How-To: 1st Gen Ball Joints / U Joints / Spindle Bearings | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How-To: 1st Gen Ball Joints / U Joints / Spindle Bearings

Always consider car payments. I've kept my 91 on the road because with as many problems as it has had, it's still be cheaper then a $300 payment on a newer car. However, it is not my only source of transportation as I do have a slightly newer car (still with no payment) that is my main winter commuter. My 65 mustang is my main summer commuter.

Slade
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Is the Warn hub compatible with the ABS system? I'd like to at least consider replacing the auto hubs with the Warns off my Ranger if the auto hubs die. Then again, the previous owner of the Ranger left me one good auto hub and one broken frome when he put the Warns on. And for some reason, I never threw them away... The TTB D35 off the Ranger is being swapped for a SAS D30, so I have spares (except the spindle threads are mussed up...) for the Ex.
 






the manual hubs will have no effect on abs brakes at all.
 












ABS Sensor Option #2 Using the BFH on it will destroy the sensor, so if it is stuck you will have to leave it in. Unclip the wiring clamp on the frame and unplug the connector that is up and attached to the radiator support. The sensor will stay as part of the knuckle, and be a pain in the ass the whole time. Its better than spending $60+ on a new one.

I had to go with this option to get mine apart. I tried to chisel off the bolt head to no avail and took the BFH to the sensor protector/bracket. :rolleyes:

I'm not sure if the dealer still has them.

The stealerships still have them in inventory for $21.00 each.

Really nice write up and great pics!
 






Does the left side axle seal go in the differential, or does it sit inside the hole that the axle goes thru? Putting it back together, and I'm not quite sure how it was when I removed it.
 






how do i get ahold of tht god darn 12 pt 6 mm
 












Try Sears or Snap On I'd say. I need to remember to get one myself. Needs to be a 1/4 inch drive one also.
 












cause its a tight fit to get a socket in there, an 1/4 is the only size that will fit in the space.
 






Additional info for U joints......

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm

Dead Link Removed

Past notes from other posters.....

"Always a good idea to mark'em so they go back exactly to original position...hind sight."

and........

"If there are any splined sections where the driveline goes together, it must be assembled so that all of the u-joints are in line.

i.e, if you assemble it so that one u-joint is rotated 45 degrees out of phase with the others, it will shake like a sumbish..."

Aloha, Mark
 






need a little help

94 ford explorer when wheel is turned to left while backing up and then pulls to the right when going forward direction. if you turn wheel right as when making a full right hand turn the vehicle hops to left and then steering corrects itself. the problem starts up again if you back up with the steering wheel turned left. also there are 2 different size u joints 1.0" (cap diameter or 1.18" diameter. which one did you use? any help would be appreciated. thanks.
 






i am getting ready to do these in the morning and it will be my first time doing ball joints on any vehicle...if im not replacing the u-joints then i don't need to take out the driveshaft correct?? i know its a stupid question, but i don't want to mess anything up and replace things that i don't need to
 






Ball Joint Replacement

yes you have to remove the spindles/driveshaft. I recommend that you replace the u joints while you are there. Good replacements are about $20 a piece. you will need 3 of them. Check out this link it is excellent

http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254

have plenty of rust buster and make sure you use high quality ball joints with grease fittings. you can also get u-joints with grease fittings. also the same ball joint removal tool can be used to press out the u joints. get new bearing grease seals for the rotors and check the wheel bearings. Good Luck!
 






This is exactly what I need to do as I broke my u-joint at Rausch about a month ago. I've had a hell of a time tracking down an axle and then my head gasket blew. Despite the wonderful how to's from every one here, these are two jobs I'm going to hand over to the local truck shop.
 






Hey guys, i'm changing my brakes and cleaning my auto hub and my front axle u-joints are really nasty and was wondering if i have to disconnect the tie-rod to pull them out or is there any alternative to check if the u-joints are bad. Thanks guys
 






How does one tell if the ball joints upper and lower are bad? I have had my local tire shop tell me the right side is bad, but I want to be sure.
 






jack the front of your truck and grab your wheel and try to move it up and down (North-south) if there is movement your ball joints are probably shot
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





jack the front of your truck and grab the wheel and try to move it up and down (north and south). If there is movement your ball joint are likely to be shot
 






Back
Top