How much to replace 4.10s with 4.56s... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How much to replace 4.10s with 4.56s...

I am seriously looking at swaping my stock 4.10 gears for 4.56s and was wondering what kind of price I will be looking at. I will be taking it to a shop to have the gaer swap done, because I have no place to work on it at home and I am far from mechanicaly inclined. Thanks...
 



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Brian-

What is making you think of doing that Brian? with 4.56 you'll be running high RPMS at highway speeds.

i know at 55-70 i run about 2500-3000. it would kill gas mileage also.
 






Right now it is between getting the Power Trax locker for the rear or new gears. I know the Power Trax is going to run me $300-400 and I have a guy here at work that will put it in for me for free. I am just trying to get a feel for what it would cost to get the gears changed out first. I am not really worried about gas milage, as I am still getting 17-19 MPG with the 33s and 4.10s. I don't do a whole lot of 55+ driving anyway.
 






Brian, I got a hellava deal and got used ones from diff whack daddy, 4.56 gears for the rear and a front diff with 4.56 and a detroit EZlocker for $400, also purchased an axle for $250, so I have $650 and done no installing. I figure the gears will cost you between $150-200 per axle if you go Drivetrain direct, plus about $60 for each axle for a master install kit, plus labor, I have been quoted myself at shops and seeing other guys around here at about $1000 for the total job. Unless Kampy is at your service, setting up gears is not for the timid and is costly if done wrong, I luckily have Matt(not IL Mr. Fixit, but WI Mr. Fixit) to set my gears and do the swap.
 












So how much for just the labor alone? I can get the parts for cheap myself. I'm going to go from 3.55's to 4.10's when I go to 33's.
 












Splashman,
Have you found 4.56 gears for your front end? when I got my 4.10's they did not know anyone that made 4.56 for the 95+ Ex front end.

BTW it was ~500 on labor when I regeared. You have to realize how much of the front end they have to take apart to get to the diff
 






Just a thought !
Gears will add another $300 approx. to the project. Since the rear/front end may have to come apart the same amount to install the ez locker (Iknow the diff should not have to be reoved) just do it all at the same time.

Gears should go in very easily, since you are using the same diff housing, just use the same shims when reinstalling (Measure them, do not mix up the shims, keep the left and right sides separate and keep the pinion shims separate). Put on the gears put the shims back where they came from and put the diff back in to the axle, put some paste on the gears and spin to double check but that's it.

The $1000/$1500 figure should include the gears and the lockers.

Good Luck
 






I guess the Power Trax is the only way to go. I didn't even bother to ask if there would be a problem with the front. I should have known better after reading all the posts about guys trying to put lockers in their fronts. Hey, give me a break, I am new to this and my ideas don't always go the way I plan. The Power Trax is the way to go I guess. Jefe' , you have the locker with 4.10s, how is your MPG?
 






Brian, do you have Limited Slop in your diff. I have that 98 axle with an open diff, and you could sell your LS and buy this one from me for less, then your locker would be far cheaper to install on an open carrier with 4.10s in it
Just a thought to save you money, I can get a 3.73 and regear it to 56's just as easy as this 4.10 I have right now.
 






That would be too much work... I only have $180 to go before I can order the locker and then my friend said he can put it in, in about two hours. You just can't get those disks off and want to pawn the rear end off on someone else... I do read other posts on this board!
 






Yeah, I've got a powertrax with 4.10's and 33's. Before all my performance mods I was getting 11 around town and 15 highway. with a chip and high flow stuff I'm getting 13 around town.
 


















:rolleyes:

How the helll did i get brought into this! Damn danny i didn't even call you a stupid Cheese head or anything!


Anyways Brain as far as that 4" trailmaster my garage is always open, i just have to buy some new tools..


Remember i have heat in there :-0
 






Just pimpin ya a little austin, I know you can take it like a champ. So where is Matt going next year? And why take off the body lift , go big or go home. Hmmm I could do that spring over in my sleep, as for the front, I have yet to touch an IFS, and did you see I GOT THE DISKS OFF, wohoo
 






Matt is moving out east...:(
As far as the lift, the body lift is coming off, because #1 I would be too high for ILL state law and I don't need that hastle and #2 I don't need to be huge to wheel. I am a trail rider, NOT a rock crawler. #3 This is still the family vehicle and my 5'4" wife and 7 year old daughter have a hard enough time getting in now. I figure that the Trailmaster lift is 4", so I will still be going up 1" with it after taking the 3" off.
The Trailmaster lift is made for the 95+, so no spring over in the back needed.
Trailmaster lift...
Matt installed one on another 2001 Sport and said it went pretty smooth.
2001 Explorer Sport 7" lift...
 









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