HI, and questions......... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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HI, and questions.........

Hi,

My name is John. I am the owner of a street rod shop in Illinois. I have an extensive automotive background, but haven't messed with a 5.0 since my 5.0 HO Ranger project of about 10 years ago. I know technology has changed since then, so I am looking for advice on building a mild, but awesome looking 5.0 for a one-of-a-kind 1940 Ford Pickup. I just purchased a 1997 Explorer 5.0, complete less computer and MAF. This will be the basis of my powerplant. I am looking at the BBK SSI intake. This is quite an impressive looking manifold, but I've read bad things about them. How many people are using them, and are there any quirks? I have no hood clearance issues in this application, so I'm not worried about that. What would be a good cam to run with this intake? What about 1.7 rockers? I'm not looking for gobs of power, just want a nice running, show stopping engine.

On our show cars, we try to make the engine compartment as clean as possible. On our Tuned Port cars, I run Speed Density instead of MAF just because they are easier to "clean up". I have thoughts on hiding a MAF sensor if I need to, but I would REALLY rather go back to SD. Can the system be rewired to run the distributorless ignition with a SD computer, or will I need to run a distributor? If I go back to SD, is there a cam recommended for use with the SSI manifold? Again, what about 1.7 rockers? I understand that SD is more sensitve to cam changes, just trying to weigh my options before I finalize my buildup plans.

I will be running an AOD (or equivelant) with this combo. I don't have a problem using a higher stall convertor. I'm not sure of rearend ratio yet, probably somewhere in the 3.73 to 4.11 range depending on tire diameter. The exhaust will be coated (or stainless) headers, flowmasters, and piped either out the back, or through the running boards just ahead of the rear tires. If I decide to keep the current electrical system, where can I find a detailed schematic so I can modify the harness to fit it's new application? I think these are all of the questions I have for now, but I'm sure more will arise as the discussion goes on...

Thanks in advance!

John
 



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Welcome to this forum! If you will need to get engine or transmission parts powder coated, then contact JtSmith. He's an expert on this. As for the engine questions, contact 410Fortune or JTSmith.
 






John,
If you go with speed density on the above application, I would be leary of adding any performance parts. The stock Ford EEC-iv computer gets real upset with minimal mods in earlier (non-MAF meter) systems. Unlike the GM sd systems, the Fords have eliminated the map sensor when they went to the MAF, therefore making the MAF meter the sole sensor for load determination. I recommend running a MAF meter because the driveability will be better and not only that you won't have to have "seasonal tunes" due to the engine being able to determine the actual load via the MAF meter. I currently tune Ford and GM's using SCT and HP tuners, I never eliminate the MAF on GM vehicles and always get positive reports stating that the driveability is better than tuned in speed density. I actually tuned a 2000 6.0L turbocharged Silverado,yesterday. This vehicle has a 6.0L swap,GT-67 turbo,etc. I tuned the vehicle with the MAF meter. Driveability is excellent.

If you are considering taking a latemodel fuel injection initially set up with a MAF meter and eliminating the meter, then you will be asking for major problems. Any Ford fuel injection which was originally designed for a MAF meter will just about be impossible to tune without this very important meter. In Ford fuel injection the MAF meter is the most important sensor in the entire system. This sensor determines load, spark tables, fueling, etc. If you are considering running any type of factory Ford fuel injection system then a MAF meter is a must. Please don't be confused the the misconceptions that the MAF meter is a restriction. I offer BA-series meters which can flow up to 2800 kg/hr (around 850hp- I am aware of one running a BA-series meter which made around 1400hp).
 






Thanks for the replies! JAH, I understand the differences between SD and MAF, and how each sytem works. I have worked with both before. Both can have their advantages and downfalls. I am asking from an aesthetics point of view. The MAF can be ugly and hard to hide on a pre-50's vehicle. If the SSI manifold will work with an SD setup, AESTHETICALLY, this would be the best way to go. If I need to change the cam to an earlier SD style (or compatible), that would be ok. This will NOT be an everyday driver, more of a weekend driver at best. At have done the EFI swaps before, just looking for options from a GROUP of minds, instead of mine. I built a 5.0 Ranger about 10 years ago, my son drives a Tuned Port `77 Nova Rally, other son drives an `77 Skylark with an injected 455 (both were first cars built by us). Last year I built a `48 Chevy pickup with a Tuned Port engine.

John
 






Thanks for the replies! JAH, I understand the differences between SD and MAF, and how each sytem works. I have worked with both before. Both can have their advantages and downfalls. I am asking from an aesthetics point of view. The MAF can be ugly and hard to hide on a pre-50's vehicle. If the SSI manifold will work with an SD setup, AESTHETICALLY, this would be the best way to go. If I need to change the cam to an earlier SD style (or compatible), that would be ok. This will NOT be an everyday driver, more of a weekend driver at best. At have done the EFI swaps before, just looking for options from a GROUP of minds, instead of mine. I built a 5.0 Ranger about 10 years ago, my son drives a Tuned Port `77 Nova Rally, other son drives an `77 Skylark with an injected 455 (both were first cars built by us). Last year I built a `48 Chevy pickup with a Tuned Port engine.

John


You could run the intake pipe to a fender (CAI style) and put the MAF in the fender.
 






Justin,

That is one thing I have considered. I have also thought of "hiding" the MAF inside air cleaner. I'm not sure if this would create any turbulence in the intake system or not. Just another idea.
 






The "in the fender MAF" is probably the most cost effective solution in my opinion.

If money isn't an option, you could buy the MAF that works best for the engine, and then have a custom housing made with the same DIA. Just an expensive thought...

I've got the picture that the main concern is looks.
 






Other questions.....

The "in the fender MAF" may be the best alternative. It might be unavoidable. SInce I do not have a MAF, what years/vehicles are compatible? Is there a 2wd trans that will plug into the wiring harness, or is a non-electronic AOD my only option? What about computer? I've been browsing the posts, and I keep hearing of PATS. Is there a way to wire this engine without it?

Thank you all for your input. It really is appreciated.

John
 






The "in the fender MAF" may be the best alternative. It might be unavoidable. SInce I do not have a MAF, what years/vehicles are compatible? Is there a 2wd trans that will plug into the wiring harness, or is a non-electronic AOD my only option? What about computer? I've been browsing the posts, and I keep hearing of PATS. Is there a way to wire this engine without it?

Thank you all for your input. It really is appreciated.

John


I am pretty sure the MAF from the 96-early 98 Explorers are the same. The Explorer's computer controls a 4R70w- you'll need the SBF bellhoused version (not one from a 4.6 Mustang). I think the one from a 3.8 Mustang will bolt up too. The 97 model doesnt have PATS, so no worries there.
 






The ECM can be tuned to delete any controls that you don't want. PATS, and Transmission controls are just a click away from being deleted...

Ryan
 






Is there anyone on this board that programs ECM's? What cam, injectors should I run with the SSI manifold? Does anyone make "block hugger" headers for the GTP heads?

John
 






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