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Help with SAS

David89

Active Member
Joined
September 30, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Libertyville, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 XLT
Hey guys i'm still new with this custom work, so i need some help with my SAS. I got a 78 jeep wagoneer D44, i'm rebuilding it right now and just finished painting it jet black. I got the perches, now i just don't know what springs to get. Should i get lift kit springs or stockers, i want my X to sit pretty high like on 39s or 40s, but still use a 1st gen steering box and not have a HUGE driveshaft angle. Any ideas???? :thumbsup:
 



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That will be pushing the limits of the 44. If im correct (and im not sure) the wagoneer axle is the weaker of D44's.


I would start looking at the Solid Axle build ups in this section of the forum.

Here are some good ones and mine:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135596
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181186
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131813
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139094
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173855
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175126

Read these go from there. Study Study Study before you take on this project. If you do you will be fine if you have ok fab skills.
 






Well i'm pretty committed to this now and i wanted to stick to springs, causes its cheaper. What is weaker about it?
 






I dont want you to quote me on that. It may be that there are some part availability issues or something. I just cant place it right now.
 






I just went with this axle cause i got the whole front end of the wagoneer for 200$ and delievered to my house. Plus i really liked how section525 did his SAS. I think i might just go with 2.5 lifting leaf springs in the front. I do like the lime green you got going on your rig!
 






good luck with 40"s on a dana 44. I break mine with 35"s. Isnt that axle a passanger drop? I barely can clear 35"s right now and my fenders are trimmed a bunch. Also my driveshaft is almost binding as it is. If you do your steering right that will eat as much as just going coils would.
 






No the axle is driverside, the guy from the junkyard said it was a 78 but i think its in the 1980 years. What about alloy rims and upgrading the axle shafts? would that hold 38s playing in the mud?
 






LOL 40s. "Rims" dont really have nothing to do with whether or not the axle shaft will hold up.

I think you're forgetting a very important aspect about this whole thing -- the steering links which often interferes with the leaf springs. You dont design the steering around the suspension, you design the suspension around the steering -- so first worry about how you're going to run the steering w/o any binding (which usually mens hi-steer knuckles) . And you cant just rotate the axle housing to clear the steering link from the leaf w/o consequences cauz then your caster and pinion angles are all out of wack.
 






LOL 40s. "Rims" have nothing to do with whether or not the axle saft will hold up.

I think you're forgetting another aspect of this whole thing -- the steering links which often interferes with the leaf springs. You dont design the steering around the suspension, you design the suspension around the steering -- so first worry about how you're going to run the steering w/o any binding (which usually mens hi-steer knuckles) .

Gotya. like i said just tryin to get some info about this before i TRY to do it!
 












Another thing to consider is that your tires will rub on the leafs on full lock and that's just with 35's. Now add 39's or 40's and that will really bring the suck. I feel i'm at the limit with my D44 on 37's even though I have cro-mo shafts and 300M joints. That and the fact that i'd like to have a wider axle before I go bigger in tire size to keep them from rubbing on my coils.
 






Then whats a good axle to go with that will suit 37s or 38s?
 






D60 is the next step and you better be prepaired $$$ wise to go there.


Any solid axle swap is on the costly sided but the D60 alone is pretty costly
 






yeah I'm finding that SAS aren't that cheap right now. But its stronger than my IFS and it will pay off in the end( I hope). Once i get it rolling again i will post some pictures!
 






so if those D44s are snappin shafts on 35s...then can a D30 from YJ handle a 35?
 






so if those D44s are snappin shafts on 35s...then can a D30 from YJ handle a 35?

The small ring & pinion gears and the housing itself are the weak spots on a D30. I wouldn't run any bigger than 32s or so on it under a big heavy Explorer (and you'd want to truss it's housing too)

If you have the TTB D35, keep it. Even the D44 doesn't really have a whole lot to offer over the D35 due to having the same size u-joints. Sure you can upgrade the D44 with alloy shafts and what not to make it stronger, but by the time you spend all that $$$ on it, you may as well just go with the D60. You'd be much better off in the end.
 






that right there just smashed my hopes....oh well...
can i armor and brace the crap out of it and still use it by chance?
my truck is my DD but on the weekends it sees trails and mud.

ok, so i dont do really heavy wheelin where i would need a D60.
i was just lookin for something that still has the same lug pattern as a 8.8
what axle then can i put a 35 on then besides a D60?
Something out of a newer cherokee, like a 2000 sport?
my brother has one of those and its about the same size as an X.
(im wanting to do a SAS because of my ttb steering is less the great and looks too)
 






Why not just fix your steering? (may be as simple as putting the Skyjacker drop pitman arm #FA600 on it) Seems that would be far easier than swapping the whole entire thing out (which would still involve swapping of the steering)... :confused:

The D35 will handle 35s fine if you throw a set of the Warn #37780 Jeep lockout hubs on it.


If you absolutely must swap, then a D44 at minimum would be what I'd use. This way at least you aren't going backwards like with a D30.
 






ive already got warn lockouts on my D35. To stuff 35s, all i need is to re-gear to 4.88, and do some trimming. would i need to go to a 6" skyjacker spring or could i stick with 5" or so"?
 



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ive already got warn lockouts on my D35. To stuff 35s, all i need is to re-gear to 4.88, and do some trimming. would i need to go to a 6" skyjacker spring or could i stick with 5" or so"?

Are they the Warn #37780 Jeep lockouts? (the standard #29071 Ranger/Explorer hubs are not near as strong)

4.88 gears would be good for 35s yes (you could go 5.13 too if it's not your primary daily driver). As for clearing the 35s, 6" should be fine except maybe if you're contorting the suspension offroad. It shouldn't need anything more than very minor fender trimming to clear completely however. With more trimming, you should be able to fit the 35s even at 4" lift.
 






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