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Hitting 120K, need help with tune up parts list

njkev7

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999
Just picked up a 99 explorer sport 4.0 sohc and its super clean. So I want to do her right and tune her up. This is my first ford so I'm not sure the brands to use and the ones to stay away from. I did a search and I see alot a motorcraft parts but not sure if thats the way to go. Can I get some help with a parts list and brands. Also, should I go k&n filter? Thanks
 



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slaughterrt

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2011 Explorer XLT
I have a 4 door 1999 Explorer XLT with over 180,000 miles on it. I need to do a tune-up on mine as well. Last time I tuned it up, I did the spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter myself and take it to Meineke or Pep Boys for an oil change and oil filter.

My normal tune-up set up is:
Bosch Platinum 4 spark plugs
Bosch wireset
Fram air filter
Fram fuel filter

...however, I recently bought a performance air intake filter that I am going to install this weekend, so I am not running the stock air filter anymore...

In addition, it couldn't hurt to get an oil change done, as the actual labor price for it is dirt cheap (paying mostly for the oil anyway), high mileage synthetic oil for my ride + new oil filter.

Anyway, good luck with the tune-up and hope this helps. P.S. These brands are available at most auto stores.
 






techieman33

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I have a 4 door 1999 Explorer XLT with over 180,000 miles on it. I need to do a tune-up on mine as well. Last time I tuned it up, I did the spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter myself and take it to Meineke or Pep Boys for an oil change and oil filter.

My normal tune-up set up is:
Bosch Platinum 4 spark plugs
Bosch wireset
Fram air filter
Fram fuel filter

...however, I recently bought a performance air intake filter that I am going to install this weekend, so I am not running the stock air filter anymore...

In addition, it couldn't hurt to get an oil change done, as the actual labor price for it is dirt cheap (paying mostly for the oil anyway), high mileage synthetic oil for my ride + new oil filter.

Anyway, good luck with the tune-up and hope this helps. P.S. These brands are available at most auto stores.

Bosch and Fram are both crap parts. People have had those plugs fall apart after only a few miles, do not use them. Stick with the motorcraft or autolite plugs. If you search around on the forum for bosch or fram all your going to find is bad things.
 






slaughterrt

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Oh ok. I did not realize that since I have had no trouble whatsoever with them. I am not going to be using that air filter anymore, but I will try out the other plugs, wires, and fuel filter when I do my tune-up. Thanks techieman. I was wondering, will I notice any performance difference between the bosch and fram stuff that I am running now, and the other brand ones? Or is it just people's experiences?
 












njkev7

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So, if i wanted more performance, what should I use? I see taylor, ngk, denso cables and plugs. 8mm and 9mm in size. I'm so lost. not to be a pain. can i get alittle more detail.
 






mjbealer

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1999 eddie bauer
I use both ngk and denso plugs in my vehicles, both foreign and domestic. 8mm wires are more than enough for your 4.0 sohc. I usually will put in the platinum plugs if there is not a problem with fouling on the plugs that I pull out. that just gives me more time between having to do the job again. the motorcraft fuel filter is good though. installing a new high flow filter is also a good start. just be careful with the oil on the filter as too much oil will wreck your mass air flow sensor
 






GCDMD

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99 Limited V8
All good tips. I do my tune-ups with K&N oil filters and mobil 1. I used amsoil for a couple of years, but I couldn't tell any difference between mobil and amsoil in terms of mpg and smoothness of idle. Amsoil is great, but pricey.
I have used NGK, bosch and autolite plugs and have had great success with all three. I would stay away from the gimmicky 4+ or even 2 pronged bosch plugs, those never worked too well. I have read alot of negative things about bosch but I have never had any problems with them before, nor have I heard of any problems from those who have used them almost exclusively. Are autolites better??? They are OEM, but I question how "bad" bosch plugs really are.
Fram is crap. Won't argue that one.

For 120K:
New tensioners (front and rear)
New plugs/wires
New fuel filter (motorcraft seems to be great)
Maybe some fuel injector cleaner (why not??)
Synthetic oil change w/ quality filter
Install external transmission filter and drain plug

That'd be my recommendation.
Good luck on the new ride!!! :D :thumbsup:
 












njkev7

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So to play it safe I'm going with motorcraft or autolite for plugs, wires, fuel and oil filter. as for air filter, dropping in a K&N. Oil, I alway used GTX. Why stop now. Does it take 10-30 or 10-40?
 






