HOW-TO: 2006 V8 4WD Rear Rotor/Pad Change | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

HOW-TO: 2006 V8 4WD Rear Rotor/Pad Change

TowingExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
408
Reaction score
0
City, State
Central MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited V8
*** Go HERE for a 2 year update.

I have smelt a burning brake smell in the back of my Explorer a few times now after some highway driving. It's not easy to duplicate as it just doesn't happen every time.

First, I looked on both sides of the rotor with the wheel still installed with a flashlight. I saw some grooving, but nothing severe. Next, I took my Explorer to Sears for a free brake inspection hoping they would find something which I didn't with a flashlight. They spent 90 minutes determined to find something which would cause a burning smell but could not. What they did find was that my front rotors would be below spec the next time they were turned and the rear rotors were already below spec. Good to know, just added this to the list of things to do to vehicles around the house. All the pads looked good, could tell that with the flashlight, but the grooves would mean that I would not want to mate those up against new rotors anyway, so gotta replace them.

Doing some more research, I found that the shoes in the e-brake tend to crack and fall off inside the drum which could have explained the smell if they were just wearing off so I picked up a set at AutoZone as they are a stocking item.

I had done some research about brake upgrades for the 2006+ model and found that the rears were shared with the prior generation. However, the fronts had changed in 2006+. I messaged someone on here who had installed some Magnum rotors and they responded that things were still going well. I mailed the guy who sells them on eBay for a deal on a set of 4 as they had deals on other sets of 4 for earlier models, they combined the shipping and that was it... oh well, better than nothing. It did take about 5 days longer to ship than they said it would and I had no recourse since that was an invoice outside of eBay. . . oh well, at least I finally got them.

This write-up is for the rear rotor and pad swap only. I did not change the e-brake shoes or springs as they moved freely and there were no cracks in the friction surfaces.

Before picture...


Wheel's off...




Before behind shot...


Remove two 10mm bolts which hold the caliper to the knuckle.


Caliper's off. Took a little persuasion with a pry bar (no hammer). The slides moved easily as well so they were not seized at all.


Tools used so far aside from the lug nut socket and 10mm socket. The C-Clamp was used to push the caliper piston back in so that the old pads could get over the slight ridge on the rotor.


Another shot of the old pads...


Zip tied the caliper to the spring so it wouldn't be hanging by the brake line.




Rotor before pulling...




Squirted a little PB Blaster around where the rotor met the hub assembly. Then just wiggled back and forth and it finally came off.


Rotor's removed. Little dust inside from the e-brake shoes.


What we now see...




Some shoe/spring shots...




New rotor. Wiped down the friction surfaces first with some brake cleaner...




New pads...




The Explorer is a little different than other vehicles I've worked on. Other vehicles, you can do just what I am showing in the below picture. HOWEVER the clips which go in to the piston (at a minimum) keep you from pushing the caliper piston around the rotor. Perhaps if you had pads which didn't have those clips you could do it this way.

Another difference between the X and other vehicles I've worked on is that you must remove two 10mm bolts (mentioned very early in the pictures). On other vehicles it was just one bolt and the caliper would then pivot on the other side. In this case, even attempting to do that the caliper hits the hub assembly so that just doesn't work.


Pads and caliper installed...




Wheel's back on...




Taken the Explorer out for a couple drives now and it's going well. No burning smell other than possibly the brake cleaner. Only time will tell if I get that burning brake smell again or not considering I didn't change the shoes.

As I had mentioned at the beginning, I bought shoes. If these didn't look as great as they did, I would have tried longer to change them. But removing that axle nut I couldn't get the assembly with the lug studs off to get a better view at the springs. Maybe someone else can chime in on how this is accomplished.

Hope this helps others out there! I think the 2006-2010 section is lacking pictorials so I am trying to contribute.
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




jupiterak

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 21, 2008
Messages
397
Reaction score
2
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Explorer EB V8 4x4
Very nice writeup. The only thing I recommend is using some brake caliper grease on the highlighted yellow areas so the pads can move/slide freely. And alittle grease on the backside of the pads where it snaps onto the caliper. This can help reduce noise.

img1496d.jpg
 
<



TowingExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
408
Reaction score
0
City, State
Central MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited V8
Thanks for the comment jupiterak. I agree on the yellow parts, and normally would on the pad backers if they didn't have the clips like these do.

I did the fronts today and will do a write-up soon. Was pretty straight forward and more like other vehicles I had worked on than these were.
 
