How to: Change thermostat 1991 - 1994 Ford Explorer w/pcs

[mr cribb]

I just did this on my 94' didn't have to remove any pulleys or anything (radiator was already out)

I was able to get at em with my 3/8" drive stuff, not sure where 1/4" would be needed. I used a u joint on the pass side bolt behind the idler, worked perfect.

Thanks for the pics, it helped with the mental prep.

Whats everyone's thought on the 180* stat? I did a search and couldn't find Anything definitive to go 180 over the stock 195 (so I went with 195)

-Charles

I went with the 180* because the 195* was way too hot in the truck for me.

 

[akbossman]

Is the water pump leaking? You'd notice that. Look for leaking from either the weep hole or around the gasket area.

I would change the heater core. In the lower 48 it's a $23 part, might be a tad bit more up there where you're at. It's 4 bolts 2 hose clamps, and prob 15-20 min of work. I think it's the EASIEST part to change.

Thanks. I think the impeller isn't turning. after trying to start with frozen h2o in system...............................and it over heats fast now

 

[MountainMonkey]

awesome thread, helped me out alot.

 

[mr cribb]

awesome thread, helped me out alot.

Glad to be of assistance....

 

[mr cribb]

Since the posting of this thread, the thermostat in pics failed me on 8-31-12, replaced with same type/ temp which failed me on 9-23-12, again replaced with another 180 unit and to my demise it too has failed on 12-30-12.....

SOOOO today I ordered the factory 190 degree unit (an actual MOTORCRAFT thermostat) which costs $25.... I'm not overly happy about shelling out that much money for a dang thermostat, but I am sick and tired of changing out the thermostat every 90 + days (just long enough for the warranty to expire).

The motorcraft thermostat comes with a ONE YEAR warranty getting it from O'Reilly auto parts, I asked the sales person warrantied even if it sticks shut on me? I was told yes, one year warranty from manufacturer.

If you tally up the dollar amount I have spent in thermostats equals the one time cost of the motorcraft unit.

I am hoping this solves my issues, the part is due to arrive next day or so.

 

[Xeek]

got one on rockauto for under $17 shipped

 

[mr cribb]

got one on rockauto for under $17 shipped

Damn that info would have been great to know a few days ago.... oh well for future reference I guess.

 

[oldmodman]

I have had three different thermostats fail in a row. Got less than 2K miles on each one. They all fail in the open position. Stant, Failsafe, and stock Ford.
And with my big fingers I have to remove the alternator, tensioner, and hose to be able to easily get all three bolts in and out.
I would have just left the last bad one in but I needed to get a smog check and I don't think it would have gotten out of the warm up cycle with the open thermostat.
After the second failure I though I might have a warped housing so I replaced that too. Still stuck open after 2600 miles.

 

[mr cribb]

I have had three different thermostats fail in a row. Got less than 2K miles on each one. They all fail in the open position. Stant, Failsafe, and stock Ford.
And with my big fingers I have to remove the alternator, tensioner, and hose to be able to easily get all three bolts in and out.
I would have just left the last bad one in but I needed to get a smog check and I don't think it would have gotten out of the warm up cycle with the open thermostat.
After the second failure I though I might have a warped housing so I replaced that too. Still stuck open after 2600 miles.

It is quite aggravating having to tear apart half your accessories just to change a part, I know your pain.

 

[smegun]

the pictures of the tensioner are different on my 94 there is no single bolt it has 3 bolts into the block to remove the tensioner wheels and after removing the alternator.....

I got two loose easy but wouldn't you know that one bolt is not accessible by socket only way seems to be by wrench first thing that happened is one corner of the bolt got rounded off in-between 13mm and 1/2 inch...... of course I started with 13 ..... bottom bolt had to be tightened a different way during assembly than the other two mabe even a different bag a bolts and vodka for the attendant


id rather do it another way than trying to dremel a bolt off

lesson: even though the bolt is covered by a nice layer of pure black dirty grease dosnt mean its insulated you should always try to soak with PB blaster overnight

talkin about a bad gage and to change the stat yea whats that little thing on top of the stat with a wire going to it turning copper green whitey cowlked and rusty

the thing im working on is a spring loaded flow valve(stat) been nice to do all this at once in the vicinity of a bad gage of confidence

stat 6.99 seal that can only fit the stat 3.99 I ran back for gasket material for the water jacket pipe with a can of flush in the radiator thinking ok easy got back to a d in the dirt

 

[mr cribb]

the pictures of the tensioner are different on my 94 there is no single bolt it has 3 bolts into the block to remove the tensioner wheels and after removing the alternator.....

