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How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing


Asmegin

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So after 2-3 hours banging the rotor/hub, they finally came off! Everything started going together good until I went to put the caliper back on...and it BARELY fit. The pads are tight against the rotor....

What would cause this? Maybe I accidentally pressed the brake pedal??

Anyways, from my limited understanding...I have to compress the caliper piston with a C-Clamp? I don't have the tools or the expertise, so I'm hoping my mechanically inclined neighbour can look at it tonight.

:mad::mad:
 


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oldschool

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It's not a bad idea to crack the bleeder valve when you push the piston in. That will allow the fluid to flow out of the bleeder instead of pushing dirty fluid back through the ABS system. If you were able to get the caliper back on and the bolts in, don't worry about it.
 




Asmegin

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Yeah, we just compressed the pistons and slapped it back on. Did a test drive, and while braking I can hear a slight rubbing sound. It's gone when I take my foot off the brake...hmm.
 




MountaineerDoug

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Thanks to everyone here - completed this one this weekend.

So like I expected the first side (driver) took a little longer than expected on Saturday. Sunday I did the passenger side in less than half the time.

I bought the advanced auto NTP wheel hub complete assemblies and they fit up just perfect. The trickiest parts I learned from day one:

1) My axle shaft nut is NOT 30mm like stated. Was close enough to work, but is either standard or a 29mm.
2) Access to the three hub mounting bolts (15mm) is greatly improved by turning the wheels hard over in either direction. I could then use a socket and pivoting head ratchet to BUST em loose.
3) The hub over time became one with the steering knuckle. I initially tried all kinds of mallets and prying and no luck. I finally found that a good razor knife follwed by a hammer and STEEL REINFORCED 'putty knife/scrapper tool' could be used to split the two pieces enough to get an incrementing set of larger pry bars in there to separate the two.
4) Once loosened from each other a little force from a 3 jaw puller separated the splined shaft from the bearing assembly.
5) Like others, I had to compress the brake pistons to get the caliper back over the rotors and was a bit of a pain.
6) When disconnecting the wheel speed sensors and starting up the engine to turn the wheels back and forth I generated an ABS lamp/fault. When I was complete and re-assembled it was still there. I troubleshot the connection for a half hour with no luck. Just to find out it went away as soon as I backed out of the drive way. Must have needed to see a good wheel speed signal to clear?
7) DONT FORGET that you compressesed you brake pistons like I did. I backed out of the garage in panic mode as I had a mushy pedal before I remembered! Almost lubed my own posterior joint as the mirrors came close t the columns of the grage door!
8) This was an opportune time to change the Upper Ball Joints which I did at the same time.

So now Mountaineer is back, no annoying 'tire-like noise' and the ride feels back to origonal. Thanks again to all those who post here with great tips.
 




jstorm001

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I just wanted to add a few pictures of mine....specifically the ones where you can see the deep offset 15mm wrench on the bolts holding the hub...and you can see how they are recessed so that you pretty much can't get anything else on them, because the axle is in the way.

Caliper tied off to coathanger, offset wrench on one of the hub bolts:


Backside of the spindle, bolts holding the hub on....it's a tight squeeze, too tight for ratchets/sockets, and definitely not any air tools....trust me, I tried!


Another one of the hub bolts, this is the top center one....I had to alternate the wrench from one side of the spindle to the other, halfway through...to get it out the rest of the way:


Just another shot of the old hub assembly:


Showing how I wrapped the coat hanger around the upper control arm to hold the caliper out of the way, without bending the brake hose beyond its limit. Upper ball joints are this weekend's project....lol:



Thanks again to the OP for posting this thread, it really helped me out! I will be doing the other hub next week, will hopefully be able to run through it quickly and with much more confidence!


wow! look at the upper ball joint thats really bad!!! you need to replace that and i thought mine looked bad lol
 




jrford

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'10 Sport Trac
For the record i bought the cheap Chinese ones for $100 but it came with new bolts, no problems yet in 8 months, but I'm lining up my tools. . .
Update on my post #23. . . the cheap one lasted about 2 years.
Long story short i was on a camping trip up north only 30miles from the campground after a 4 hour trip, and the 'Check Charging System' came on. So i turned everything off (radio, A/C) only to hear the faint whine from the front, more of a vibration if anything, the sound/vib changed in the turns, I knew I got the cheap one so I figured that was it. Got home replaced the Reman Alt with a new one. No snow and it was a nice day so I thought I’d give it a try, plus I had a few day before returning to work, so I tackled the wheel bearing again.

This time I didn't go fleabay (about $60) but instead I went to O'Reily's needed to do ASAP. They had two in-stock a low end $160 and high end (SKF) $190. Both came with 5 bolts/ABS sensor but one said 'Timken' figured i'd spend the extra money this time. On this go around it came apart very easily. When I got down to the wheel bearings bolts, I soaked them with PBplaster while I went to pick up the part. When I got back, I tried to remove those pesky 3 bearing bolts. But this time they just backed out like butter. It probably helped tremendously that it was apart only two years before but a couple of key things that helped:
1-Biggest Improvement this time was a new Air Compressor at 150psi, the 20 year old one was only 90psi but more like 50psi. The new one could remove the 185ft/lbs nut without any problems, before I used a 36” wrecker bar.
2-One was the 12pt Craftsman socket, silver non-impact but it did fit the bolt head while the impact didn't. Add a 6" extension and i could still get the 1/2" Impact in there.
3-15mm Deep offset worked well in tighten them back down, bought the kit it was on sale.
4-Slide hammer pulled that hub right out with 3 hits.