<



jupiterak

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 21, 2008
Messages
397
Reaction score
2
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Explorer EB V8 4x4
Just curious how much did the rotors cost? Thanks
 
<



crudster

Member
Joined
April 12, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 XLT
Excellent post, i like the pictures. I did my back brakes today with similar cross drilled rotors. They made a pretty cool whistling noise while the pads bed in on the back.

I'm interested in reading your guide on the front brakes to see if i made a mistake (my brakes make a grinding noise at low speed when warm / hot) but otherwise work perfectly fine.


Ohh and a tip to add when removing the back rotors. Be prepared to the beat the living **** out of the rotor with a hammer to remove it. You will need to reef on it and beat it senseless if they've been on and accumulated some rust. The drum pads on the inside wear a groove in and catch when sliding the rotor off. I found it was easier if i drive around and got them warm then used gloves to remove. Uncomfortable when pulling on it but seemed to loosen things a bit.
 
<



TowingExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
408
Reaction score
0
City, State
Central MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited V8
What brand/type of pads and rotors did you use crudster?

I am doing my write-up right now on the fronts, watch my sig for the link in the next 20 mins or so.
 
<



TowingExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
408
Reaction score
0
City, State
Central MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited V8
Just curious how much did the rotors cost? Thanks
I must have missed this reply. They cost me $268 shipped from the guy selling the Magnum rotors on eBay. I saw he was selling sets of 4 for the 3g but not for the 4g. I think I basically saved some shipping when I looked at the separate auctions.

Unfortunately, because it was outside of eBay, even though he said they would go out that monday/tuesday (paid Sunday), they didn't actually hit UPS till that Friday which meant I was delayed almost a whole week on the project.
 
<



johnni

New Member
Joined
October 3, 2010
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT
X rear brk caliper removal

Hey, 1st. post..hope I'm in the right spot. I was looking for info on rear pad replacement and couldn't find ANY detailed info until I very gratefully found this site and this thread. Anyway I finished the front brakes, moved onto the rear and got stuck. After removing the 2/10mm. bolts from caliper rear, cant remove the caliper. I get a little "jiggle" of movement but it's not coming off without prying and maybe some hammering too. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something like a hidden bolt. Also under tools used, I noticed the C-clamp. Did you compress the piston before removing the caliper? This would make sense but I can't see how to make this happen. Your info is really good and the photo's are great. I will be replacing the rotor on the passenger side (it isn't gouged but has wavy surface), so hopfully EB shoes are OK but could be trouble. Thanks.
 
<



TowingExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
408
Reaction score
0
City, State
Central MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited V8
Hey, 1st. post..hope I'm in the right spot. I was looking for info on rear pad replacement and couldn't find ANY detailed info until I very gratefully found this site and this thread. Anyway I finished the front brakes, moved onto the rear and got stuck. After removing the 2/10mm. bolts from caliper rear, cant remove the caliper. I get a little "jiggle" of movement but it's not coming off without prying and maybe some hammering too. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something like a hidden bolt. Also under tools used, I noticed the C-clamp. Did you compress the piston before removing the caliper? This would make sense but I can't see how to make this happen. Your info is really good and the photo's are great. I will be replacing the rotor on the passenger side (it isn't gouged but has wavy surface), so hopfully EB shoes are OK but could be trouble. Thanks.

Great to hear someone else is finding use from my write-up!

From memory, I believe those two 10mm bolts are all you will need to remove just to pull the caliper out of the way. It may be difficult to tell the size, but that C-Clamp in my picture can open to about 9" wide. I quite possibly did compress the caliper piston slightly prior to swinging it away from the bracket. Put one side of the caliper (the side with the handle) on the pad and the other side on the back of the caliper. Be careful not to place the other side of the clamp on the line or even the bolt for the line as you do not want to damage any of that. Then tighten the clamp and the piston, if not seized, should retract into the caliper and release the pads.

I think the 2002 has the same rear disc as my 2006, so these pictures should be nearly identical to what you are seeing.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out!
 
<



TowingExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
408
Reaction score
0
City, State
Central MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited V8
Well, two years later now and I've been driving the Explorer less and less now that I have a Fusion for my backup "reliable vehicle" to the others. That said, following a record setting low snow winter, the rotors mostly sat and rusted.

Took a look at them after a long braking down a hill followed by a heavy burning brake smell. Investigated and the pads were fine but, as you'll see, the rotors have rusted from the holes quite a bit and I decided to replace them.





Here's the new blanks I put on.
 
<



Top