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How to: How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

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Seems kind of strange, but I just went to Dearborn Axle's site to check on bearing and hub prices. Upon doing a search for 2002 Explorer bearing/hub the search result returned "none found". I also did a search for other various year Explorer models, along with a few Expedition models and the result was the same "none found"!!!

In the search fields you enter year/make/model....eg:2002/Ford/Explorer. It comes up with part numbers for front and rear, but when you choose any of them it comes back with "none found" This was the same no matter what year I chose, and the same with the Expedition. Almost seems like they just don't carry the parts for those vehicles????

I didn't call them because I'm just looking around at parts prices for things I may have to do eventually.
 



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like others here.. i too purchased the cheap chinese bearings... my wife uses the explorer on smooth roads with no harsh driving whatsoever... yet 15000 miles later i have to do it again.. luckily i put timkens in the rear so they should last longer.... my question, is ford motorsport part hd64 also for the 4wd front application.. if it isnt ill use the sp470200...as always these threads are very useful and i appreciate any reply
 






The shop I go to said the only bearing the recommend using is BCA National. The last one I installed was Moog, and it's the name part number in it as the BCA National and it says National on it.
 






I did a front bearing/hub assy for the first time (for me) on my '02 EB today.

Had a handful of Valium and a fifth of Jack Daniels, bandages, pullers and offset wrenches handy. I didn't need any of that stuff. A 29MM socket, a set of metric swivel sockets, a regular old 3/8" & 1/2" metric socket set, a 1/2" breaker bar, a brass hammer and a couple of spritzes of WD40 took care of everything.

I loosened the axle nut and backed it out until it was flush with the end of the threaded stub-shaft, then gave it a good, hard, whack with a brass hammer. It just popped loose. I loosened the lug bolts; stuck a jack under the control arm until the tire was off of the ground. I removed the wheel/tire. I removed the two caliper mount bolts and hung the caliper from the spring with a piece of wire. I set the rotor aside and finished removing the stub-shaft nut. After removing the ABS sensor cable from the plug and the harness mounts, I used a swivel socket and loosened the three flange bolts starting with a breaker bar and switching to a ratchet. The stub shaft could be slid back far enough for the swivel socket to fit right in there on all three bolts. Before the final removal of the bolts; again, a smack with a hammer from behind, on the heads of two of the flange bolts, and the bearing broke free. A few more turns and the bolts and bearing were in my hands.

I used the supplied bolts for reinstallation and Loctite for the axle nut. After the wheel/tire was back on, and on the ground; rather than walking to the tool box for a torque wrench, I simply used the 18" breaker bar and stood on it at about 10" from the socket. Pretty close to 180 ft/lbs.

It took less than one hour from tools out, to backing out of the driveway. It would have been a waste of electricity to turn on the compressor.

I've noticed that there is mention of a 30MM axle nut, but mine was 29MM.

This job is a piece of cake. Everything is nice and quiet now.

Art


I'm with art on this, I just changed out both front bearings on an 05 4wd x today and from start to finish it took a little over an hour. I used an 18v makita impact and my handy dandy snap-on swivel sockets that have the swivel on the socket. I didn't have a problem getting the hub out of the knuckle on either side just a light tap with a hammer and it was loose.
 






I just did this job on my '07 Limited last night. I wish I would have found this thread when I was reading up on this Job instead of the write up on the older one.

Here is what I did!

Jacked up the front and put in Jack Stands
Pulled the Wheel
Used and Impact to pull the Axle Nut
Pulled the 2 Bolts holding in the Caliper
Tied the Caliper up using Mechanics Wire
Removed the 3 Hub Bolts, Not to Bad, a little tricky!
**With the Nut on the Axle, I gave it a Whack (I don't Recommend this)
With a Hammer tapped on the Hub and Pulled- Repeat as Necessary


**What happened to me was, I ended up ruining a couple threads on the CV shaft and still didn't get the axle out of the hub. I ended up having to buy a new shaft, so while I was there I rented the Axle Puller and within 5 min had the Axle and the Hub seperated.

If I can save someone else $100, I hope this helps. Oriellys rents the tool for pretty much just paying the Deposit, and returns it when you are done.

So my 2 hour job, turned into a 5 hour job, with trips to the Part Store and some research for changing a CV Shaft- By the Way, when you change a CV shaft on the drivers side of a newer explorer, unbolt the strut from the Lower Control arm instead of trying to fight and get the shaft to come out another way.

Corey
 






Did this using this post as research. Thank you.
 






My front and rear bearing are making noise, i changed the rear one last month, but the noise is still there, i want to change the hub now, which brand of hub can i buy?
 






My front and rear bearing are making noise, i changed the rear one last month, but the noise is still there, i want to change the hub now, which brand of hub can i buy?

Doing the front now? When we had two go at once (front right, and rear left). I ended up going to the shop I like in town. The guy there said the only recommend BCA National bearings. Three months ago we had the front left go after being replaced from the dealer in Sept 2009, and I got a MOOG from www.advanceautoparts.com for $173 minus $50 ($50 off $150+ with code VISA). MOOG Bearings look to be relabeled National bearings. Both company's are owned by Federal-Mogul.
 






