How to: How To: AVM Hub Conversion, 2006 Ranger

[albi1cnobi1]

So your dash switch says "2Hi-4Hi-4Lo" ? And you say it is a 2nd gen drive train. If that's the case then this will work for you. It is a very straight forward swap, fairly easy. Acquire your parts and have at it!

 

[motorhead7635]

yea but i put new wheelbarings in it 8,000 miles ago so i wont be swiching vary soon, but it will be in befor winter, and i love the buy american, uninployment made in china lol

 

[Glen4X4]

the 02 is a mix between a 2gen and a 3gen if you get a sport its like a 3gen body and a 2 gen frame and drive train. and i dont need to the brown wire mod it came with a non auto 2wd.

The 02 sport is the same thing as a 2nd gen just a few appearance changes otherwise the drive train is the same. So you can perform this modification.

 

[jds3403]

so as asked previously, are there any changes in fuel mileage?

 

[Glen4X4]

Ok jds there would be some fuel mileage gained by maybe a mile or so per gallon, its not a significant increase but also because you have a 5.0 you would need to change your transfer case to a BW4406 because the awd transfer case connecting to both axles keeps the truck parked and if the front axle does not give resistance as it would do so with hubs unlocked then a good chance is the truck will roll away. Yes you could engage the E-brake or lock the hubs as soon as you park but someday you may forget and then who knows what may happen just my .02 but is true..

 

[jds3403]

Ok jds there would be some fuel mileage gained by maybe a mile or so per gallon, its not a significant increase but also because you have a 5.0 you would need to change your transfer case to a BW4406 because the awd transfer case connecting to both axles keeps the truck parked and if the front axle does not give resistance as it would do so with hubs unlocked then a good chance is the truck will roll away. Yes you could engage the E-brake or lock the hubs as soon as you park but someday you may forget and then who knows what may happen just my .02 but is true..

way ahead of you as the 4406 sits nicely under my frame rails, thanks for the input but deciding to put avm hubs under my truck will be made with all the right conditions met first

 

[BonesDT]

How come when last winter when my bearings blew, every post I researched my head off said there was no easy bolt way to add manual hubs to a 2nd Gen Ex??? Now all of a sudden I'm hearing there's an OEM solution out for over a decade!

No, the AVMs are not as strong as the live axle setup.

Compared to the Warn hubs, I would the AVMs are not quite as strong - but I could be mistaken. One thing I do not like about the AVMs are the way they mount - the body is plastic, and it just pushes onto the hub. It looks like a weak link to me.

In my case, this truck doesn't see serious off-road use, so I don't foresee a problem. dkchrist has AVMs on his truck, and has not had any problems - so I don't worry too much about them.

Wait, what is the purpose of this conversion then? I always thought manual hubs were stronger than the autos and that's why you downgrade the convenience. Are those bearings stronger than the auto bearings or is the only difference the gear teath on the end?

Correction: where i say "autos", I meant "live".

 

[Scott B.]

...I always thought manual hubs were stronger than the autos and that's why you downgrade the convenience. Are those bearings stronger than the auto bearings or is the only difference the gear teath on the end?

The unit (hub) bearings are the same for the live axle and the lockable axle - that is not the issue.

The weakness is in the hub itself. Actually, the hub guts (splined pieces locking the axle to the hub) are quite strong. The hub body is made of something in the plastic family, and is not as strong as an aluminum or steel one. While the splined pieces probably won't fail, the body holding the splined pieces may.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

In the case of the AVM hubs, the weakness lies in Fords original design. The OEM hubs for the Ranger mount on the end of the steering knuckle by way of plastic(I say plastic, it could be kevlar for all I know) tabs that catch on a ridge on the knuckle. The AVMs copy this design. The manual hubs themselves are quite well made, I've had them on for a while now with no problems what so ever.

 

[Carguy3J]

The unit (hub) bearings are the same for the live axle and the lockable axle - that is not the issue.

