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Here we go again.

What a pain in the arse!

I feel so empty inside.
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Wanna buy a tranny?
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Out with the old and in with the rebuilt
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What is the best method of sliding the new one in?
 


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chriswells78

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LOL, We almost hit the drywall getting this one out. My buddy and I stood in the engine bay and picked it up manually to get the bottom over the core support while another buddy pulled back on the hoist.
 




Spdrcer34

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Jack the X up, take the front wheels off, and lower JUST the front, until the bumper almost touches the ground. And unbolt the hood latch mechanism. And just pull it out of the way.

Ryan
 




chriswells78

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Hood is already off and out of the way. The engine and tranny go in as one lump easy that way? I'm not looking forward to lining up the tranny to the block while it is in the vehicle.
 




Spdrcer34

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I said pull the hood LATCH mechanism off...not just the hood...

The latch mechanism will save you about 2" of clearance over the core support.

Raising the rear by itself lowers the front. But taking the front wheels off, and lowering the front even more makes that much more of an impact. I have a VERY LOW ceiling in my garage, and I have done all the work you guys are talking about in there. And that is how it was done.

Ryan
 




Turdle

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^^^^^good advice-

My trans and engine went in separately, trans first. Leave the trans mount loose-but have it supported.
I installed my motor mounts and plates, then lowered the engine onto the plates,
Don't tighten the mounts up until the trans and torque converter are bolted tight.

My engine was almost on end,(at least 30 degrees) flexplate end down, skewed a bit to the left, and lowered in slowly while straightening it into position.
 




Xan

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i've done trans and engine together and seperate, but i find that together is easier. That is if you got 2 people... i'd just take off the wheels up front and jack up the back like Spdrcer34 said then have one person man the hoist and the other lift up on the trans and help guide it in. Then when you get it in the transmission tunnel have the other person get under and push up on the trans. Then get a nice floor jack under the trans (use wood between the two) to keep it level and if you keep the wheels lined up with the wheels of the car it should slide back as you push in on the hoist. Then drop it down on the mounts then put the trans crossmember on then tighten up all the mounts.


BTW!
if you do trans and engine seperate put a jack stand under the front or buy a new transmount.... if you let it sag you will ruin it and i give it a 80% chance of breaking eventaly
 




chriswells78

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The rebuilt is now in...

1195828202.jpg
 








chriswells78

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You bet.
 




chriswells78

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Fuel rails and fuel lines are in, TM headers are almost in.

Now it's off to the in-laws for eating turkey.

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chriswells78

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continued progress

Here is where I am now.
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I still need to fab up the intake, hook up the AC lines, put the fan/shroud/belt on, tighten the tranny lines and tune it. I'll hook the exhaust up after that.

I also will be having a 4406 enroute very soon, should be here first part of next week.

I also have a few other issues to fab around...
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Aparently with tension of the pedal on the throttle cable, it is a little tighter than I expected. The cable pulls the TB arm out slightly over the idle screw. I just have to drill some new holes and adjust it to fit.

I also need to drill some holes in the bracket to fit a zip tie through to hold the cruise control cable out of the way.

Also notice, the bracket sticks up kinda high. I'm thinking I'm going to need a hood cowl to get over it.
 




Turdle

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It looks close, but I bet you clear.
Oh, my what a lovely intake-you finished the plaque nicely-:thumbsup:
 




chriswells78

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It looks close, but I bet you clear.
Oh, my what a lovely intake-you finished the plaque nicely-:thumbsup:

When you look across the fenders, you can tell that it sticks up 1"-1.5" above the fenders.

Thanks, Thank you for the nice PC job :thumbsup:! I took my dremel with sanding disks to smooth the script down, then jewlers rouge with a buffing head to shine it up. Then Plasticote Engine Enamel clear coat to keep it shiney.
 




chriswells78

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I'm so close I can taste it. I didn't make my goal of firing it this weekend, but it will be soon.

Last night I had a minor set back. Aparently when I put the coolant elbow on, the thermostat slipped a little bit and wouldn't allow the dang thing to seal. When I put coolant in it, it pee'd out all over the place. I figured it out and fixed it.

Today I put a drain plug in my tranny pan to make future changes easier. Filled the tranny, realized that without a TC on it, when you put more than 5 quarts of fluid in, it pee's all over the place. I loaded the tune in the PCM. I tried to crank it, but the battery was too weak. I need to get my buddy's jump box.

I need to go to Jegs tomorrow and get a K&N filter with an 4" mouth to go with my lightning MAF and get a 3" OD x 8" piece of aluminum tube to complete the intake.

My 4406 should be here Tuesday (WOOHOO!!!!!!) Then, time to install that.
 








justin146

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What is with the huge (4"?) 90 after the MAF? Why so large?
 




chriswells78

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Upsized cam, upsized injectors, roller rockers, headers, exhaust, needs more input to make use of all the outputs. I have ported the upper and lower intakes and added a 75mm Edelbrock TB, after that elbow it will reduce to 3" to match the TB (TB is actually 3.15 but good luck finding tubing that size.) I have a 90mm lightning MAF which = 4" and the tube matches it. It gets reduced to 3" after the elbow. The coupler also houses the IATS.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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justin146

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Upsized cam, upsized injectors, roller rockers, headers, exhaust, needs more input to make use of all the outputs. I have ported the upper and lower intakes and added a 75mm Edelbrock TB, after that elbow it will reduce to 3" to match the TB (TB is actually 3.15 but good luck finding tubing that size.) I have a 90mm lightning MAF which = 4" and the tube matches it. It gets reduced to 3" after the elbow. The coupler also houses the IATS.

The 90mm MAF will work fine I guess, but it is really overkill for your engine. I'd be worried about resolution issues.
 




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