HID Install +Pics - Step by Step

[Motoarzan]

Hi All.
I finally installed my HID kit today and thought I'd post some step by step pics. I installed these on my 2014 Explorer Sport.

I purchased the Coolbulbs kit with the newer electronic ballasts and 6000k color temperature. Part# G1K-9005. I picked these because after all my forum research they seemed to be the ones that nobody had any issues with and got great customer service. These ones also don't require any special time delay relay and they are all plug and play and relatively easy to install. The ballasts themselves are also fairly small and compact.

Please note. The passenger side is easy, the driver side is a pain in the [MENTION=127576]ss[/MENTION] and has little room to get at it. You might require the help of your wife, daughter or someone else with small hands to get that bulb out.
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STEP#1. FIRST OFF - IF YOU'RE A CANADIAN. GET YOU DEALER TO PROGRAM YOUR DRL'S TO BE ON THE YELLOW MARKER LIGHTS INSTEAD OF YOUR HEADLIGHTS. IF YOU DON'T YOU MAY HAVE PROBLEMS WITH YOUR HID'S AND CERTAINLY REDUCED LONGEVITY BEING ON ALL THE TIME. THE PROGRAMMING IS A SIMPLY TASK BY A TECHNICIAN CONNECTING A LAPTOP TO THE VEHICLE AND YES, IT CAN BE DONE. SEE OTHER THREADS ON THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS.
OH, AND IF YOU'RE CANADIAN DON'T FORGET TO START WITH A TIM HORTON'S COFFEE. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT IS -1 DEG. CELCIUS WHERE I AM TODAY. FOR THE AMERICAN FOLKS YOU MAY WANT TO CHOOSE A DUNKIN DONUTS OR STARBUCKS

LOCATE THE DUST COVER AND REMOVE.

START CUTTING A SMALL HOLE IN THE BOOT

TRIM IT LARGER AND LARGER UNTIL THE DESIRED SIZE IS ACHIEVED.

LAY OUT YOU COOL BULB KIT ONLY ONE SIDE BULB AND BALLAST FOR NOW.

FEED WIRES THROUGH CUT OUT HOLE IN BOOT. NOTICE THE DIRECTION THE BOOT IS FACING IN RELATION TO THE BULB SIDE.

WORK THE RUBBER GROMMET PART OF THE WIRE HARNESS INTO AND OVER YOUR HOLE TO MAKE A PERFECT SEAL.

LOCATE THE BULB IN THE HOUSING BEHIND THE RUBBER BOOT. DISCONNECT THE CONNECTOR FROM THE BULB, ROTATE 90 DEGREES. AND REMOVE. ON THE DRIVER SIDE, THIS IS WHERE YOU MIGHT NEED HELP WITH SOME LITTLE HANDS.
THE CONNECTOR WILL BE SOMEWHAT RECESSED DOWN BELOW BUTT ONCE THE BULB IS OUT YOU CAN PULL IT UP AND OUT A BIT AS SHOWN IN PIC BELOW.

CONNECT HID HARNESS/CONNECTOR TO THE CONNECTOR THAT WAS ORIGINALLY ATTACHED THE THE FACTORY BULB.

REMOVE BULB FROM PROTECTIVE CLEAR COVER AND INSTALL INTO HOUSING. PUSH IN AND ROTATE BACK 90DEG TO SECURE IT. MAKE SURE TO PUT EACH BULB INTO THE HOUSING IN THE SAME ORIENTATION. I INSERTED IT SO THAT ONCE ROTATED INTO POSITION THE GLASS PART OF THE BULB WOULD BE AT THE TOP. I FIGURE THIS MIGHT LOWER THE CUT-OFF, OF THE BEAM THROUGH THE PROJECTOR.

TUCK WIRES AND CONNECTOR BACK INTO HOUSING AND PUT BOOT BACK ON. YOU CAN ALSO SLIDE THE INDIVIDUAL WIRES THOUGH THE GROMMET TO REDUCE THE SLACK AND TIGHTEN THEM UP.

NOW. CONNECT THE 3 REMAINING CONNECTORS TO THE BALLAST AND IGNITER.

NOW. REPEAT ALL THE ABOVE STEPS FOR THE OTHER SIDE LIGHT.
ALSO DON'T ZIP TIE ALL THE WIRES AND TUCK AWAY THE BALLASTS YET. LEAVE THEM SITTING AND FIRST TURN ON AND TEST THAT THE LIGHTS WORK. IF THEY DON'T CHANCES ARE YOU HAVE A POLARITY ISSUE. MINE DID!! SIMPLY TURN THE CONNECTOR AROUND.