Thanks to all you guys that shared your experiences, specially the details and photos. I recently changed out both front and rear bearings in a 2003 EB 4wd following the advice on this thread and the rear hub thread.
The only advice I could add is on the reluctance of the front bearing hub to separate from the hub carrier. This varies greatly so don't be afraid to use a really big hammer to knock loose the hub.
On my vehicle the drivers side hub came off with a light tap of a two pound hammer. The passenger side required an eight pound sledge along with some heat and a portapower duckbill.
I got my hubs and bearings from Rock Auto, Timken USA front and Timken Canada rear.
Drives smooth and quiet now.

Randy
 






Followed most of your advise and found it useful. To get the shaft out, I loosened the three bolts that hold the assembly in place. I then got it seperated enough to fit a wrench end in between the the hub and the spindle, snug down the three bolts with a wrench in between (finger tight) leaving a gap of about one half of an inch. Put nut hub on enough to cover threads and tap center of shaft, once it moved a little I removed the hub nut and three bolts and the whole thing slid right off. FYI, on a 2006 Explorer the hub nut is 32mm not 30mm, go figure. Oh yeah, I chose the hunched over method and now have a sore back.

"Don't do anything today you can put off until tomorrow, you might think of a better way to do it." Grandpa's advice.

its actually 1 1/4" thats what mine is (2006) and bought new ones to put on
and thats what they are too. 32 mm is close. but its actually 1 1/4" socket.
 






Front Wheel Bearing Hub

Got mine from Ebay $174 + $5 for shipping. It was a genuine Motorcraft Part with the new bolts. Ebay Seller was geiserford1975
 












Does anyone have the secret to releasing the hub from the RTV? My hub is stuck fast. Removing the three bolts and the axel nut were a cinch. But breaking the hub free from the knuckly is killing me. I have the slide hammer from Autozone and have pounded it for hours, but it still won't move. I've jammed three screwdriver into the gap but it still won't release. Any advise is appreciated. Thanx!

BTW, I have two extra sets of the (6) hub bolts (new in Ford package) if anyone needs em for $50 incl free shipping. They're now $14 each at the dealer! If interested, PM me.
 






Does anyone have the secret to releasing the hub from the RTV? My hub is stuck fast. Removing the three bolts and the axel nut were a cinch. But breaking the hub free from the knuckly is killing me. I have the slide hammer from Autozone and have pounded it for hours, but it still won't move. I've jammed three screwdriver into the gap but it still won't release. Any advise is appreciated. Thanx!

BTW, I have two extra sets of the (6) hub bolts (new in Ford package) if anyone needs em for $50 incl free shipping. They're now $14 each at the dealer! If interested, PM me.[/QUOTE]

DAMN, I just ordered 6 of these from Tousley for 10 each + 10 shipping.

Have you trued using a chisel instead of a screw driver to pry out the hub from the knuckle? Also you could try a little hear onthe knuckle too. Glad you got the mounting bolts out. Mine were out 4 years ago when I had teh fronts done. I tried on Sat. and got he first two out. but the 3rd rounded of FML. NOw I have to pay someone to the teh f'in bolt out. I was so pissed that I did not even try the other side. I
 






Photos and Video's from my hub replacement

Now that I've done it, I could knock this out in half an hour...

Video:


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Video:


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Video:

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Pictures:

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951a31d4.jpg

b0222489.jpg
 






Did mine last night with NAPA premiums... 397 including tax for both sides. Two hour job including clean up. Fortunately have access to a lift and that makes it a lot easier. Zero issues whatsoever. Thanks for the details in this thread. Certainly glad I didn't have to contend with axles!

I kept the ABS sensor wires if anyone needs them for an emergency.
 






Fantastic forum here.
My brakes started chattering and locking up, ABS sensor warning, 4x4 warning, advance trac warning. I'm thinking wth is going on here?
Came to this forum and started my research, the input by users and the technicians here turned out to be a wealth of information. I learned as bearings wear out the sensor gets too close and this is what sends out a faulty reading. Sensors can also go bad, but in my case the sensor was good. NAPA Auto sold me the replacement hub, and with the information here my work was orderly, I had all the right tools, ( including the offset 13mm/15mm I purchased at Sears)

That offset is a must, or those three bolts will drive you crazy. About 2 1/2 hours start to finish, and saved about $350 per wheel.

I might not had taken this project on, but once again thank you to all who have shared here. I will also share what I have learned if anyone has need.

Thanks again.

Joe
 






Bearings are shot

Now that I've done it, I could knock this out in half an hour...

Video:


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Video:


th_00cb69bb.jpg


Video:

th_414100ad.jpg


Pictures:

c98e2cd2.jpg

951a31d4.jpg

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/HiImBrian1
/b0222489.jpg


Just watched your video. That was some serious movement and grinding in those bearings.
 






Par72 said:
Just watched your video. That was some serious movement and grinding in those bearings.

Yessir! For future reference, I didn't need the offset wrench for mine. I used a deep socket and my torque wrench and the bolts came right out. The torque wrench is much longer than the offset wrench and allows for WAY more leverage. It made the job much easier.
 



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Just received by MOOG front hubs yesterday and everything looks in order. Came with abs sensor, wire clip and new hub and caliper bolts. Bolts donot have the yellow thread lock so I will use red loctite on the hub bolts. Total came out to $134 each with tax after 15% discount and free shipping from Advanced Auto. 15% off deal good thru 7/31. I will report back on the install soon.

Tony D.
 






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