How do I get this bolt back in? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How do I get this bolt back in?


Rah no Hans Bwix
November 21, 2002
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1994 XLT 4x4
I did my coil spacers today, and I thought I needed to remove the very bottom bolt in order to get the spring free. Now I'm done, and I cannot get this back in. I can get it in half way but it starts angling. I look inside and it doesn't look all lined up. Any ideas? Pic below.


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can you wedge something in the top portion(upper left of pic) to get the thing to come closer to centered then slip in the bolt tighten a few turns then take out whatever u wedged in there....did u have some pieces left over?

Nope .. tried that. I have no leftovers.

no ideas here....but if i may ask, how bad wrer the coil spacers to put in?

From the picture it looks like you may have some damaged threads.
you could use a small hydraulic jack and/or a prybar to push up on the axle arm to help get the alignment of the holes right.

not meaning to butt in on this thread but i did ther coil spacer lift and it is alot easier to do than a body lift is.

The easiest approach would be to remove the Upper Radius arm bolt. You have removed the lower bolt and this has caused a lot of the strain...Both the upper and lower bolts should be removed and installed together, otherwise the problem you have will occur..

If these bolts have never been removed, then you MUST heat them for 2 minutes with a propane torch to break the loctite. Otherwise you must use >1000ft/lbs of torq to move them...

The blue loctite can be removed with tools, whereas the red (used on these bolts) is not meant to come off unless heated to 500 F.

Well after just replacing my radius arms I discovered that it is easier to remove the nut and the end of the radius arm mount to axle then deal with radius arm end. We had to unbolt the crossmember that the ra bracket attaches to. put ra in bracket then remount ra bracket and crossmember

I originally used some ratcheting straps to pull axle toward radius arm brackets but I could only get either the top or bottom to line up not both.

It took 2 of us to twist and push the axle and arm into alingment. The previous post was we should have done with the first side. I ended up stripping the threads and had to tap them. So the other side we did what it sadi in previous post

The spacer install wasn't bad, except for the fact that my spacers turned out to be for a Jeep. Some minor trimming and the spacers fit fine. I got the bolt off with a 1/2 inch breaker bar, didn't need to heat it. So now to get it on, I'll have to heat it? I don't really understand what you're talking about. And how important is this thing? I have it screwed in about half way, only effect is a bump noise when I turn (which I don't want). It's getting aligned Monday so maybe they could fix it? I really wish I wouldn't have removed this thing.

That bolt is important, and by looking at the photos I would say you damaged threads trying to put the bolt in. I would be carefull when you drive with the bolt only half way in. With that bolt not tight it will most likely put stress on the upper radius arm mount.
Sometimes when a bolt is seized up you can apply heat to the nut and get it to come loose.

Originally posted by transmissionguy
not meaning to butt in on this thread but i did ther coil spacer lift and it is alot easier to do than a body lift is.

i dont know about that...the body lift for me was a very straight-forward concept.....i am pretty clueless about the coil spacer install...thats why i havent done it yet.

The upper and lower Radius arm bolts are very important. If they are loose it will be impossible to align the front end..(you can't align something that is moving)

If you were able to remove the bolt(s) with a 1/2" breaker bar without heat then I would bet they were previously removed. My bolts laughed at my 3.5 ft cheater bar before using heat. After heat I was able to wrench them off...

Can you loosen the top radius arm bolt? You will need to remove the coil spring to get at the upper radius arm bolt/stud. If you do this then the front sway bar bracket and radius arm can be reinstalled without being under pressure from one bolt being torqed down...

Ok.. So I should remove the coil spring, and try to get the bottom bolt in while hanging? Or are there other bolts I should remove also. What I'm thinking is the nut that holds the spring on, the sway bar bolt, and upper shock nut. Anything more?

Yes, You want to loosen (but not remove) the front sway bar bolts. You then want to remove the spring retaining nut, remove the spring and under the isolator will be the 28mm upper Radius arm stud. Loosen this. These are the only bolts you should have to play with to get this thing back on.

When re-intalling you should tighten the sway bar bracket bolts first then alternate between the upper and lower radius arm bolts untill they are in (check your manual for correct torq).

Ohhhhhh I see .. I forgot that under the spring there's that stud. I'll give that a shot.. I have a good feeling about this. Thanks!

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out... When I first removed my radius arm and sway bar brackets I didn't know what to expect. I thought they would fit together very tight, and that I would need a crow bar to move them. I was wrong. They fit together without being tight at all.. It is the bolts that put all the force on the brackets. Once you have the bolts loose you can move the brackets easily..

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Well, the stud is off and I still can only get this bolt in half way. I took a pic, it slants more and more as it gets further in.


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