Total time 3 hours including a trip to sears and O’reiliys. Ready to do another one. . .lol
 




MJT-Mountie

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The instructions and tips were great. Here's another tip for Ex 4x4 and Mountaneer AWD owners. I had the same problems "thepotroast" had except I had my '03 Mountie on jackstands and nosed in a friend's garage. I didn't have the long deep offset 15mm box end that he had. And since the car was my only transport, I had no way to get to Sears and purchase one. However, I did have a puller and decided I would try to push the halfshaft back since it should have some slip. I attached the puller to the old hub centered the puller bolt and it pushed the axle back far enough to get a 15mm socket on the bolts and break them "loose." After using lots of PB Blaster I was able to get a knuckle adapter on the socket and use a ratchet (with a breaker bar on the handle) to get the bolts out.

"potroast," who's the guy on eBay selling the OEM hubs? I need to now do the left front and would like to get a quality replacement. Thanks all for the help.
 




Hunter11

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I just replaced my front left hub. 2002 2WD and everything came apart pretty easily.
So, I change the hub, take it for a test drive and still the same noise! When I hear the roar/hum it sounds like it has to be coming from the left side.

I bought the hub off of ebay from Time Auto Parts ($70). It came new, had the ABS sensor but it was not OEM. Even if it is the el cheapo brand it wouldn't be making a sound right off the bat, would it?
Let's just say that if someone would have changed the hub without me knowing, I wouldn't have known any difference.

Has anyone changed one side and it actually was the other that was the bad one?

I guess I can put the hub that i just took off on the passenger side to see if it's the right side that is bad.
 




evilmike198

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'04 XLT, 4dr, 4wd, V6, 93k miles

I've been subscribed to this thread for months now only waiting to finally change my wheel bearings when I could find Timken bearings cheap. Last week I ordered two Timken SP470200 Axle Bearing and Hub Assemblies with wheel speed sensor from Amazon for $114.70 each - the cheapest I've found anywhere. The parts were sold through StockWiseAuto. I placed the order late last Wednesday night, the order was filled last Thursday morning, shipped that afternoon, and I got them delivered last Friday morning - all through standard shipping.

I don't want to repeat anything that others have already commented on, but I'd just like to share a tip that might help others. Per previous posts I went out and bought the offset 13mm/15mm wrench and that did help, but it still took too long. When I replaced my rear wheel bearings a few months ago I bought the OEM/FWD Hub Puller from AutoZone (p/n 27037). When I was using the hub puller to press out the front axle shaft I found that if I still had the puller attached to the hub - effectively pushing the shaft inwards towards the front differential - I was able to get a standard socket, extension, and ratchet behind the hub to get at all three bolts and remove them in short order. I wasn't attempting to press out the axle entirely from the hub because that could only potentially damage the cv joint, but rather I only pressed it out far enough to get the socket and extension behind the hub to get a good grip on the bolt head. The whole process for both front bearings took me about 90min from the time I jacked up the front to the time I was putting the tools away.

Here's a pic of the puller I used:


I hope this helps others.

-Mike
 




mikeal21

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I didn't get new bolts with ebay bearing, $113 for a pair. Can't beat the price, made in USA, and because (detroit axle) next state over received in 2 days. NO BOLTS, dam nobody, even dealer would help. Reused old....Was more careful not to mare after 1st. Best method for me was HEAT. Put torch on from other side of work,, area way better than PB Blaster... My spindle nut (found new ones from Tousley Ford) was 29mm had to pay $15 at autozone for it. Bought set of offsets at Harbor Freight for $12 that went from 6mm to 22mm almost all in between. That 15mm got smacked good with hammer when needed, and is in perfect working order now, hit it hard if you need too.
 




OJsBronco

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Thanks evilmike. I got them from Amazon. Shipping was $25 for 2 hubs. The cheapest I've found.
 




Ziggy53

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no bustin my knuckles lol

Or really, more like learn from my errors... LOL


-Shawn
lol thx Shawn for the great pics of U changing the bearings .. lmfao it made my day .. i feel 4 U but i better start feeling the same way 2 and soon ahahha .. Great insight on your procedure .. i gotta do my wifes xploder soon like within a week waitin on parts as we type talk ..U are a funny guy .. i C you have sum twistin of the wrenches xperiences as I have.. i can't wait to start my job ( NOT ) but U are A funny guy with yur detailed hands on and off part procedure .. i guess i haven't heard of the way U speak .. sum funny stuff rite there and as u xplained it .. i lol'd the whole way threw yur procedure .. (NICE job by the way) well bud wish me LUCK doing the same,when u do your next JOB .. i will let ya no how my xperience went within a week or so depends on weather,timing of parts and soooo on ... if i Take the wheels off it.. it probably will stationary the vehilce so i can get to work onit ! HMMM LMFAO ( AT NITE WHILE WIFE IS SLEEPIN ) its been a long post hopefully u can still read my xperience .. c'n U posted .. I think almost 2 years ago MAYBE i'm wrong lol .. heres twisting wrenches with ya brother !
 