NOTICE THE NOTCH ON THE TOP, AND THE HOOK ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CONNECTORS. I TURNED THEM AROUND TO CHANGE THE POLARITY (THE CONNECTORS WILL STILL MATE IN REVERSE ORIENTATION, YOU JUST WON'T HAVE THE NOTCH AND HOOK LOCKED TOGETHER BECAUSE THEY'RE ON OPPOSITE SIDES NOW). I ONLY DID THIS BECAUSE I WAS TOO LAZY TO REMOVE AND SWITCH THE INDIVIDUAL PINS IN BODY OF THE CONNECTOR.

EVEN THOUGH THE CONNECTOR IS REVERSED AND NO NOTCH AND HOOK HOLDING THEM TOGETHER THEY ARE STILL PRETTY SNUG. I SIMPLY WRAPPED THE WHOLE CONNECTION IN ELECTRICAL TAPE TO BE SURE THEY ARE SECURE.

CHECK THAT YOUR LIGHTS WORK NOW. YES!!!

NOW YOU CAN THINK ABOUT TUCKING AWAY THE BALLAST IGNITER AND CABLES. CLEAN THE AREA WHERE YOU WILL STICK YOUR BALLAST WITH ALCOHOL. I CHOSE HERE!

ATTACH PROVIDED 3M TAPE TO BALLAST.

ATTACH 3M TAPE TO IGNITER. I PICKED THIS STUFF UP AT AN AUTOMOTIVE STORE.

THIS IS HOW AND WHERE I STUCK MINE ON DRIVER SIDE.

AND, PASSENGER SIDE SIMILAR.

PUT YOUR FACTORY BULBS BACK IN THE HID BULB COVERS FOR BACKUP.

ENJOY YOUR LIGHTS. THESE ARE AWESOME AND I LOVE THE CRISP 6000K COLOR. WAY, WAY BRIGHTER AND WHITER THAN STOCK.

 

[s1000rr]

agreed, driver side was a pain in the a.. for me as well. heard good reviews from coolbulbs.
ive always used ddm tuning and never had any issues with them either.

 

[Motoarzan]

The one thing I liked about the cool bulbs was that rubber grommet that makes and excellent seal over the cut hole in the boot. Also if you look at the connectors they are good quality ribbed rubber gaskets on them to ensure making a water tight seal. This kit IMO is really good quality.

I think I have to do the fog lights now! I'm just debating on whether to get the HID fogs or the new LED fogs that coolbulbs is now offering.
The HID is brighter (but not sure if that would end up being too much light) but, the LED, although not as bright will last for decades well beyond the vehicle life. The LED's give the same 6k color temperature.

Anyone who has installed HID in the fogs, do you have any idea of.
1. Approx life of the bulbs.
2. The brightness? Is it too much with the headlight HID's and harsh on on-coming drivers, or would be ok being toned down a bit if I were to use the less brighter LED?
3. Are the fogs installation a lot easier or harder to get at that the headlights?

 

[titanium]

just installed 6000k hid in fogs and headlights. I have a dlr kit but im not going to use it. Im just going to take to the dealer to change dlr's to the park lights. The fogs dont look to be too offensive to oncoming traffic, however the issue I have is my headlights need to be aimed now. They both shine off to the right since the hid install.

 

[peterk9]

just installed 6000k hid in fogs and headlights. I have a dlr kit but im not going to use it. Im just going to take to the dealer to change dlr's to the park lights. The fogs dont look to be too offensive to oncoming traffic, however the issue I have is my headlights need to be aimed now. They both shine off to the right since the hid install.

Welcome to the Forum titanium.:wavey:
You could well be our first member from Brockville. For your information, the headlights can not be aimed horizontally, only vertically.
See page 357 of your Owner's Guide.

Note: It would be helpful for the members if you added the model to your profile so that it shows in the left margin. Not all models have the same issues or resolutions.

Peter

 

[Sgt1411]

Very nice job on the step by step guide to the HID install.

BTW they have Tim Horton's in the US now.

 

[Sgt1411]

I wanted to ask one of the electrical engineers before I attempted this mod and here is what I got back.

Ford does not make a High Intensity Discharge ‘upgrade’ kit for base Halogen equipped vehicles. There are many things (including regulations) are different that preclude such an upgrade..

The Automotive Aftermarket sells conversion HID kits. You lose Auto High Beam Function and the Unfiltered High Voltage AC can wreak havoc in the base vehicle electronics.

To Compare the Two Lighting Systems:


Halogen
12 VDC
No Ballast
High Beam:
Separate Filament



HID
48-90 VAC
Requires Ballast
High Beam:
Internal Shutter

 

[.:TF:.]

The one thing I liked about the cool bulbs was that rubber grommet that makes and excellent seal over the cut hole in the boot. Also if you look at the connectors they are good quality ribbed rubber gaskets on them to ensure making a water tight seal. This kit IMO is really good quality.

