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Help with sound system

DanVer84

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May 3, 2018
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Year, Model & Trim Level
96 explorer EB
Hey everyone.

I recently purchased a 96 EB and I'm pretty happy with it given it's age, but my rear passenger speaker doesn't work and neither does the sub located in the cargo area. It runs a premium JBL sound system. Any advice would be useful.

Thanks in advance
 



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I'm not quite familiar with that setup but using a multimeter you should be able to tell if there's a small AC voltage going to the speaker. If there is then it's blown.

If there isn't then I would suspect the sub amp has partially failed which would leave you sourcing a replacement, repairing discrete components in it if you're up for that challenge, or deciding how much of the factory system needs replaced since (as far as I know) the dash head unit can't work without the amp, because the amp powers more speakers than just the sub unlike a more traditional aftermarket setup with similar output power.

I've a fair amount of audio experience and can assist if you can figure out what's going on electrically. For example if the audio signals are making it back to the amp and you wish to substitute a different multi-channel amp, mounted elsewhere, that may be possible but you may end up stringing and soldering several wires.
 






Thanks for the reply. I've never really dealt with amps before and it's kinda perplexing to me. If the 3 of the other speakers work and they're also powered by the amp, could the amp still be bad? The 3 that do work have great volume, but crappy kick. I guess I'm just going to pull the quarter panel and test the sub.
 






A common failure point of most amps is the output transistors. There's at least one, usually two per channel. Granted sometimes they are integrated into a power-amp chip with more components. Yes you can have one channel blow out and the rest still work. On the other hand, could be a frayed wire, corroded connector, or as already mentioned the speaker itself may have failed.

Using a multimeter in AC voltage mode (20V range or so) you should be able to measure input audio signal to the amp for each channel, and output to each speaker, once you figure out the wiring pinout. With it playing audio you can deduce which wires are which based on using the fader (left/right/front/rear) controls to vary the signal levels which would vary the AC signal voltage a corresponding amount.

The speakers might not have much kick because with a sub they could have ran a high pass filter and let the sub handle more of the bass, reducing the output power requirement to the other speakers. Well that would just be lack of bass, if there is early distortion (at an unusually low volume) then the amp power supply circuit might just be worn out, dried up capacitors for example that aren't holding the power rails up during peak bass.

You might get lucky, might just be something simple and free to fix like a cracked solder joint or two.
 






The 96 will have a separate amp for the sub. It's common for it to fail.
 






JC, thabks for your detailed reply. Im going to do some testing this afternoon. My gut is telling me that this is more of a speaker issue, and a sub amp issue. Hopefully it's just a fuse somewhere under on the box behind the quarter panel. I hear these oem parts are hard to come by.
 






Hey guys,

So after some frustrating work on a humid South Carolina day, I've come to the conclusion I have a blown rear speaker, and a blown sub amp and sub. My next question is, could I in theory put an aftermarket head unit in and new 4 way speakers in the doors and not wire the amp to the aftermarket adapter?
 






That's what I would do. Just run new speaker wires instead of dealing with the headaches of the adapter...
 






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