Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from V8 and OHV v6 engine compartment | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Helpful thread, for squeak, squeal, chirp noise from V8 and OHV v6 engine compartment

i've got the same sound as iboneward. just trying to figure out what's going on. if anyone knows, please tell. thanks, matt.

Just adding to my note above. The noise generally only lasts seconds. At the most 15 seconds. It can happen with the ac on, with heater on or with neiter on. I can go days without hearing it then have it take place daily. Can happen at idel or at speed. thanks.
 



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same exact thing here. i know my tensioner pulley is about shot, that's in the same general area. if you figure out what it is please let me know. if i can scrape up the money to replace that tensioner, i'm gonna do it soon.
 






same exact thing here. i know my tensioner pulley is about shot, that's in the same general area. if you figure out what it is please let me know. if i can scrape up the money to replace that tensioner, i'm gonna do it soon.

I saw in another area of this site people talking about the Idle Air Control Valve causing noise and idling problems. My 00 4.0L also has slight idle problem. In the other thread they seem to complain more about idle problems than they do noise problems so difficult to say if the IAC is the answer. They talk about cleaning the IAC with electroni parts cleaner rather than replacing it. Cost to replace appears to be $50 to $75. Some have tried cleaning it and their problems were solved but only for a short while so they ended up replacing it. Appears to be an easy thing to get to and remove. I may just try this. Perhaps it will at least improve my idling and just might solve the noise as well.
 






I saw in another area of this site people talking about the Idle Air Control Valve causing noise and idling problems. My 00 4.0L also has slight idle problem. In the other thread they seem to complain more about idle problems than they do noise problems so difficult to say if the IAC is the answer. They talk about cleaning the IAC with electroni parts cleaner rather than replacing it. Cost to replace appears to be $50 to $75. Some have tried cleaning it and their problems were solved but only for a short while so they ended up replacing it. Appears to be an easy thing to get to and remove. I may just try this. Perhaps it will at least improve my idling and just might solve the noise as well.

Take a good look at the IAC sensor thread first. Much easier part to get to for process of elimination. There is a video a member posted in the "under the hood" section of this forum. When the noise occurrs, pull the black cap off the sensor. If it is still happening then it is not the IAC.
 






well, i am gonna replace my tensioner today because driving home last night, the squeal stopped and my battery light came on. i pulled in at a school, and sure enough, the pulley from the tensioner was gone. only thing left is the tensioner arm and half of the front bearing, the back bearing, and outer race of the front bearing are somewhere along this mile stretch of road. it's only $40 to replace the whole arm, so at least i can afford it. i will let you guys know if i still get the noise. matt
 






same noise

I had a squel and chirp on my 96 0hv. Replaced the idler pulley and still made noise. So i came to the conclusion in was the cam synchro shaft. I ordered the whole kit from napa which had the synchro, the sensor, and the tool. I was kind of concerned about the cheap synchro, so i ordered a ford synchro and used the tool and sensor that came with the napa part(Dorman) Tool off the plenum and hood and got the synchro out. It was very bad. It made noise and it was binding when turned by hand. Im a pretty skinny guy so i was able to squat in the engine bay and squeeze my hands between the firewall and intake manifold to do the install, but it was not fun. Much easier with the manifold off, but i didn't have the time to pull the manifold. Installed everything last night and it fired right up, no problems yet, and no noise. Thanks to this forum for the wealth of information!
 






i correct myself, the bearing did not split apart (and there's only one bearing) but at 9:30 with a flashlight, it looked like it did. the pulley must have disintegrated, what was left was really chewed up. new tensioner was only $40, and it only took a little over a half hour to replace. all you need is a 13mm socket and ratchet. so far no squealing and no noise, but i only drove about 1/4 mile from my uncles to home. i will post if i keep getting the noise.matt
 






on my way home, the sound came back. so i don't know whats goin on. mine usually happens between 35-40 mph, and between 1800-2000 rpm.
 






CPS shaft Squeak Fixed

I found this post about a year ago after chasing this squeak for several weeks. I fixed mine by lubricating the shaft with the unit installed in the engine. I used a low viscosity moly oil (I don't remember which one but I suspect any good quality 10 to 20 weight oil will work.) I pulled the cover and the sensor off the unit so I could see the bottom of the sensor well. There is a small space between the rotating platter and the housing. I dipped a small drinking straw into the oil and capped the top end with a finger tip to capture a small amount of oil (a couple inches up the straw) then placed the straw end into the CPS housing and let the oil out into the bottom of it. The oil worked its way around the shaft as the engine ran and in a very short time the squeak stopped. It has not returned now after a year and approximately 15K miles. I had purchased one of the Dorman replacements and upon inspecting it would not use it because of quality concerns. I did the lube thing to try that while I was there. I'm glad I did. If my squeak returns I will just lube it again.
 






