Hi I am blossom45 and the first time for me owner of a 96 ford explorer l | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Hi I am blossom45 and the first time for me owner of a 96 ford explorer l

Blossom45

Member
Joined
May 30, 2020
Messages
15
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City, State
Seattle WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96, explorer,
I just bought a 96 ford explorer and she's got a hiccup. She cranks but won't turn over. I checked the fuel pump and it's working battery is new and it's working so what next I have never owned a Ford explorer.
 



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Welcome to the forum. First things to check for are proper fuel pressure & for spark at the plugs.
 






Fuel, spark and air/oxygen all arriving at the proper time and the engine will run. You need to figure out which you are missing. Likely this will be fuel or spark, but the air filter is easy to check. Fuel pressure, measured at the fuel rail port with a gauge, should around 35 PSI on a '96. Spark can be tested using a spare spark plug attached to any convenient plug wire and grounded to the engine or neg side of the battery.
 






Did it run when you bought it and now doesn't?
 






OP, If the truck didn't run when you bought it, it's likely the fuel pump is bad and/or the injectors may be clogged due to old/bad fuel. Was the truck sitting for a long time not running before you bought it?
 






OP, If the truck didn't run when you bought it, it's likely the fuel pump is bad and/or the injectors may be clogged due to old/bad fuel. Was the truck sitting for a long time not running before you bought it?
I believe so but from the paperwork it had one owner not sure how it ended up at this carlot even
 






Did it run when you bought it and now doesn't?
Yes it was running good then about 36 hours later it was parked at my job and hasn't started since.
 






I believe so but from the paperwork it had one owner not sure how it ended up at this carlot even

Having one owner isn't really of any help. As you stated it was "running good" when you first got it, my guess is the fuel pump is bad. I'm guessing you bought it as-is, which means no warranty, but even if this the case I'd contact the car lot manager and see if he'll do anything to help you out.
 






My two cents: if your fuel pump, fuel lines, and spark plugs and wires all check out fine, you might still need to replace your coil packs. When I got my '99, all was fine and great for about two months, then one day I drove it to work and it wouldn't start when I left. It would crank all day, but it wouldn't start (no spark). The hand of God provided a random passerby who actually had a spare one in his garage at home (long story), which he sold me and installed right there. I didn't have an OBDII reader then, but if you get the $20 Oxgord from Amazon.com, you might be able to identify the cause of the problem easily without needing a shop (or a random passerby).
 






I just bought a 96 ford explorer and she's got a hiccup. She cranks but won't turn over. I checked the fuel pump and it's working battery is new and it's working so what next I have never owned a Ford explorer.
I sure hope it's a minor problem, like a defective crankshaft sensor causing no ignition or a tripped inertia switch disabling the fuel pump, but dying just 36 hours after it came off a lot sounds a bit suspicious. How did it run when you drove it? Did you sense anything wrong, check engine light on?
 






@Blossom45 - Warning: Do not buy parts w/out doing proper diagnostics. I never buy a part without knowing exactly what is need. It will just be a waste of money. It's called, "firing the parts cannon". Diagnosing a problem first, cost nothing but your time, then went you know what the problem is, buy the part needed to fix it and don't buy cheap Chinese junk parts. As someone here once said... "a poor man (or woman) can't afford no cheap parts". When you know what's needed, ask the forum for brand recommendations.

A few companies/brands to stay away from:
- Anything made in China (which is sometimes hard to do these days)
- Dorman
- AirTex
- Bosch spark plugs
- Fram filters
- Detroit Axle
- Advance Auto Parts manufactured parts
 






"Yes it was running good then about 36 hours later it was parked at my job and hasn't started since".
Common guys you know this is!!!
How about try to reset the roll over switch 1st.?
 






@Blossom45

A big "ATTA BOY" for @1998Exp &@Gary Crist for thinking outside of the box and bringing us back to basics!

That switch is in the cabin, on the Passenger Side, top right hand of the footwell by where the carpet stops.

You literally press the red button to reset it

Here's a bad quality short video that will give you a better idea - the location is at around the 45 second mark.

Video Link:
 






I sure hope it's a minor problem, like a defective crankshaft sensor causing no ignition or a tripped inertia switch disabling the fuel pump, but dying just 36 hours after it came off a lot sounds a bit suspicious. How did it run when you drove it? Did you sense anything wrong, check engine light on?
Yes the check engine light was on and the check gages light was on and I did notice a whining sound when your on the freeway but the transmission seemed great but when you take your foot off the gas going over 50 it makes that whining sound but I asked the car lot and they said it's overdrive had a sticking problem but other than that she drove like a champ . I put a new fuel filter in, no start so I tried some starter fluid and it started right up for about ten seconds and died then wouldn't start again without the starter fluid.
 