Licklog

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Thanks for the great information fellas. Did my wife's 2002 yesterday and went through the same pain and suffering most of you did. I got a Timken assembly with ABS sensor from Rock Auto for $143 shipped. The installation was pretty straightforward but I have a couple of questions.

Once I finished the install I noticed that the new bolts are about 3/8 inch shorter than the originals. Where the originals stick out of the hub a bit, the new ones are recessed about the same amount. Also the new ones are 3/4 in vs 15mm original. Any thoughts on this?

Also, since it is so difficult to get a socket on the bolt heads how did you guys torque them down to 83ft-lbs?

Thanks,

Licklog
 




phigregg

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Today is the day for me! Got the OEM part from a buddy for 143 ea. I've learned so much from this post, thanks to all who contributed!
 




ShawnTRD

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Today is the day for me! Got the OEM part from a buddy for 143 ea. I've learned so much from this post, thanks to all who contributed!
3 more to go
 




phigregg

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Kudos to the idea of applying heat, frees therm right up! Also, disconnecting the tie rod end gives you a lot more freedom of movement. I did not have or need the deep offset wrench. This entire post is just spot on, thanks!
 




Gloff

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The offset wrench is absolutely KEY! I'm currently trying to free the assembly from the steering knuckle, it looks like it's siliconed on, is it required to apply silicone when assembling the new one?

Luckily my CV axle was free as a bird I could push it with my hand, but a puller is handy to keep it from popping back toward you, also, cranking the wheel hard right makes it easier to remove the top and rear side assembly bolts and hard left adds freedom from the tierod, seriously consider blasting those bolts on both sides with penetrating lube and leave it sit overnight, that really helped me break them loose.

I used an old socket wrench through the 13mm side of the box end, and that allows you some leverage without wrecking your hands.

EDIT:

Got the hub out, I found the best way was to use the puller against the CV straight up and hit the backside of the actual hub (where the head of the lug bolts are) with a nailing hammer, rubber just won't do it and since you're replacing the whole unit you don't have to worry about busting it up. Hit the 3 corners where the bolts are gradually pulling it out
 
Last edited:




Gloff

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I just replaced my front left hub. 2002 2WD and everything came apart pretty easily.
So, I change the hub, take it for a test drive and still the same noise! When I hear the roar/hum it sounds like it has to be coming from the left side.

I bought the hub off of ebay from Time Auto Parts ($70). It came new, had the ABS sensor but it was not OEM. Even if it is the el cheapo brand it wouldn't be making a sound right off the bat, would it?
Let's just say that if someone would have changed the hub without me knowing, I wouldn't have known any difference.

Has anyone changed one side and it actually was the other that was the bad one?

I guess I can put the hub that i just took off on the passenger side to see if it's the right side that is bad.
2wd models are easy because you don't have the CV axle in the way, you can use an impact wrench to break them loose.

I would relplace both at the same time, and buy a good brand. I learned that lesson when I bought cheapo rebuilt shocks and they failed before I put them on my CRX.

I suggest Rockauto.com, I got Timken assemblies for 140 each with the abs sensor and they even comped me $10 to buy the bolts that weren't in the box on for one of them rather than ship it back.
 




FL_Mountaineer

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New Hub - NOISE REMAINS!!

02 Mountaineer, 2WD. Symptoms were a humming noise over 35 mph, goes away with left turns, gets louder with right turns, ever present on straight-aways. Swear I could feel subtle vibration in steering wheel when making right turns. I assumed it was a bad front driver side hub bearing. Replaced it this morning (bolts were easy, prying off hub was not). Noise remains!!! Did I mis-diagnose this?

By the way, I've checked all wheels for "free-play", none budged when yanked at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock, so if a bad hub remains, it's not obvious...

Did I replace the wrong bearing??? How did other people diagnose which bearing was bad?
 


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10grw

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Hello everyone, I changed both Front Wheel Bearings 10 months ago and now the humming noise is back again. To get right to the point and not waste anyone's time.
1. Could the bearings deteriorate so quickly? (I bought them from ebay - $130 each)
2. Could it be something else?
3. Should I have had my wheels rotated/balanced/aligned/replaced (2 original tires 57,000 2 others 30,000) when I installed the new bearings?
I wouldn't mind changing them again, however I want to make sure this is the problem. Also, my ABS light has been on for a while.
Finally, thank you to everyone who posted on this forum/thread. Your posts, replies, advice, photos and knowledge-sharing (and $1200 dealership quote!) gave me the confidence to attempt this first-time around. It would take forever to thank you individually. I could not have done this without you.
 




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