How To: 01-03 Sport Cluster into a 96-95

[syn-]

So after receiving great info from all the members here, I have decided to give back to the community. I will add pictures from various other help threads for identification purposes (once I get permission). Though in short what this write-up will offer is a newer gauge cluster found in (97-0?) sohc explorers and 01-03 sport trac clusters into 96-95 (not sure but this might work for the 94-92) years as well.

Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for any/all damage that you inflict on your fingers, new cluster, or old cluster.

Thanks go to:
ncranchero
1998Exploder
Dan Whitaker


Tools Needed:
8mm
7mm
6mm
Fork
Large Paper Clip

Total Time: 2-3hrs depending on pace


Follow the steps 1-16 mentioned in other sticky:
Dead Link Removed

Questions you need to ask yourself:

1. Do I want my Fuel Gauge to read passed Full?
2. Do I want my Engine Temp gauge to work?
3. Do I want all my Indicators to work?

Answers:

Read this forum for optimum exact replacement needs.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203189&highlight=sport+cluster

Note: Skip to the 5th picture and you can see how to detach the fuel and temp readout face plate.

Getting the Temp Gauge to work:

1. You must do this on both Sport and 9x. A Fork is great leverage tool to take off the needles. They don't come off easy, I suggest pulling straight and not wiggling!

2. After the needles are off, remove the temp motor screws from behind each of the face plates.

3. You must use the screws for the Sport they are a Torx bit head (sorry forgot what size might be a 20).

4. Mount and Screw down.

5. Put Face Plate back on Sport housing.

6. Put the Fuel Needle on as accurate as you can the computer will adjust it for you.

7. Connect the cluster without plastic housing.

Note: The truck must be in a dead cold state at this point before you can put the temp needle back.

8. Turn the key (but do not start the truck) and place the temp needle on the cluster so it points dead on with the line.

9. Drive around after to make sure the needle starts to move.

Note: If you don't do this your check gauge light will stay lit after less than 5 min of driving.

Getting the same fuel readout as the 9x:

1. Repeat Temp Gauge instructions just swap the Fuel motor.

Getting Indicators to work:

1. Remove cluster by disconnecting 3 harness'.

2. Remove harness locks that are both sides of the connector.

3. Using a Large Paper Clip push in the middle of the harness connections.
Note: the easiest way to do this is push down and slide up toward back end of the connector (where the wires connect to the metal pins).

4. Follow the diagram below to repin each wire to their new place in the 3 different harness'.

Note: The top connector on the cluster is Black (1-12 pins), The right most long white connector is (1-16 pins), and the middle white connector is (1-10 pins)
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed

Final Product:
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed

Finally all I can say is, thanks to all the people who answered my questions and provided the pictures you see above. I will be listing the people later on with pictures. Oh and can I get a Sticky?

 

[Joe Dirt]

Looks good so far!

 

[syn-]

Update: DPFE sensor failed on me and my CEL came on, had it cleared, it came back on. Replaced the sensor, has not come back.

 

[syn-]

Picture update.

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

looks good so far

 

[Sbyrne97]

Cool man Im going to do this one day

 

[RickOTR]

Found a simple way to correctly adjust your speedometer and other gauges. Did this last night after I got home from work and now my speedometer is perfect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au4kT4WEP9c&feature=related

 

[pintobobster]

So after receiving great info from all the members here, I have decided to give back to the community. I will add pictures from various other help threads for identification purposes (once I get permission). Though in short what this write-up will offer is a newer gauge cluster found in (97-0?) sohc explorers and 01-03 sport trac clusters into 96-95 (not sure but this might work for the 94-92) years as well.

Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for any/all damage that you inflict on your fingers, new cluster, or old cluster.

Thanks go to:
ncranchero
1998Exploder
Dan Whitaker


Tools Needed:
8mm
7mm
6mm
Fork
Large Paper Clip

Total Time: 2-3hrs depending on pace


Follow the steps 1-16 mentioned in other sticky:
Dead Link Removed

Questions you need to ask yourself:

1. Do I want my Fuel Gauge to read passed Full?
2. Do I want my Engine Temp gauge to work?
3. Do I want all my Indicators to work?