The weakness is in the hub itself. Actually, the hub guts (splined pieces locking the axle to the hub) are quite strong. The hub body is made of something in the plastic family, and is not as strong as an aluminum or steel one. While the splined pieces probably won't fail, the body holding the splined pieces may.

Actually, the bearing/hub assembly is definitely different on the "live axle", vs the manual/PVM hubs. At least the ones on my '99 Explorer are. The recess of the bearing/hub assembly is shallower than the Ranger PVM one shown in this thread. The id of the Explorer hub has no "teeth" for the locking hub's outer splines to engage (the splines around the od of the locking hub body.)

Unfortunately I just put brand new hubs and cv axles on my Explorer, so I don't think this is financially feasible for awhile; but I would like to do this eventually. My only goal for doing so would be to be able to disenage the front axle/diff in the summer, to improve mpg. In fact, I'd probably cover up the dial w/ a full center cap, and only unlock/lock them twice a year, in spring/fall.

Given the motivation behind this, a blinking 4x4 light for 6 months out of the year is simply unacceptable; as is any additional mod that would compromise the Auto 4wd, or 4hi/4lo functions when I want them active. Therefor, swapping to a 4x2/V8-AWD GEM is not an option. If I did the brown wire mod along with this, and used it to disable the TCC at times when the hubs were unlocked, would that prevent the GEM from having any "hissy fits" about the front drive shaft not turning? What about the ABS? If the GEM thinks the wheel speed sensors are not reliable, isn't the ABS deactivated?

As long as this can be done "cleanly", with no "lights" or computer faults, then it could be a very useful mod. In fact, this could make the brown wire mod actually do something useful. With the front diff disconnected from the wheels, 2wd dyno runs, and the occasional burnout, and long term daily driving in 2wd no longer pose a risk of overheating the TCC, since it would no longer be turning against resistance from the front drivetrain. Alternatively, you could lock the the TCC on, with the the 4hi setting, and leave the hubs unlocked. No slippage at all for the TCC , but still only rwd.

 

[dkchrist]

Bones-

Hubs can act as a Fuse. I feel better knowing most likely I will explode a hub and save an axle. This will allow me to still drive off the trail (one less wheel powered but no problem)

 

[Carguy3J]

Actually, the bearing/hub assembly is definitely different on the "live axle", vs the manual/PVM hubs. At least the ones on my '99 Explorer are. The recess of the bearing/hub assembly is shallower than the Ranger PVM one shown in this thread. The id of the Explorer hub has no "teeth" for the locking hub's outer splines to engage (the splines around the od of the locking hub body.)

Unfortunately I just put brand new hubs and cv axles on my Explorer, so I don't think this is financially feasible for awhile; but I would like to do this eventually. My only goal for doing so would be to be able to disenage the front axle/diff in the summer, to improve mpg. In fact, I'd probably cover up the dial w/ a full center cap, and only unlock/lock them twice a year, in spring/fall.

Given the motivation behind this, a blinking 4x4 light for 6 months out of the year is simply unacceptable; as is any additional mod that would compromise the Auto 4wd, or 4hi/4lo functions when I want them active. Therefor, swapping to a 4x2/V8-AWD GEM is not an option. If I did the brown wire mod along with this, and used it to disable the TCC at times when the hubs were unlocked, would that prevent the GEM from having any "hissy fits" about the front drive shaft not turning? What about the ABS? If the GEM thinks the wheel speed sensors are not reliable, isn't the ABS deactivated?

As long as this can be done "cleanly", with no "lights" or computer faults, then it could be a very useful mod. In fact, this could make the brown wire mod actually do something useful. With the front diff disconnected from the wheels, 2wd dyno runs, and the occasional burnout, and long term daily driving in 2wd no longer pose a risk of overheating the TCC, since it would no longer be turning against resistance from the front drivetrain. Alternatively, you could lock the the TCC on, with the the 4hi setting, and leave the hubs unlocked. No slippage at all for the TCC , but still only rwd.