I used a compression tool to find the compression stroke.

P1000696.jpg


I then found TDC.

P1000695.jpg


I disconnected and removed one coil pack to gain access to the CPS, then removed the sensor.

P1000698.jpg


the bolt that uses a wedge to hold the CPS in.

P1000699.jpg


fit the tool on the old synchro (not sure if it was necessary or not? but knew it wouldn't hurt)

P1000700.jpg


old one out, and shop towel to prevent any debris from falling in.

P1000701.jpg


new one in and bolted down. point closer to straight forward than the old one.

P1000702.jpg


old sensor next to new sensor.

P1000704.jpg


old synchro, and it's noisy as hell!

P1000705.jpg
 






Thanks Yazuka76 for the video that is the exact noise mine is making !! Thanks for all your help guys this is my ole ladys car and im a diesel guy myself. If we couldnt fix it i was gonna get her an excursion.... SHEW... That's money i dont need to spend in this economy!!THANKS AGAIN^^
 






Do you have to have it at top dead centre or can you just mark where the arrow points before removal and replace the new one at that same mark.
 






Do you have to have it at top dead centre or can you just mark where the arrow points before removal and replace the new one at that same mark.

it must be at TDC on the compression stroke.
 






Could i do it this way.

1. Remove inlet plenim

2. Remove wire connector to CMP cap

3. Remove CMP cap

3. Place removal tool onto CMP

4. Rotate crankshaft (to find TDC) until removal tool locks onto position on top of CMP

5. Remove hold down bolt then remove CMP

6. Replace new CMP with Tool fitted

7. Refit hold down bolt and remove Tool

8. Refit CMP cap

9. Refit wire connector

10. Refit Plenim

The point i am trying to make here is at number 4. Obviously the Tool is not going to fit onto the CMP if the crank shaft is not at TDC. By turning the Crankshaft until the tool fits snug would do it right.

Any takers on this one.
 






Could i do it this way.

1. Remove inlet plenim

2. Remove wire connector to CMP cap

3. Remove CMP cap

3. Place removal tool onto CMP

4. Rotate crankshaft (to find TDC) until removal tool locks onto position on top of CMP

5. Remove hold down bolt then remove CMP

6. Replace new CMP with Tool fitted

7. Refit hold down bolt and remove Tool

8. Refit CMP cap

9. Refit wire connector

10. Refit Plenim

The point i am trying to make here is at number 4. Obviously the Tool is not going to fit onto the CMP if the crank shaft is not at TDC. By turning the Crankshaft until the tool fits snug would do it right.

Any takers on this one.

Sounds good to me. In fact I think I suggested that earlier. That is how Dan Whitaker did his while we were at the drag strip. Yup, he changed his in the pit area using that method
 












Well it looks like Ford know very little about their own parts. Even though i gave them the VIN number they still gave me the wrong part number. Or did they. There are three possible variations to the part number, all being the same except for the last 2 digits. AA AC or AAB. Ford tell me i have the AC which is why i ordered the 689-106. The part i removed has an AA on it but different numbers precedng the letters. The second set of numbers on the removed part have the same numbers but no letters at the end. The dorman part i should have ordered (689-105) has a part number compatibility AAB.

So there are two different dorman parts that are available for the same car. There is a 132mm shaft (689-106) and the 123mm shaft (689-105).

None of the dorman listings tell you which exact application you need, all they say is there is a difference in shaft size. Both are listed as 96 OHV with VIN number containing X (bingo) thats me.

So if Ford dont know, and Dorman dont know, then i guess anyone attempting this job themselves will need to remove the old part before ordering the new one to make sure the measurements and part numbers are right.
:mad:
 






Managed to get the new part in and the sqeak is gone. Thanks for all the help and for this exremly useful thread. The diagnosis was spot on.

Also, didnt need to find Top Dead Centre. Just put the special CPS tool on top of the old Synchroniser while still in the car. Got under the car and Turned the crank shaft until the special tool dropped and locked into position and BINGO! Top Dead Centre. Made sure i marked where the arrow was pointed and pulled the sucker out. Installation was a just as easy. The only thing is when you refit you have to lower into position slightly off line from your mark as the gear on the bottom of the synchroniser needs to mesh with the gear in the block. Its prety musch a guess, but if you end up with the arrow on the tool facing were it should, its all good. You see, with the tool locked and loaded on the synchro the gear cant turn, thats why the whole unit has to turn when lowered into position.

Thanks again.
 






Helpful thread. Just replaced the synchronizer on my explorer. At first I thought it was the top idler pulley after replacing that I narrowed it down to the synchronizer.
$50 for the synchronizer, sensor, and tool at NAPA
 



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I have a 97 SOHC 4.o. I had a mechanic pull the engine and replace all timing chains and tensioners. The noise is better but still sounds like an old straight 6 with noisy lifters. What could this be?
 






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