How-To: 1st Gen Ball Joints / U Joints / Spindle Bearings | Page 5 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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How-To: 1st Gen Ball Joints / U Joints / Spindle Bearings

Tbars4

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...Thank you sir..:salute:

..Two different Ranger books and 1 refers to the 2wd only..:rolleyes:
 
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Maniak

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IF you get the SPC style which looks like a nut on the top you can actually adjust them to the Camber you want BUT, as you do that you also mess with your caster..

If you don't know how far off you are now, all you can do is guess and find one that will be at least big enough and then they will adjust it to get you the camber you need.

You can get the SPC ones from oriely's and other chain places too.

One thing to keep in mind, you get different amounts of adjustment if your 2wd or 4wd.

This post shows the part #'s and how much adjustment you can get on both 4wd and 2wd.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2811362&postcount=10

~Mark
 
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Roadrunner777

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I picked up a digital level and it's a process, but I figured out how to measure camber.

I'm in the final stages of doing the work from this thread. I was on it for 12 hours yesterday, and about 10 today. I figure I have another 10 to finish it up. I have not been this sore and tired in a long time. But I look back at what I have accomplished and it's all good.

I had one universal bad, and I didn't understand the inside clip deal. I couldn't see the clips for the rust either. I ultimately used a cutoff saw and cut the old universal out. The new universal is a greasable one, with a fitting on the end of one of the caps. It's like it is supposed to take a needle or something. Anyway, I decided to drill and tap it to a regular fitting. But, I had no idea how hard the steel is in those caps. Drilling and tapping took over 2 hours, and I killed a bunch of bits.

My spindles were stuck on to the knuckle really tight. I ultimately used a superficial wood chisel and that separated it nicely.

I used a pickle fork to assist in the knuckle removal, and it seemed to make the job a lot easier.

I have been using Timken for everything I could on this job. I ended up using an Federal-Mogal universal joint, and I'm really happy to say that all the parts where made in the USA.

Do not install the little clip on the brake pad backwards! It faces away from the disc. If you put it on backwards, it will kill the rotor and pads in short order.

So, hey, thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread, I must have read it a dozen times before doing the work, and it really helped a lot.
 
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Tbars4

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...I wanted to add this in here..:D

..After doing a few sets of these ball joints recently, the only hiccup I have run across-ed was what pliers to use for the cir-clips..

..After bending a few different pair and sending clips flying in every direction, I found these and they work awesome for removing and installing these clips with ease..

...These actually open wide enough for the big clips and also the little clips without bending..:biggthump

1122111344.jpg


1122111344a.jpg
 
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richmc

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must say thanks for this write up,did mine this weekend,and refered to this a couple times this weekend.my only issuse was the anti rattle clip mine never had one well atleast as long as i have had it,could some one tell me or show me how they go on?Thanks again!!!!
 
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Tbars4

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LXNavajo_94

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I completed this project today one thing I would add to this is DO NOT take the nut on the lower joint off. I left it on there about 3 threads and used a pickle fork to remove the knuckle by driving it in from the front side and prying down on it. When I was on the drivers side I thought now when this comes loose and I have all my weight on it where am I gonna end up so I put the nut back on. You could also set your floor jack up under it and as it comes loose slowly lower the jack so when it pops loose you will have something to catch it. Other than that little tid bit Make sure you have the 12 point 6mm 1/4 drive socket my drivers side was so rusted I ended up rounding mine off to the point nothing would have ever gotten it out of there so I ended up drilling it out from the front side I used a bit the next size up tapped it and put in a normal stainless steel hex so of course to even things out I had to do the same thing on the passengers sdie even though the bolt came right out
 
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djstizzle

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whelp, i got thru this project somehow. poor choice for a first timer trying to learn vehicles a bit >.<

anyways, the camber of my wheels seems to be a bit off, i got both tires kinda leaning in at the top to make a teepee shape. went to get an alignment, hoping that would solve the issue, the shop said my wheel bearings were loose? Is this what is causing my camber to tilt?

