How to: 3rd Gen LED Halo Headlight Mod | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 3rd Gen LED Halo Headlight Mod

jsotomar

Active Member
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City, State
Philadelphia, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Ford Explorer XLT
Hi All...Creating this to showing all how to mod your own headlights with Halo's!

{Order did get a little screwed up with the color purchase of the LED rings, but still looks good :) }



:ttiwwp:



First off, took me about 2 hours for first light, then 30 minutes for 2nd light. Things you will need for mod:


1. 160mm (2 Rings) = $25. Most come as a set. For Low-Beam housing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181015550835?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

2. 100mm (2 Rings) = $15. Most come as a set. For High-Beam Housing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181001184119?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

3. Rotary Tool. Bought from Harbor Frieght = $15 (Best thing ever since slice bread)
http://www.harborfreight.com/80-piece-rotary-tool-kit-97626.html

4. Hot Glue gun and sticks

5. Clear (caulk) Silicone

6. 18 Gauge Wire, Solder, Soldering Iron, Black Tape

7. 9V Battery


NOTE:
Cut = Cut hole with Rotary tool all the way through headlight housing (Making a hole)
Slice = Make an incision with Rotary tool **NOT a HOLE**, this will allow more sturdiness and grip the ring can hold onto.

TEST LED Rings, before gluing to headlight housing.


...Alright here we go...



1. Take Headlight out by pulling up on two tabs on the back of the headlight.


2. Remove 4 metal clips that hold the clear plastic to the headlight housing. Then Remove the Clear plastic, might be hard because there will be old sealant. Just be careful to pry with a screwdriver, and not go Hulk on it and break headlight pieces. My headlight did not need to be put in the oven, but if yours is too hard to open/pry, you might want to consider the oven.


3. Place the clear plastic aside. Make the measurements of how you want the 160mm ring to look. The 100mm will basically fit right on.

IMG_20121121_190834.jpg




4. When cutting hole for 160mm ring, make sure you keep testing the fitment of the ring in the hole. Don't want to get too crooked, or leaning. If I were to do it again, I might have cut the hole a little bit farther towards the back to sit more flush.

IMG_20121122_005309.jpg




5.Here I made a slice for the 160mm ring. A little deep enough to hold the ring, but not enough to go through the headlight housing.

IMG_20121122_005254.jpg




6. This is the back of the Low-Beam housing. You can see where I made the cut for the ring. Enough room to fit, but not alot so it won't be dangling.

IMG_20121122_005122.jpg




7. Now to the 100mm. Make a slice just like in the picture. Forgot to take a picture of the hole I made for this ring, but I think its pretty self-explanatory. For reference, look at Picture1. You can see where I put the arrow for cutting the hole.

IMG_20121122_005233.jpg




8. Once you're done with fitting the rings, take them out. Clean the housing with a towel/air compressor. (There will be alot of dust).


9. Remove the crappy red/black wires that come with it (Their eventually going to break loose, might as well replace them now). With your new wire, solder them on to the + / - leads. Make sure the wire will fit through the holes you cut earlier.

Picture shows wire being ran though hole.

IMG_20121122_005133.jpg




10. Once all new wires are soldered, test fit one last time. If you're good with your results, it's ready to HOT GLUE! First make sure the rings are in notch with the Slices; and the wire would no have to problem routing through the hole as it sits. Run the wires through the hole at this time.


11. While holding the ring firmly against the housing, glue the back of the ring. I glued the ring basically like a compass. N - S - W - E . With 4 glue points, your ring should be good. Be sure to glue the back of where you made the ring is in the slice as well.


12. Glue the holes that were cut. Make sure to press into the hole with the glue gun, so the glue can spread easily inside the hole. Don't put too much or the glue will overfill onto the chrome housing, and can be visible. Also, turn the headlight around and glue the back of the holes. This will allow more strength and less crap to get in.


13. In the end, you will get something like the picture below. Also a good idea, too clean the headlight again at this point. I used a soft cloth from autozone (Microfiber).

IMG_20121122_005202.jpg




14. At this point, you can connect both +'s together, and both -'s together. Connect them to the 9V battery for testing.


Not bad at all for my first try...

IMG_20121122_005652.jpg




15. After testing and cleaning, remove the old silicone on the headlight where the clear plactic went. Apply new silicone into the slot, and put the clear plastic back on headlight. While holding firmly, put back on metal clips. If clips seem too loose, then tights with a pair of needle nose pliers.


16. Let sealant cure, then put headlight back on. Run wires to DRL fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Secure wires with zip ties. (Everyone loves a clean install)


*Haven't posted up pictures of headlights installed because I still need to run the wires to fuse box. That will be hopefully tonight.


:salute:



Others:

IMG_20121122_005659.jpg




IMG_20121122_005708.jpg



Thanks for Looking!!
 



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Nice work and thanks for sharing :)

Cant wait to see pics of them installed.
 






Have new pics. Will upload them.

Ques. to moderators/admins- Can you switch this thread to "Performance Lighting"
 






Looking forward to the finished pics.
 






