Homelink, Maplights and Vanity lights not working

[ejkob]

I have searched for an answer to this problem and find bits and pieces. I just purchased a 2008 EB Explorer and once I got it home found out that the vanity lights, the map lights and homelink does not work. The only time the map lights work is when to door is open, or if I move the dimmer switch to the on position. I did have a broken vanity light but have since replaced it. I have not traced any wiring yet but am wondering how to know if FORD has to reset the system for the lights to work again. The smart junction box seems to be ok and when I pull the fuse to check the system, you can hear a relay operate when the fuse is put back in. Is there a wiring diagram that I can get ahold of to check the wiring? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Ornery]

Pinpoint Test A: The Courtesy Lamps Are Inoperative

Normal Operation

Power is supplied to the courtesy lamps through the
smart junction box (SJB) fuse 23 (15A), which
supplies voltage to the courtesy lamps/demand
lamps solid-state relay in the SJB. When any door,
liftgate or liftgate glass is opened, the ajar switch
opens, signaling the SJB. The SJB monitors the ajar
circuits, and based on the ajar status, the SJB will
energize the solid-state relay supplying voltage to
the courtesy lamps on circuit CLN03 (YE/GY).
Ground for the courtesy lamps is supplied through
either circuit GD133 (BK) or circuit GD149 (BK/GY).​

Possible Causes

• Fuse
• Circuit CLN01 (GN/VT) short to ground
• Circuit CLN03 (YE/GY) open or short to ground
• Circuit CLN15 (GY/YE) short to ground
• SJB​

To be continued... (It's pizza movie night!)

 

[Ornery]

Interior Lighting: THE COURTESY LAMPS ARE INOPERATIVE

 

[ejkob]

Thanks for the information. I know the SJB is the fuse block under the drivers side dash, but how do you get to the connections for testing? Better yet, how do you even remove the SJB should it need replaced? Thanks

 

[Ornery]

SJB Removal

Probe the back side of the connectors. If you do have to get at the SJB, Quinn has a quicker method:

You don't have to take half of that stuff off. Trust me, I just did this. Here is the only necessary steps from that manual that you actually need to do:
1, 10, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 23. I dont know why the manual has you taking all kinds of other stuff out. There's no need to remove instrument panel bolts or A pillars. I just saved you at least an hour of time.

 

[okani]

possible water leak after windshield replacement

I am not explorer owner, but hope my answer will help.
I hit the same issue with my 09 accord, 2 month ago had to replace windshield due to small crack from little rock, safelite replaced windshield in September, after few days we had light rain and all lights inside with homelink stopped working - door light were okay as everything else. I thought that was because on the same day I had all that lights replaced on LEDs, and thinking that they're a culprit returned them (google it - LEDs can cause tons of issues). Since then, there was no rain but still - some guy back then mentioned that if you had windshield replaced - water leaks and gets on that module that is on the right side where the passenger legs are, behind the fuse box for accords. What his advice was to add more glue. Now, two month later - we had another light rain yesterday - and it again stopped working. I hope it will start working today again once it dries up. Hope it helps.

 

[sync58]

Ignition key cylinder fault?

tl;dr on bottom

I know its been a while since this issue was posted but last week this issue happened to me. Somehow it got fixed, I had already tested the fuse, checked the lamps to make sure they weren't blown but nothing. HomeLink, both lights on the vanity mirrors, maplights and rear reading lights and the light on the glovebox compartment were out. Nothing seemed to work. I had left the glovebox opened and turned the ignition to the on position and the light turned on for a very brief moment. Tried it 2 times and all the lights will turn on but immediately turn off. I could hear some noise in the engine bay, proceeded to disconnect the fuel pump relay and I could hear the accessory relay kicking in (that's what I think it was). Frustrated by finding no solution and reading that this SJB was to blame I was starting to grind my teeth for the bill that was to come to fix it. In desperation I tried wiggling the key in the ignition lock out of pure intuition, I cycled the key through the off - acc - on at least 15-20 times and voilá! It got fricking fixed!

I don't know what happened there but since the easy-entry feature on the seat was starting to act up and it moving me backwards and forward I decided to turn it off, the lights also turned on so I knew it had something to do with it. Hopefully this will help the next poor soul that has this issue.

tl;dr
Try cycling the igntion cylinder from off - acc - on at least 20 times. Wait 5 seconds between each iteration.