I got two loose easy but wouldn't you know that one bolt is not accessible by socket only way seems to be by wrench first thing that happened is one corner of the bolt got rounded off in-between 13mm and 1/2 inch...... of course I started with 13 ..... bottom bolt had to be tightened a different way during assembly than the other two mabe even a different bag a bolts and vodka for the attendant


id rather do it another way than trying to dremel a bolt off

lesson: even though the bolt is covered by a nice layer of pure black dirty grease dosnt mean its insulated you should always try to soak with PB blaster overnight

talkin about a bad gage and to change the stat yea whats that little thing on top of the stat with a wire going to it turning copper green whitey cowlked and rusty

the thing im working on is a spring loaded flow valve(stat) been nice to do all this at once in the vicinity of a bad gage of confidence

stat 6.99 seal that can only fit the stat 3.99 I ran back for gasket material for the water jacket pipe with a can of flush in the radiator thinking ok easy got back to a d in the dirt

I had to think about what you were referring to. After removing the belt, my bottom bolt on the tensioner is covered by the pulley as well. What I did was leave the top bolt securely in place and use a breaker bar with a 16mm socket and move the tensioner aside so I could access the bottom bolt.

Of the cheap t-stats I have bought, the o-ring seal was $2 and the stat was $5 I think.

I did ditch the ford "NORMAL" gauge for a live number reading, I find it way more accurate than guessing which letter is what degree.

Don't give up, take a deep breath and re-evaluate the situation.

 

[smegun]

messages from the thermomater id

the pictures of the tensioner are different on my 94 there is no single bolt it has 3 bolts into the block to remove the tensioner wheels and after removing the alternator.....

I got two loose easy but wouldn't you know that one bolt is not accessible by socket only way seems to be by wrench first thing that happened is one corner of the bolt got rounded off in-between 13mm and 1/2 inch...... of course I started with 13 ..... bottom bolt had to be tightened a different way during assembly than the other two mabe even a different bag a bolts and vodka for the attendant


id rather do it another way than trying to dremel a bolt off

lesson: even though the bolt is covered by a nice layer of pure black dirty grease dosnt mean its insulated you should always try to soak with PB blaster overnight

talkin about a bad gage and to change the stat yea whats that little thing on top of the stat with a wire going to it turning copper green whitey cowlked and rusty

the thing im working on is a spring loaded flow valve(stat) been nice to do all this at once in the vicinity of a bad gage of confidence

stat 6.99 seal that can only fit the stat 3.99 I ran back for gasket material for the water jacket pipe with a can of flush in the radiator thinking ok easy got back to a d in the dirt

well all things worked out in the end duh I found even though there different its possible remove the tensioner (to the lower left) to access the complete removal of the stationary pulley and tensioner assembly

but .... it wasn't over the girl at the auto parts dealer gave me the wrong stat you can imagine I called them up right away duh gave me a 54 mm STat instead of a 52mm STat...... also another bolt problem to find out someone was there already made me think duh the stat was replaced at some point :/

they striped the bottom bolt tap but I remyd it with an 8mm headed longer body bolt that catches the tap as it is tapped deeper than the stock 10 mm headed bolt for the water jacket hose cover good case found oil mess waiten to happen


finished my flush found 6 valve cover bolts loose so gettenerdone

 

[Shinryu]

I have to do this soon, anyone tried AutoZone duralast thermostat?

 

[mr cribb]

As a reminder everyone should consider a clutch fan replacement if you're having thermostat failure within a short replacement period.

I went through 3 thermostats before my heads cracked. After new heads and a water pump, I still had overheating issues. After I replaced the fan clutch my cooling problems went away.