I think I have to do the fog lights now! I'm just debating on whether to get the HID fogs or the new LED fogs that coolbulbs is now offering.
The HID is brighter (but not sure if that would end up being too much light) but, the LED, although not as bright will last for decades well beyond the vehicle life. The LED's give the same 6k color temperature.

Anyone who has installed HID in the fogs, do you have any idea of.
1. Approx life of the bulbs.
2. The brightness? Is it too much with the headlight HID's and harsh on on-coming drivers, or would be ok being toned down a bit if I were to use the less brighter LED?
3. Are the fogs installation a lot easier or harder to get at that the headlights?

Unless you're installing them for purely aesthetic reasons I wouldn't bother with LEDs for the foglights. They might look good but even the high wattage CREE bulbs don't provide as much forward light as even the standard halogens. If you're looking to upgrade for improved light output go with HIDs.

 

[Motoarzan]

I wanted to ask one of the electrical engineers before I attempted this mod and here is what I got back.

Ford does not make a High Intensity Discharge ‘upgrade’ kit for base Halogen equipped vehicles. There are many things (including regulations) are different that preclude such an upgrade..

The Automotive Aftermarket sells conversion HID kits. You lose Auto High Beam Function and the Unfiltered High Voltage AC can wreak havoc in the base vehicle electronics.

I didn't know my Sport had auto high beam but even if it does I'm willing to trade it away (and manually control it) to get 3X brighter whiter light output when driving at night which is much safer IMO.

As far as the base electronics comment from Ford. Hundreds of people on here alone have upgraded to aftermarket kits I haven't heard of one stating the kit screwed up other vehicle electrical systems. The limited in Canada comes with HID and US models have the upgrade available so don't see how HID could pose a problem to vehicle electronics.
I think perhaps because Ford can't "control" the various low, mid & high level of quality kits out there, they can't endorse or support them...and mainly for legal or vehicle warranty purposes.

I believe with HID, the voltage is boosted by the ballasts and the actual current draw for the lights/system is actually "less" than with halogens!

 

[DubbsFaris]

I upgraded my GT500 foglights to HID, and now they are useless for Fog lights, and blind oncoming drivers if I use them any other time. Sure, it looks cool to have matching light colors and intensities if you are looking at the front of the vehicle, but I will be switching mine back so I have "functioning" foglights. Just a FYI for those that might not have thought that all the way through.

 

[peterk9]

I didn't know my Sport had auto high beam but even if it does I'm willing to trade it away (and manually control it) to get 3X brighter whiter light output when driving at night which is much safer IMO.

I think the first step I would have taken to achieve better lighting would be to replace the bulbs. I replaced the bulbs in my '09 Highlander with Philips X-treme Power Bulbs and they were just as good as the HID I have now in my Limited. I do a fair amount of 'country' driving and that is what I based my opinion on.

Very nice step by step instructions BTW.

Peter

 

[Sgt1411]

I agree with most here the SPORT should have OEM HID's.

My next step will be to upgrade the OEM bulbs as PeterK9 pointed out.

To each his own I guess.

 

[avg2424]

I upgraded my GT500 foglights to HID, and now they are useless for Fog lights, and blind oncoming drivers if I use them any other time. Sure, it looks cool to have matching light colors and intensities if you are looking at the front of the vehicle, but I will be switching mine back so I have "functioning" foglights. Just a FYI for those that might not have thought that all the way through.

The key is to get the right bulbs.
Retrofit has nice kits that I've used on my cars and motorcycle. You need the correct hardware to produce the cutoff, otherwise you are projecting the wrong beam pattern. Especially if the bulb isn't lighting EXACTLY where the old filament was.

I think the original poster did a great job, but I would have at least gotten a true dual beam kit (electro-magnetic actuators, not a piggy back halogen). Now he has no highbeam. Also, most new kits have the ballast and igniter in one piece. Much better imo.
Don't mean to sound critical, great job, just my 2 cents.

Also, the poster that suggested issues may be caused by HID, if you are really worried about your electrical system, put a capacitor (filter) in place, but a well built kit doesn't harm anything.

 

[peterk9]

Also, the poster that suggested issues may be caused by HID, if you are really worried about your electrical system, put a capacitor (filter) in place, but a well built kit doesn't harm anything.

It wasn't actually the posters concern. He was just passing on what the Ford engineers told him.

Peter

 

[CreativeAVtech]

Although I haven't received my Sport yet, I am almost positive the factory setup uses shutters for high/lo beam since it is using a 9005 bulb (which is single filament).

 

[avg2424]

It wasn't actually the posters concern. He was just passing on what the Ford engineers told him.

Peter

If you must ask the engineers, certainly there is a concern. He might have been worried about the electrical system when he asked, but possibly after their response.