Sorry for the wait, every time i get home I just want to sleep. Phone camera quality sucks, and there is no glare in person like the pic has. Ill try to take a couple more shots with an actual camera next time. The farther i got from the truck, the more camera glare. LED ring is much brighter (but still consistent/not blinding) than the halogen.

At the moment, i have the rings connected to low-beam fuse, but I will be running through firewall and connect to radio or ignition fuse this weekend. I might be changing the green to white though.



This is how it looks at night in person, though light emitted is much brighter...

IMG_20121203_213641.jpg




This is the massive glare from the phone camera

IMG_20121203_213615.jpg




Another glare shot

IMG_20121203_213624.jpg
 






I might remove the clear reflector and take more pics tonite
 






thumbs up, if I have questions when doing mine I will ask you!
at the same time it might be a good time to tint the lens too? id say so
 






thanks....yea i am, but havent had the time with work and school. There was a little problem with getting the ring purchase though. I ordered on ebay, and requested green for both sets. After purchase, seller told me they dont have green- they have white. I said ok. After shipment, they sent me green 160mm and 100mm white...lol. But now i want white on both sets, So i will be changing them.

My next project will be retrofit projectors and 8000k HID's, and same thing for fog.
 






Have any pics with the all white halos?
 






at the moment i dont, but i will be buying the big rings in white soon. Dont like the green as i thought i would. I think white would look badass

this site has the white rings installed. but its only showing the headlights on a table or something, not with the truck itself....
http://flashtechusa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74
 






a photo edited ex

IMG_20130124_110129_zps58ca9987.jpg
 






Hi, great thread, liked it so much im doing it myself. I already purchased the led rings and wire and had a question about wiring. I dont have fog lights and for that reason i dont believe i have a drl module. Would i have to go get one or could i wire it straight to the fuse, if i could, some directions or pictures would be great. Thanks
 






I had the same problem, dont have fog lights either. If you run to the DRL fuse, the lights would just stay on even after you turn off the engine.

Im not at home to take pictures but ill see what i can find on the online. But here's what i did:

Connected both (-)'s together from rings. Connected both (+) from rings. You should make a Y with the wires, so less messy. Connect (-) to chassis. Run (+) through the rubber boot. The boot should be on the driver side, far down to the right. Kind of hard to get to, so push through a metal hanger from the inside of the car. If you look to the left of the brake pedal, there should a panel. You need to push the hanger through under the panel and through rubber boot hole. Tie the (+) onto the hanger, and pull on the hanger from the inside of the car. Once the wire is passed through the boot, connect to the Radio fuse. I think this is 15A maybe? This is will allow the lights will turn on whenever the radio turns on.

Sorry for the large pic :confused:
t_07z2004_Ford_Explorer_XLTEngine_View_zpsbcd24d58.jpg
 






I had the same problem, dont have fog lights either. If you run to the DRL fuse, the lights would just stay on even after you turn off the engine.

Im not at home to take pictures but ill see what i can find on the online. But here's what i did:

Connected both (-)'s together from rings. Connected both (+) from rings. You should make a Y with the wires, so less messy. Connect (-) to chassis. Run (+) through the rubber boot. The boot should be on the driver side, far down to the right. Kind of hard to get to, so push through a metal hanger from the inside of the car. If you look to the left of the brake pedal, there should a panel. You need to push the hanger through under the panel and through rubber boot hole. Tie the (+) onto the hanger, and pull on the hanger from the inside of the car. Once the wire is passed through the boot, connect to the Radio fuse. I think this is 15A maybe? This is will allow the lights will turn on whenever the radio turns on.

Sorry for the large pic :confused:
t_07z2004_Ford_Explorer_XLTEngine_View_zpsbcd24d58.jpg

Thanks that helps a lot but somewhere in that process would i be able to put in a switch so i could control if they are on or off?
 






Figured id show you guys an update, got the rings put into the housing and
everything wired up. I decided to just get the power straight from the battery.
All that needs to be done now is to cut a hole in the dash for the switch. Will
post pics of them installed later, thanks for the help everyone.

IMG_9583_zps56ae34aa.jpg
 






Cant seem to find these in purple =(
 






They look awesome!...i didnt want a switch because ill keep forgetting to turn them on/off. ...lol

As for purple, i dont think i seen that color for LED...buuuuuuttttt they have them for CCFL....EXPENSIVE! :mattmoon:
Purple CCFL Rings -$84.99 for 100mm. I would imagine the 160mm (which they do have) would be more expensive.

So, if you were to get the CCFL, you would end up spending over $170 for (4) rings...
 






Ordered mine from China about a month ago, Received them the other day, cant wait to put mine on!

Website if anyone is interested:

www.focalprice.com
 



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Ordered mine from China about a month ago, Received them the other day, cant wait to put mine on!

Website if anyone is interested:

www.focalprice.com

funny you say that, I ordered mine from China a month ago too.. I think its supposed to be delivered 10/31/2020 lol not really but still a long time! Post a pic of your lookin forward to seeing them!
 






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