start acting up.
So far, I have had the trans flushed, i replaced the vb with a "rebuilt " one from transmission parts in FLA, it work very good for about a day and a half, oh yes, i DID the separator plate and the blowoff valve tsb. after a week of so they sent me another vb since we "thought" the first one was sticking somehow. put that in, installed a drain plug(finally) and adjusted the bands, worked fine for about a day and a half. opening it up again, installed another ford separator plate thinking the torque had gone bad on the bolts(yeah right). THAT worked for a few days. then i thought, it MUST be the servos, so replaced both servos and put the drings on the reverse servo, adjusted the pressure screw on the epc 1/4 turn "in". on and on and on it goes, currently, about two months into this adventure in frustration, my reverse is now very bad, almost none at all, forward is STILL 2-3 flare and intermitent bucking when going from 2-3 when cold,( it moves right into the 2-3 flare once it gets warmed up, feels like it is dropping out of gear then sliding back in but in rapid speed. at heavy throttle it works "better", some times, sometimes it doesnt matter. today i got in there with a pressure gage on the line pressure port. here is what i found...
initial readings---rpm----position---temp-----reading-----comments
idle park cold 100-95 steady needle
idle rev cold 125 vibrating
idle neutral cold 90 steady needle
1000-1500 rev cold 225 swinging about
idle drive cold 120 vibrating
second test (after fixing broken tubing 2x and cleaning up all the oil in driveway after trying the stall tests)
transmission has now warmed up to operating temp.
rpm-----position------temp-------reading----comments
idle neutral hot 55 steady
idle rev hot 75 steady
idle park hot 50 steady
idle drive hot 80 steady OD on
idle man 1 hot 75 steady OD on
idle man 2 hot 75 steady OD on
stall speed man 1 hot 75 shuttering
idle man 1 hot 75 steady OD off
idle man 2 hot 75 steady OD off
idle drive hot 80 steady OD off
3000 neutral hot 60 steady OD off
what do you think. it sure does point to the EPC and other parts getting dirty and sticking or leaking once it warms up.
if you think about it, every time i removed and reinstalled the vb it worked well for about 1-2 days or until it got dirty again. however, now we have three different epc's counting the original one, we have two rebuild vb's of respectable quality. each time i dropped the pan there was a film coating on all the components( the gray gunk). even after just a few days. overall the readings were significantly lower once the trans heated up, the ford doc i found says if "low pressure reading at idle in all ranges -
-low fluid - no not that
-fluid inlet filter seal - i doubt it but possible
-main control body - have used two but who knows how GOOD the rebuilds are, what REALLY has been done, are they just cleaning them or FIXING the parts, changing solenoids, etc. i'll bet those are the ones that cost 200 instead of the 90 i paid.
-cross leaks- yep could be that, but i thought the new sep plate fixed that.
-gaskets- same as above...
-Pump- possible but doesnt explain why it runs well for a day or two
-separator platesame as above (been there done that TWICE)
ok, what does everyone think?
So far, I have had the trans flushed, i replaced the vb with a "rebuilt " one from transmission parts in FLA, it work very good for about a day and a half, oh yes, i DID the separator plate and the blowoff valve tsb. after a week of so they sent me another vb since we "thought" the first one was sticking somehow. put that in, installed a drain plug(finally) and adjusted the bands, worked fine for about a day and a half. opening it up again, installed another ford separator plate thinking the torque had gone bad on the bolts(yeah right). THAT worked for a few days. then i thought, it MUST be the servos, so replaced both servos and put the drings on the reverse servo, adjusted the pressure screw on the epc 1/4 turn "in". on and on and on it goes, currently, about two months into this adventure in frustration, my reverse is now very bad, almost none at all, forward is STILL 2-3 flare and intermitent bucking when going from 2-3 when cold,( it moves right into the 2-3 flare once it gets warmed up, feels like it is dropping out of gear then sliding back in but in rapid speed. at heavy throttle it works "better", some times, sometimes it doesnt matter. today i got in there with a pressure gage on the line pressure port. here is what i found...
initial readings---rpm----position---temp-----reading-----comments
idle park cold 100-95 steady needle
idle rev cold 125 vibrating
idle neutral cold 90 steady needle
1000-1500 rev cold 225 swinging about
idle drive cold 120 vibrating
second test (after fixing broken tubing 2x and cleaning up all the oil in driveway after trying the stall tests)
transmission has now warmed up to operating temp.
rpm-----position------temp-------reading----comments
idle neutral hot 55 steady
idle rev hot 75 steady
idle park hot 50 steady
idle drive hot 80 steady OD on
idle man 1 hot 75 steady OD on
idle man 2 hot 75 steady OD on
stall speed man 1 hot 75 shuttering
idle man 1 hot 75 steady OD off
idle man 2 hot 75 steady OD off
idle drive hot 80 steady OD off
3000 neutral hot 60 steady OD off
what do you think. it sure does point to the EPC and other parts getting dirty and sticking or leaking once it warms up.
if you think about it, every time i removed and reinstalled the vb it worked well for about 1-2 days or until it got dirty again. however, now we have three different epc's counting the original one, we have two rebuild vb's of respectable quality. each time i dropped the pan there was a film coating on all the components( the gray gunk). even after just a few days. overall the readings were significantly lower once the trans heated up, the ford doc i found says if "low pressure reading at idle in all ranges -
-low fluid - no not that
-fluid inlet filter seal - i doubt it but possible
-main control body - have used two but who knows how GOOD the rebuilds are, what REALLY has been done, are they just cleaning them or FIXING the parts, changing solenoids, etc. i'll bet those are the ones that cost 200 instead of the 90 i paid.
-cross leaks- yep could be that, but i thought the new sep plate fixed that.
-gaskets- same as above...
-Pump- possible but doesnt explain why it runs well for a day or two
-separator platesame as above (been there done that TWICE)
ok, what does everyone think?