Although I haven't received my Sport yet, I am almost positive the factory setup uses shutters for high/lo beam since it is using a 9005 bulb (which is single filament).

If this is true, then I take back my comment about the dual beam and having no highbeams. I haven't removed my bulbs to take a look at the bulb. I assumed they were a dual filament.

 

[Motoarzan]

I think the first step I would have taken to achieve better lighting would be to replace the bulbs. I replaced the bulbs in my '09 Highlander with Philips X-treme Power Bulbs and they were just as good as the HID I have now in my Limited. I do a fair amount of 'country' driving and that is what I based my opinion on.

Agree, those Philips Extreme and even the Sylvania Silver Star Ultra type bulbs are a huge improvement on the stock lights. Usually about 50% brighter and whiter. I have the Silverstar Ultras in my Wife's Honda Pilot!

However; The Con is this. These bulbs typically achieve the higher intensity and whiter light by making the filaments thinner (less resistance = more current = brighter). The down side is the life is "hugely" reduced. even the graph or chart on the packaging shows they last maybe 25% as long as their regular bulbs!

Now, for Canadians where DRL's are law and usually on the headlights and on on all the time. So now these short lasting bulbs a double whammy for reduced life. If you look at the posted reviews for these lights on any Canadian Automotive store they will show not a single person gets more than 1.5 years out of them. Most will be lucky to get maybe 1 year. So $60 CDN for a set is a lot of money for bulbs every year or so.

What I did for my wife's Pilot is I pulled the fuse for the DRL circuit. Then Installed the Silverstar Ultras so I get some reasonable life out of them only being on at night time and then to make up for her not having DRL's on the headlights I purchased and installed the Philips 5LED DRL lights which are on all the time but the moment you turn on the headlight these shut off.

I may consider the Silverstar ultras in the fogs instead of HID for my Sport since they aren't on all the time and will last a while.

 

[peterk9]

Agree, those Philips Extreme and even the Sylvania Silver Star Ultra type bulbs are a huge improvement on the stock lights. Usually about 50% brighter and whiter. I have the Silverstar Ultras in my Wife's Honda Pilot!

However; The Con is this. These bulbs typically achieve the higher intensity and whiter light by making the filaments thinner (less resistance = more current = brighter). The down side is the life is "hugely" reduced. even the graph or chart on the packaging shows they last maybe 25% as long as their regular bulbs!

Now, for Canadians where DRL's are law and usually on the headlights and on on all the time. So now these short lasting bulbs a double whammy for reduced life. If you look at the posted reviews for these lights on any Canadian Automotive store they will show not a single person gets more than 1.5 years out of them. Most will be lucky to get maybe 1 year. So $60 CDN for a set is a lot of money for bulbs every year or so.

What I did for my wife's Pilot is I pulled the fuse for the DRL circuit. Then Installed the Silverstar Ultras so I get some reasonable life out of them only being on at night time and then to make up for her not having DRL's on the headlights I purchased and installed the Philips 5LED DRL lights which are on all the time but the moment you turn on the headlight these shut off.

I may consider the Silverstar ultras in the fogs instead of HID for my Sport since they aren't on all the time and will last a while.

Agreed on the shorter life expectancy.
Also, I lease my vehicle so I don't/can't make huge changes to them.

Peter

 

[peterk9]

If you must ask the engineers, certainly there is a concern. He might have been worried about the electrical system when he asked, but possibly after their response.

Sgt1411 was asking the engineers about whether Ford had an HID kit for upgrading the OEM headlights. The possibility of this 'kit' was brought up by another member but he wasn't sure if it actually existed so Sgt1411 said he would look into it. The reply from the engineers included the concern that we are talking about.

Peter

 

[avg2424]

Peter,

I wanted to ask one of the electrical engineers before I attempted this mod and here is what I got back.

I looked at this thread again and didn't see anyone asking about an oem hid kit.
I understand that his post had the ford response in it. He seemed to be asking for himself, not for another member.
Only the sarge knows what his post meant. I was just providing info for anyone with concerns about putting HID in.
Since the sarge said he wanted to ask one of the electrical engineers, I assumed he had a concern regarding his electrical system. This assumption seems confirmed based on his following post about switching bulbs rather than going HID.

I agree with most here the SPORT should have OEM HID's.

My next step will be to upgrade the OEM bulbs as PeterK9 pointed out.

To each his own I guess.

Sgt1411,
I would pull the trigger on HIDs. Those replacement bulbs wont last. They burn out quick. Retrofit has lifetime warranty on bulbs and ballasts.
Also, I wouldn't trust the response from ford. They don't know their own product. They said the halogen has two filaments and no internal shutter, that is wrong for your 2013.