Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from V8 and OHV v6 engine compartment | Page 10 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from V8 and OHV v6 engine compartment

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ncz

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March 23, 2013
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City, State
Charlotte, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Explorer XLT
Nevermind

Turdle, if you are still there, there should be two equal "vanes" on top of the shaft of the syncro correct. I have one "full size" vane and one nub. I mean NUB, basically flat. If it broke off I can't find where it went!! Looks like syncro for me huh??

OK, nevermind, I am a moron:mad: Just saw the pics on the first page of the thread, looks like one vane only!! Getting syncro anyway now that I am there, hope that fixes the squeak and code
 
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azstang

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January 4, 2005
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City, State
Tucson, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT 5.0 AWD
Does anyone have the correct Motorcraft part number for the cam sensor for the 99-01 V8 trucks? That would be the two wire sensor vs the three wire used on the earlier models. Everything I find shows the same part number for the old models and the new which is DU-57 and is a three wire sensor. Even Motorcraft.com calls out the DU-57, but I have one sitting here and it's got three wires in the connector as apposed to the required two.

Thanks,
Shawn
 
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azstang

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Tucson, AZ
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2000 XLT 5.0 AWD
For future reference:

1999-2001 Explorer 5.0 part numbers.
Motorcraft Cam Synchronizer: DA-2090
Motorcraft Cam Position Sensor: DU-81

Runs much better now.

Shawn
 
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ford99explorer

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July 24, 2014
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Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Ford Explorer
99 ford explorer squeals when ac is on

Hi all, any help would be greatly appreciated. My 99 Ford explorer squeals when turn on truck for a couple seconds then squeals really bad when ac is turned on and gets worse when you rev the engine. Thanks!!!
 
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lugnuts55

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Joined
February 20, 2010
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City, State
Milwaukee, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 Eddie Bauer
If the squeal goes away when you turn off the a/c, the compressor is likely seized. Also look for any other pulleys that the serpentine belt drives, such as the alternator, power steering, idler pulley. You need to just take the belt off the top pulley or whichever one is most accessible, but the belt needs to be off the pulleys so you can check them for ease of turning. If one is hard to turn, than you need to look at that part to see why or if it doesn't move at all, chances are that's the one you need to look at closely.
 
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ford99explorer

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99 Ford Explorer
Squealing ac issue: thx lugnuts55

One more ?. If my ac compressor has seized, would I still be able to get my cold ac to work? Because it does get cold. Just curious, thanks! I'll need to take to a mechanic as this lady is not doing it! :)
 
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lugnuts55

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City, State
Milwaukee, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 Eddie Bauer
Not likely. The a/c system needs the compressor to circulate the refrigerant throughout the system. If that doesn't happen, then no cold air.
If you still have cold air when you turn on the a/c, then the squealing is not the compressor. The idler pulley is also a common cause if this problem. If you are taking it to a mechanic, then he will probably know to do the things I have suggested. Plus, he will have the added advantage of having the vehicle there to look at and test. Please let us know what the problem was.
Thanks,
Mike
 
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fropiler

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October 6, 2014
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City, State
Cottage Grove, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Explorer 2wd 5.0
Guys, I think I found a new way to goof up this project. This is on a 5.0. I got the old one out and new one in in record time. Cranked it up and I may be fooling myself but I remember the oil pressure coming up like normal. Then it dropped and I can't get it to come back up.

Pulling the sensor off the top of the synchronizer shows the shaft not turning. Then when I tried to remove the synchronizer it's stuck, very stuck! Wouldn't come out with a pry bar or a slide hammer (aluminum casing is losing chunks but that's about it). The new one meshed with gears fine but I may have forced the last 1/16 with the hold down. Everything seemed all lined up. I've never done one of these but I turned wrenches professionally for a while though it's been a few years. I'm just unsure what way to jump. Suggestions?

This is what I'm worried about. I have 2 new synchronizers on hand, a cardone and a rpt. Neither will go in that last 1/16. I considered trying to "persuade" it to go all the way in with the hold down but read here somewhere NOT to force anything. if I put the old part back in it seats just fine. SO, I'm going to try a new Motorcraft part this time. I'll report back here with the results.
 
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beach

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May 15, 2006
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City, State
south florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
Coyote F150
I've seen people mentioned oil (5.0), seems some have said they used sewing oil, tranny fluid etc. Does any oil work, or anything specific to use? I have the slight chirp and after replacing all pullies, alternator, belt, fan clutch etc, its still there mostly at startup then it kind of fades away but you can faintly hear it, it quiets down when the motor is at temp.

Figure be proactive and put oil in it since that appears to work. So what oil should I use or does it not matter?

edit - so used a syringe and some oil and chirp is gone :thumbsup:
 
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beach

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
638
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City, State
south florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
Coyote F150
I've seen people mentioned oil (5.0), seems some have said they used sewing oil, tranny fluid etc. Does any oil work, or anything specific to use? I have the slight chirp and after replacing all pullies, alternator, belt, fan clutch etc, its still there mostly at startup then it kind of fades away but you can faintly hear it, it quiets down when the motor is at temp.

Figure be proactive and put oil in it since that appears to work. So what oil should I use or does it not matter?

edit - so used a syringe and some oil and chirp is gone :thumbsup:
So over a month later and all is good, quick easy fix!
 
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