Anybody have an answer?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

In the 99 the PCM doesn't use the speed sensors in the t-case for the ABS functions. The sensors in the front and rear axles are used for ABS functions, the speed sensors in the t-case are strictly for the control trac system functions. I've done this mod, so I can speak from experience in saying the ABS is un-affected. Also, doing the brown wire mod won't stop the blinking lights it only disables the TOD clutch. I think Scott was saying that the bearing assemblies are the same strength wise, not in design. The one major difference that makes this mod possible is that one bearing/hub is splined and one is not.

 

[Carguy3J]

In the 99 the PCM doesn't use the speed sensors in the t-case for the ABS functions. The sensors in the front and rear axles are used for ABS functions, the speed sensors in the t-case are strictly for the control trac system functions. I've done this mod, so I can speak from experience in saying the ABS is un-affected. Also, doing the brown wire mod won't stop the blinking lights it only disables the TOD clutch. I think Scott was saying that the bearing assemblies are the same strength wise, not in design. The one major difference that makes this mod possible is that one bearing/hub is splined and one is not.

Sorry, I had a brain fart, and got that backwards, about the wheels speed sensors/ABS deal.

Still, a blinking dash light, for 6 months is not cool. Any ideas on how to prevent the Control Trac from getting upset? How many speed senors in the t-case? 2 (front and rear output shafts?) Are they the same? if so, why not just "spoof" the one for the front shaft, so the computer thinks it's turning the same speed as the rear? If it was setup with a switch or something, you could have the "spoof" active when the front hubs were unlocked, then switch it back to the normal sensors when you want 4x4. In fact, doing that, a brown wire mod wouldn't be needed. If the computer thinks the front/rear are turning exactly the same speed, then no slippage= no attempt to engage the TCC; right?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I suppose you could install a switch that you could leave in a "normal" setting when the front hubs are locked. Then when they are unlocked flip the switch which would disconnect the front sensor and send the rear signal to the front signal wire as well.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

This should work. The low side of both sensors are common. Only the high side needs to be "fooled" so to speak. Simple single pole double throw(SPDT) switch. The center pole of the switch is on the front sensor wire to the GEM. One side to front sensor t-case side other side to rear sensor output.

 

[Baylard]

Hows it doin ?

Hey all,

I may have answered my own question. I picked up a Gem module out of a 99 V8 Mounty at my local u-pull-it yard for $15. There are 2 different modules for the later gen II's. The V-6 Control Trac Ex'es use the 4x4 module. It says 4x4 Control trac a4wd on it. The V-8's use the 4x2 module because there is no input from or control of the transfer case since it is AWD and requires no driver or computer input. I replaced my 4x4 module with a 4x2 module from a V-8 Mounty and my blinking lights are no more. Also I haven't experienced any driveability issues either. My PATS seems to be working fine. My same key starts the truck and my THEFT light is normal. I figured for $15 I might as well try it, and I'm happy to report all seems well. I'll keep everyone updated of any problems that may come up, if any.
Thanks for all your input, Al

I'm getting ready to do this full mod to my 99 ex-sport . Now that its been over a year with your setup , I was wondering if there were any problems that arose with the gem module ?

 

[mikebolk]

Just did this on my 96 explorer sport this weekend everything works great! Pretty straight forward. I think I'm going to get the ford tools for the orange clip just to make life easier for future maintenance.I No blinking lights. just to clarify for anyone with a 96 v6 no modification is needed to avoid blinking lights . I'm working on my first full tank since the swap I will post any mpg difference when she's empty..

 

[delexploder]

I may be missing it but are the knuckles different?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

The only difference in the knuckles are that the ranger knuckles have a vacuum port on them for the vacuum activated hubs. But since the new hubs are manual that vacuum port isn't needed. So the explorer knuckles work fine.