"Yes it was running good then about 36 hours later it was parked at my job and hasn't started since".
Common guys you know this is!!!
How about try to reset the roll over switch 1st.?
Ok where exactly is it located. I did try the starter fluid and it started for a few seconds then cut off and wouldn't start without starter fluid but it doesn't stay running.
 






Ok where exactly is it located. I did try the starter fluid and it started for a few seconds then cut off and wouldn't start without starter fluid but it doesn't stay running.
It's the same thing that I called inertia switch and someone else "rollover switch." fast_dave posted a video here, just last night, to illustrate where it is. Your truck is quite clearly starved for fuel, so worth a shot. Did you hit anything or shook the truck for some reason before it refused to start? If not, there are other reasons for the fuel pump not running. Could be as simple as the fuel pump relay - in the black box under the hood. Not sure about your 1996, but usually attached to the driver side inside fender, just behind the firewall, close to the master brake cylinder. There are many fuses and several relays inside. On my 1998 it's in position #5. You can swap it with the A/C relay, position #1 to check. But if you can hear the pump running briefly when you turn the key on, it's getting juice, so time to check fuel pressure to see if it's doing anything. Good luck!

And by the way, never take the word of a used car lot owner for anything other than how much he wants for the vehicle. Next time, before you buy spend $100-$200 on a decent mechanic's inspection - unless they want less than $1000, which will tell you that it's probably not even worth the inspection.
 






Ok where exactly is it located. I did try the starter fluid and it started for a few seconds then cut off and wouldn't start without starter fluid but it doesn't stay running.

@Blossom45

Post 13 of this thread.

It might help you if you view this thread from a computer (large screen).

Also, in Post 16 of this thread, @1998Exp gave you some great advice. The Fuel Pump Relay can be exchanged with the A/C Relay.

Look - Start from the beginning - Stage 1 - and get back to us:
Follow the sequence of these instructions to a "T": In a silent environment, with you in the cabin and the drivers side door closed, and the driver window open, put your head out the driver side as at the same time you turn the key all the way forward to the on position (the last position before turning the engine over).

When the key is in the "on" position, if your fuel pump is getting power and operating, you should hear a faint "whirring" from the rear of the truck for about 3 seconds. That whirring noise would be your fuel pump priming the fuel system. You can cycle the key between off and on a few times (meaning not starting the truck), and if all is well, each time you cycle the key, you should hear the fuel pump "whirr" for approximately 3 seconds and prime the fuel system.

Is your fuel pump whirring?
 






@Blossom45

Post 13 of this thread.

It might help you if you view this thread from a computer (large screen).

Also, in Post 16 of this thread, @1998Exp gave you some great advice. The Fuel Pump Relay can be exchanged with the A/C Relay.

Look - Start from the beginning - Stage 1 - and get back to us:
Follow the sequence of these instructions to a "T": In a silent environment, with you in the cabin and the drivers side door closed, and the driver window open, put your head out the driver side as at the same time you turn the key all the way forward to the on position (the last position before turning the engine over).

When the key is in the "on" position, if your fuel pump is getting power and operating, you should hear a faint "whirring" from the rear of the truck for about 3 seconds. That whirring noise would be your fuel pump priming the fuel system. You can cycle the key between off and on a few times (meaning not starting the truck), and if all is well, each time you cycle the key, you should hear the fuel pump "whirr" for approximately 3 seconds and prime the fuel system.

Is your fuel pump whirring?
Yes the fuel pump is whirring
 






Yes the check engine light was on and the check gages light was on and I did notice a whining sound when your on the freeway but the transmission seemed great but when you take your foot off the gas going over 50 it makes that whining sound but I asked the car lot and they said it's overdrive had a sticking problem but other than that she drove like a champ . I put a new fuel filter in, no start so I tried some starter fluid and it started right up for about ten seconds and died then wouldn't start again without the starter fluid.
CEL (check engine light) may or may not be a clue to what's going on. Get a friend with a scanner, or invest the $20, read the stored codes and report here. What's possibly more worrisome is the "check gauge" light. That light is to grab your attention so you take a look at the gauges - guess you didn't. Might have just been low on gas or poor electrical charging, but perhaps very low oil pressure or overheated - neither good and might indicate that you were sold a dud -- I hope not... There might be a clue in the amount you paid.
 



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Yes the fuel pump is whirring

@Blossom45

OK - you can hear the fuel pump turbine whirring -this is good news :bounce:

So, when you put the new fuel filter in, did you notice that there is an ARROW on the side of it?

The arrow should be pointing towards the front of the truck.

Go back underneath and if you can't see the arrow, you should be able to spin/rotate the fuel filter until you see it.

Report back.
 






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