Nice now does anyone think not changing this check valve would make a.c.compressor give up and leak Freon everywhere right at the compressor is where it just blew out one hot California day.
The check valve (1 way valve) allows the vacuum reservoir to hold the heater control valve open at wot or heavy throttle. You need to reinstall it to original position, otherwise the heater control valve will not function. (no heat)
Just like @Rcflyer330 said a clogged fuel filter could be the culprit if you haven't already fixed the issue. My CEL kept popping on when I would drive over 60mph and the code it kept throwing was for a "small evap leak". I changed the fuel filter and it hasn't popped back on, I bought the vehicle at 72000 mi and changed the filter at 90k. I don't know if it ever had been done before that.I was going reading through this thread and I thought I saw a solution but I will post up my problem ..dont scold me if I duplicate.
I have a 2006 Mercury Mountaineer V6 AWD. The problem I'm having is when I'm driving -- over 50 mph I hear like air rushing or being sucked into something.. it is coming from under the hood. If stop on a hill and then try to start moving again it takes a looooong time to climb the hill, feels like it is struggling and does not have much power. I took it to the mechanic and some work was done on it... it was working fine now the problem is back again. Also when the problem was fixed the gas pedal was tight - I had to apply a descent amount of pressure on the pedal. When I pressed on the pedal the car would fly up hills even if I stopped and then accelerated from a stopped position on the hill. When the car was without the hissing sound driving on leveled roads highways and city was great. I was able to feel the power. This was great but short lived. With the problem back the gas pedal does not feel tight... by that I mean I press the gas pedal and it goes almost to the floor.
Also the engine light would come on when I accelerate fast and hard or if im going up a hill at a fast speed. The light would stay on for two to three days and go out. If I accelerate up a hill or drive on highway for a long way the engine light would come. Then three days later it would go out.....and this keeps on repeating..
I had Autozone check the codes for me... one time it was a P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
Another time the code generated was for a faulty oxygen sensor.
Then yet another time I took it to a mechanic and he said the code generated meant i needed a new Throttle Body.... So i'm hesitant to throw money and it could be something simple....
Anyone has any ideas??
I noticed someone mentioned the Vaccum Check Valve could that cause an issue like that? And if so would any generic Vaccum Check Valve work or should I try for MotorCraft?
I just starting to read and learn about cars so forgive my car ignorance.....
Thanks in advance!!
On my 2009 the line was so brittle it kept breaking so I bought the whloe harness from Ford for $38Been looking all over the place for this vacuum hose part # or diameter so I can replace.
Mine was brittle and cracked while flushing my heater core.
Does anyone know the part number for 2009 explorer v6? or even just the diameter so I can patch with some hose?
Yes that is the new part number the part number I gave you was off the harness and the part number you have is the newThank you I was able to find another part # 6L2Z-9E498-A from searching the part you gave me.
Tube Assembly - Ford (6L2Z-9E498-A) | NewAutoParts
and then found another thread with some additional information
Vacuum harness part number....need help!!! engine light on with wrench
I was able to do a quick patch job while I wait for the part to come. While I was fixing another line from the harness cracked
I dont know if removing the glovebox will give any better access but if the check valve doesnt work and you want to try its really easy to drop the box door down. Open the glove box and empty it, now on each side of the glovebox there is a tab that you need to get past the dash and the box will drop down.To do this just press inward on each side of the plastic box and the door will drop down.Just noticed the hiss today on my '07 Mountaineer with auto climate control. Will try the check valve and replace if needed. If it is good, I guess I will go under the dash. Does taking out the glove box make the work under the dash easier? If so, is it easy to get glove box out. I am no longer a contortionist.
Thanks for the info. Actually, after I posted yesterday, I did buy the Motorcraft check valve off Amazon. $8.00 and will be here Sunday.I dont know if removing the glovebox will give any better access but if the check valve doesnt work and you want to try its really easy to drop the box door down. Open the glove box and empty it, now on each side of the glovebox there is a tab that you need to get past the dash and the box will drop down.To do this just press inward on each side of the plastic box and the door will drop down.
In all honesty if it was my car I would not even bother trying to test the check valve just replace it with a new one. It is a very common failure item and not that expencive. Plus thay can be hard to test by just blowing into it and seeing if air is escaping. What happens is they will pass the air test just fine but it is actually bad and needs replacement.
Hope that helps.