Any help on making sure the wheel bearings aren't loose & the camber issue is corrected is much appreciated.
 
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CTroxtell

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whelp, i got thru this project somehow. poor choice for a first timer trying to learn vehicles a bit >.<

anyways, the camber of my wheels seems to be a bit off, i got both tires kinda leaning in at the top to make a teepee shape. went to get an alignment, hoping that would solve the issue, the shop said my wheel bearings were loose? Is this what is causing my camber to tilt?

Any help on making sure the wheel bearings aren't loose & the camber issue is corrected is much appreciated.

Raise the front end of your vehicle off the ground slightly, grab the left and right side of the tire and try to wiggle it, do the same to the top and bottom...if the wheel bearings are loose or worn out it will have a good bit of play. My X had 220k+ miles on it and my bearings were shot...hope this helps.
 
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djstizzle

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If only I hadn't taken it all apart before you replied... haha. I'll put it back together and test it out after work. During the while, I did get the rotor off to check out the bearing in there; it seems to have A LOT of wiggle room in there. Is this normal, or a sign of the bearings going bad? As mentioned above, the whole tire & wheel on the vehicle would move if that's the case, so I figure this is the same... thanks!

EDIT: So I tested out the loose wheel theory. No movement in the wheel, my next guess is I didn't get the ball joints pressed in correctly? Is this an easy mistake to make? If that's the case, I'll just take it to a shop and make sure its done correctly.
 
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BENSHER

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Got to step 5 with the lower ball joint... tweaked my back! that thing is in there! awesome post! very informative. thought maybe i missed something with the hassle that thing gave me.
 
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bilzy7

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I hate back injuries... I tire a muscle and was bed bound for days.
 
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Themightyquinn

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Hi. Great tutorial. I just did the ball joints on my 92 XLT. One thing i think u missed was to drain the front diff before pulling the cv shafts. I pulled the driver side out first and gear oil poured out. Oops! :) :usa:
 
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Maniak

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There is no drain on the front diff. You cant pull the 3rd member away from the beam without loosening the pich bolt which you cant get out without removing the Radius arm from the mount.

~Mark
 
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Themightyquinn

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Im not sure what u r mean my "3rd member". What I meant was you need to pump out the fluid from the drain plug hole cuz the left side cv shaft pulls out from the diff.
 
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IAmTodd

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This was a big help for rebuilding the front end of mine. Besides having to pull it all apart to replace the drivers side seal on the diff its running perfectly.
 
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cmhaah06

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Step 11: Rebuild and reinstall the spindle

A note: The new rebuild kit I used had a different seal arrangement compared to the original, your truck / kit may be different, originally my truck had, in order, bearing - press in seal - plastic plate - small seal on driveshaft. The kit is bearing - rubber v shaped seal - plastic plate - large seal and metal plate on driveshaft.

Put the spindle in the vise with a rag on the 2nd step, remove the plastic piece and pry out the seal with a screwdriver. Then flip it over in the vise, clamp onto the ridge that is on the back (with the rag) and use a long rod or screwdriver and a hammer to pound out the spindle bearing. Push it out evenly by constantly switching which side you are hitting it on.

Clean up the spindle with brake parts cleaner and use the wire wheel on the die grinder to clean off rust and crud on the back part of the spindle, don't do anything to the machined surfaces.

Now take the new spindle bearing, pack it with grease, and use the seal installer, with the correct size driving plate to push the bearing in. Install the new seal, and then stick on the plastic plate with the bevel showing.

What does a seal installer look like? Part number? I'm currently doing my ball joints and rebuilding the spindle is on the list of things to do.
 
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cmhaah06

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Also, whats a good paint to use if I wanted to do a fresh coat of paint on things (knuckles/axle housing) while I'm under there?
 
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