how do I install timing tensioner

[njlarry]

Any tricks for installation of the front timing chain tensioner? It came out easily but requires so much force to put in that I am afraid of cross threading it.
Thank you for any tips you have. .

 

[2000StreetRod]

rotate the crankshaft

The tension on the slack side of the chain where the tensioner presses against the chain varies as the crankshaft rotates due to the changing valve spring pressure. Try manually rotating the crankshaft slowly to find a location when there is less pressure on the chain.

I always install my tensioner with only hand pressure until I'm sure that enough threads are engaged to prevent cross threading.

 

[njlarry]

Thank you. I picked up the new tensioner today from my Ford dealer, as it is "dry" it has less resistance going in. I assume that it should not be "primed" with oil prior to installing and the regular engine oil pressure should fill it as it runs?
Will try turning the crankshaft pulley but with the plugs all installed I expect I may not be able to turn it very far. BTW, the orginal tensioner did not have a gasket on it.
Thanks again for all your help on this site.

 

[2000StreetRod]

oil the tensioner

I suggest that you oil the tensioner before installation. After oiling the piston, hold the tensioner in your hand and compress the piston into the bore with your thumb checking for smooth movement. Then check for smooth movement while allowing the spring to extend the piston fully. Some pistons/bores are defective and the piston will seize in the retracted position (chain can slip) or the extended position (cassette guide will break).

 

[njlarry]

I can only get the tensioner I about a 1/4 turn. I have hard time getting to the crankshaft nut with the fan and the radiator in the way. Do you know what size nut it is? Can I bump the engine over with the starter or will that damage the timing chain without the tensioner in place?
Also how is the washer installed? Should the inner diameter with it raised edge go towards the engine block?
Thank you again.

 

[2000StreetRod]

1/4 turn

The threads are pretty fine. I doubt that 1/4 turn is enough to ensure that the tensioner won't cross thread. Did you test the new tensioner before trying to install it? Were you able to fully depress the piston face to be even with the top of the tensioner housing bore? I doubt that it matters which way the compression ring is installed. However, you should install grease on the ring to keep it centered when screwing in the tensioner. Otherwise the ring will drop and be off center and leak excessively when compressed. Push the tensioner hard toward the chain with your hand as you screw it in.

 

[njlarry]

Agree 1/4 not enough. I can depress the new OEM one all the way, the old goes all but 1/8" of the way. If I push them together, the old is weakest for the first 1/4" then the new has less resistance. I have still not yet pre oiled the new one.
BTY, how are they pre oiled?

 

[2000StreetRod]

small hole

Oil enters the assembly thru the port (red arrow) near the face of the hex head housing (rear tensioner shown).

Oil flows thru the assembly and exits via the small hole at the end of the piston in the center.

 

[njlarry]

Success!

Thank you StreetRod.
Did not have to turn crankshaft. Pre oiled by dunking in oil and pumping 6 or so times. Put washer on shaft with inside "cone" pointing up along threads towards block. Kept in place with grease. Using the butt of a wooden hammer handle in the left hand for downward pressure I was able to start the threads and then tighten it all the way to the end by hand without even the use of a socket. Torqued to 45 lbs w my 40 yr old beam torque wrench. No leaks so far and the five second rattle on start up is gone.
Have read your post about leaving them alone if no rattle as you feel the newer parts have weaker springs anyway. So I am going to leave the right tensioner on the rear of the block alone for now. ( my old left one did feel strong but very rough, now the rattle is gone so I feel it did need replacement. both were original on my 224000 mile Explorer.)
Hope this helps some others.
Thank you big time.