Answers:

Read this forum for optimum exact replacement needs.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203189&highlight=sport+cluster

Note: Skip to the 5th picture and you can see how to detach the fuel and temp readout face plate.

Getting the Temp Gauge to work:

1. You must do this on both Sport and 9x. A Fork is great leverage tool to take off the needles. They don't come off easy, I suggest pulling straight and not wiggling!

2. After the needles are off, remove the temp motor screws from behind each of the face plates.

3. You must use the screws for the Sport they are a Torx bit head (sorry forgot what size might be a 20).

4. Mount and Screw down.

5. Put Face Plate back on Sport housing.

6. Put the Fuel Needle on as accurate as you can the computer will adjust it for you.

7. Connect the cluster without plastic housing.

Note: The truck must be in a dead cold state at this point before you can put the temp needle back.

8. Turn the key (but do not start the truck) and place the temp needle on the cluster so it points dead on with the line.

9. Drive around after to make sure the needle starts to move.

Note: If you don't do this your check gauge light will stay lit after less than 5 min of driving.

Getting the same fuel readout as the 9x:

1. Repeat Temp Gauge instructions just swap the Fuel motor.

Getting Indicators to work:

1. Remove cluster by disconnecting 3 harness'.

2. Remove harness locks that are both sides of the connector.

3. Using a Large Paper Clip push in the middle of the harness connections.
Note: the easiest way to do this is push down and slide up toward back end of the connector (where the wires connect to the metal pins).

4. Follow the diagram below to repin each wire to their new place in the 3 different harness'.

Note: The top connector on the cluster is Black (1-12 pins), The right most long white connector is (1-16 pins), and the middle white connector is (1-10 pins)
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed

Final Product:
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed

Finally all I can say is, thanks to all the people who answered my questions and provided the pictures you see above. I will be listing the people later on with pictures. Oh and can I get a Sticky?

I know this is a very old post but does anyone know how to get the pictures they spoke of in this post??
would have been nice to have read the notes along with the pictures just incase the pictures got deleted or removed??

been researching to find information on the repining (moving the wires for warning lights) on my 1995 Ranger from a 2001 Explorer white face cluster

 

[pintobobster]

So here is what I found and did to swap the 2001 Explorer white faced cluster panels into my 1995 Ranger using all my 1995 gauges and housing with the plastic board.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
CONNECTOR C216 PIN# 3 PK/LG
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C215 PIN# 4 (MINE WAS EMPTY)

DOOR AJAR
CONNECTOR C215 PIN# 3 BK/O
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 6

FUEL RESET ( WHICH IS INERTIA SWITCH ON PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR TO SHUT OFF FUEL INCASE OF IMPACT)
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 6 GY/O
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 3 (MINE WAS EMPTY)

Took pictures of all gauge settings prior to pulling dash apart and removing needles from panel.
After I got everything together (re-pinning) I left face lens off to expose needles so I could set them correctly.

I then started the truck let it idle for 20 minutes set my RPM needle at just below 1000 RPM from picture I took, I put my other needles approx center setting for my TEMP, OIL, and BATTERY. Then I drove to fuel station filled tank and set fuel needle just slightly to right edge of black marker above the F, (it use to go way past the F before but I do not mind having a little reserve fuel in take). then set up my GPS drove to the freeway and set my cruise control to 60MPH and set my Speedometer needle to match,

I then Drove home seated all my needles to correct height as to not hit/scrap on panels.
Been doing fine for the week I have been driving it. And it looks GREAT......

Also I used new Needles I bought off EBAY
The only mod I had to do to get them to fit correctly was cut them shorter to set on pins of gauges and for the Battery I pulled the metal tab out of original needle and drilled a bit larger hole in the ebay needle and push the metal tab into the new needle and it set just fine on the battery gauge no gluing or other mod and it is not sloppy or loose works like factory.

Hope this helps others with a 2001 Explorer white face cluster panel swap into a 1995 Ford Ranger......???

 

[boominXplorer]

I just want to add to this thread as I just did the sport gauges into a 96 ranger.

The way I did the temp gauge instead of above is I replace the single wire 96 temp sensor to the newer 97+ style 2 pin sensor. The new style sensor is self grounding so only 1 pin in needed. Here's a pic of the sensor I used.