Hood project. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Hood project.

Hood project. (UPDATED 8-14-04)see last post..

This project has been my latese nemesis, but i am 3/4 of the way done and i am starting to feel pretty good about my acomplishment! Having NEVER used an oxy/aceteline torch, fiberglass or bondo before I am doing quite well.
THE PROJECT: Autozone stick on hood scoops becomming functional.
HOW I AM DOING IT: Grab a torch and cut the holes. Screwed and epoxied scoops to hood, ;lay fiberglass (use the fiberglass cloth, that other stuff is a nightmare!) Bondo over the fiberglass and part of the scoops so when painted it looks like the scoops are part of the hood.
Note on the holes...I found it to be an excellent method to fill the underside of the scoops with caulking. Squirt the caulking inside the cut out holes and fill the small gap between the hood and the scoops. Water couls get in and bleed through to the fiberglass and or bondo and ruin all the work. the caulking is just preventitive maintenance.
HERE IT IS SO FAR:
(dead link)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





well a torch other wise is not a good idea. WAY too much heat. Warps the living day lights out of the hood.
Either way with the scoops and as much goop as you have up there the warping probabally will not be as issue.

If applied correctly there is NO WAY for the water to pennatrate the body filler ( notice I did not say Bondo this is a manufacture not a product )
Make sure you prime and paint the bare metal from your cuts.
Sealing the bottom was a good idea.
Looks like you are well on your way, but still have a way to go.
Best of luck and take your time
 






i really dont have alot of filler on there, I just spread it out so it looks like one of the aftermarket fiberglass hoods. The hood was cut wayyyy before the bondo, fiberglass etc...was applied. the torch was turned down and when i was done i took a die grinder and ruffed up the area around the holes for about 4" all around except the back where i just ground to the back of the hood. i screwed the scoops down after using "2 ton" epoxy. i used 12 screws per scoop, to make sure hood flex was not a factor in the scoops. actually the most tedious part so far has been drilling out all those stupid holes in the front of the hood scoops that alone took me like 2 hours...LOL
the cuts them selves were secured using vaccum tubes from autozone. they sel;l it by the foot so i got 12 feet of it, sliced it down the middle (like wire loom) and filled the tubing with silicone and covered the edges of the cuts. i would hope that is secure and waterproof for a long time.
 






Oh boy oh boy oh boy...
 






should look good when you are done... and on a first gen too....
 






wow, you have big balls.
 

Attachments

  • untitled.JPG
    untitled.JPG
    32.5 KB · Views: 350


















Pheonixx77 said:
WTF is that supposed to mean? :fire:


hey i am sorry i did not mean it as an insult, i meant it as just a shock and addmarason*sp you are thinking outside of the box, i really can not wait to see how well it turns out, good luck
 






When driving in the rain, how you gonna keep water out of the engine bay?
 






thats a good question... but most engine parts can get wet, except alternator, battery, coil packs, and fuse box
 






Not much water is going to be able to get in anyway. Only a few drops while driving and it will run off when the truck is parked.
 






the holes in the scoops are very small. like 1/8" maybe little bigger. i had to use a real small drill bit on them and i broke 3 of them lol. i finished sanding and priming yesterday. which any preson who has done body work will tell you i found what i have to fix...a few sanding scratches and a few pinholes need to be worked. it should see paint soon.

-sorry, i thought you were being insulting, it just seemed that way. :chug:

as for water, i have actually hosed my engine off on several occasions. your engine can get very wet so long as it is running. if it is off i have noticed it will be difficult to start after getting wet.
 












a better question is- why cut the holes? do you think its going to help performance? have any major engine mods? i know no one wants to be a poser with fake hood scoops, but imo now your a poser with real hood scoops.
 






well getting cold air to flow over the engine and exhaust cannot hurt performance thats for sure....

just be prepared to have a dirty engine compartment.

Also the best way to reduce underhood temps with ventailation is to use louvers that face the cowl, so the hot air is drawn out....
 






part of this project will include sheet metal welded to direct airflow towards the open filter. I made a intake setup much like K&N's setup, only difference is it cost me about 40$. including the filter. simply put the amount of airflow across the engine compartment keeps the temps wayyyy down. i opened my hood after driving a couple of hours at 65-70 mph and then some lower in city driving and the only hot thing was the exaust manifold. the rest was just warm to the touch. yes a dirty engine compartment is bound to happen, but i think it is well worth the HP i will be freeing up due to cooler temps and almost 0 restriction to incomming airflow. also open filters (according to K&N) have a tendancy to draw in HOT air from inside the engine compartment. so yes an open filter is good but sucking all that hot air in is not.
 






but what would constant pure 50 degree colder than ambient air (which is totally impossibe anyways) really gain you with a 1994 explorer? nobodies gonna argue it can make enough horsepower difference to even feel.
 






lol dayme let the man have his fun!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





it's not how much colder. the fact is it is now alot less restcritive than stick or even just an open element. With just an open element you will be sucking in the heat genorated by the engine. other than that little space thefactory air came in the engine compartment is rather restricted. yes a big part of this is looks. but is that any different than a body kit? I know i wont get "oh my god different" in HP but here shortly i plan to replace the heads with another set that will be ported & polished, triple valve springs, new valve locks, 3 angle valve job. I also plan to attach a set of headders to these new heads. i dont want a crapload of mods as my engine has a lot of miles. i only plan to build the top end. I know i wont be the fastest on the block but i will be fast enough to get grocries and power the bigger tires and lift kit i will be putting in this winter.
 






Back
Top