GCDMD

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So to play it safe I'm going with motorcraft or autolite for plugs, wires, fuel and oil filter. as for air filter, dropping in a K&N. Oil, I alway used GTX. Why stop now. Does it take 10-30 or 10-40?

In winter, I use 5W30
In summer 10W40.
But now that I am in Nevada, I always use 10W40. :p:
 






jlsparky7

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All great advice people are giving here.

You could also run some seafoam. How to video in the link below.
 






Rage1973

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For 120K:
New tensioners (front and rear)
New plugs/wires
New fuel filter (motorcraft seems to be great)
Maybe some fuel injector cleaner (why not??)
Synthetic oil change w/ quality filter
Install external transmission filter and drain plug

Are you talking about timing chain tensioners? If so don't you need to remove the engine for that..... on a 4.0 SOHC eninge....lol..... Thanks in advance!
 






GCDMD

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Are you talking about timing chain tensioners? If so don't you need to remove the engine for that..... on a 4.0 SOHC eninge....lol..... Thanks in advance!

The tensioners do not require engine removal and can actually be done fairly easily. The front tensioner simply requires the removal of the upper intake (and also maybe connectors to the temperature sender/sensor (can't remember now, it has been a while). The rear can be done in about 15 seconds, just remove the inner wheel well cover on the front passenger tire. Once removed, you should be able to see the tensioner and replace it with relative ease. Have you had the timing chain apparatus replaced at all or is it all original???
 






njkev7

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I have another question. Since I got the car used and I don’t know the repair history. I might as well change the fluids. My 99 sport is part time 4wd so beside transmission fluid what else do I need to change. Do the transfer case and differentials get anything? Also, what are you guys using? This truck got to last me so I prefer to pay a little now than a lot later.
 






GCDMD

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I have another question. Since I got the car used and I don’t know the repair history. I might as well change the fluids. My 99 sport is part time 4wd so beside transmission fluid what else do I need to change. Do the transfer case and differentials get anything? Also, what are you guys using? This truck got to last me so I prefer to pay a little now than a lot later.

Well, you could also change the power steering fluid, do a coolant flush and change the fluid in your transfercase. I wouldn't necessarily change out the diff fluid if it isn't leaking or isn't making noise, but some do advocate doing that. I guess I have just been lucky with diffs.
The transfercase has a plug on the side, if you remove the plug and feel inside with your finger then you should feel the fluid right at the bottom of the plug (to the brim of the drain plug). If it is low, then I would simply replenish. Some people siphon out the old fluid and replenish with fresh fluid. This probably does help, but at your mileage I wouldn't even worry about it. Just make sure the fluid is up to the proper level.
Power steering fluid is easy- just use a turkey baster to remove as much fluid as possible in the reservoir and replenish with fresh fluid. It will take 5 or so times of this to actually swap out the majority of the old fluid, and even then you will still have some residual. That's OK, as long as you have mostly fresh fluid and proper level- that should be enough.
Coolant flush- I'd do a back flush (I know prestone makes a great T connector that facilitates this process). Again, replenish with fresh fluids and bam! You're good.
Check the chassis lubrication...other than that, I think you're good to go.
Good luck!
 






njkev7

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What fluids are best to do these jobs:
powersteering
coolant
transfercase
diff
chassis
 






Rage1973

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The tensioners do not require engine removal and can actually be done fairly easily. The front tensioner simply requires the removal of the upper intake (and also maybe connectors to the temperature sender/sensor (can't remember now, it has been a while). The rear can be done in about 15 seconds, just remove the inner wheel well cover on the front passenger tire. Once removed, you should be able to see the tensioner and replace it with relative ease. Have you had the timing chain apparatus replaced at all or is it all original???

I have done timing belts and chains before, but never on my Explorer...lol... I have heard some stories of people having to remove the engine to replace them. I just don't have a place to get it done. It is something that I would like to do though.
 



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njkev7

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Just did the tune up on my 99 sport and it feels better. This is what went in: Napa Belden Wires, fuel filter, air filter, pcv and Motorcraft platinum spark plugs, synthetic blend oil and oil filter. After all that I noticed two things. One is sometimes the idle is a bit jumpy and the RPMs goes a bit low. I asked my mechanic and he said that normal for ford trucks. Second I started hearing a clicking noise every 5 to 10 seconds. I popped the hood and notice that the AC Clutch was going on and off (note: it doesn’t do it with the ac off). My questions are is it normal for the truck to be a bit jumpy and what do I do about the ac clutch.
 






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