How to change your 2005 V6's PCV Valve | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to change your 2005 V6's PCV Valve


Well-Known Member
January 31, 2007
Reaction score
City, State
near Oak Ridge, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Jack Bauer Edition
How to Change the PCV Valve on an 05 V6

Small pair of channel lock pliers or similar
Spare vehicle
Step stool or similar
Flat surface that isn’t part of the car to stage things
Time: Ten minutes easily
Effort: Not much, really
Complexity: Low

The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is an engine component that vents overpressure from the crankcase. That’s it. Really.
Without the PCV, potentially due to leakby from the piston rings, or from a dozen other issues, pressure could build up in the non-piston chamber areas of your motor, and blow out one or more of your seals. In the Olde Days, there was just a fancy cover to keep the oil in, and let the pressure out.
Now, for reasons only known to the ages, the valve reintroduces whatever comes out into the intake to burn off whatever non-air stuff might be in the ventilation stream.
Here’s what the official manual says, if it helps:


Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System Monitor

The PCV monitor consists of a modified PCV system design. The PCV valve is installed into the rocker cover using a quarter-turn cam-lock design to prevent accidental disconnection. High retention force molded plastic lines are used from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The diameter of the lines and the intake manifold entry fitting are increased so that inadvertent disconnection of the lines after a vehicle is repaired will cause either an immediate engine stall or will not allow the engine to be restarted. In the event that the vehicle does not stall if the line between the intake manifold and PCV valve is inadvertently disconnected, the vehicle will have a large vacuum leak that will cause the vehicle to run lean at idle.
This will illuminate the MIL after 2 consecutive driving cycles and will store one or more of the following DTCs: Lack of HO2S sensor switches, bank 1 (P1131 or P2195), Lack of HO2S sensor switches bank 2 (P1151 or P2197), fuel system lean, bank 1 (P0171) or fuel system lean, bank 2 (P0174).
For additional PCV information, refer to Positive Crankcase Ventilation System in this section.

…..which says….

Currently, Ford uses both heated and non -heated PCV systems. The heated systems use either a water heated valve, an electrically heated valve, or an electrically heated tube. Engine coolant flows around the water heated valve to prevent it from freezing. Electrically heated systems use a heating element enclosed in the PCV valve or the PCV tube to prevent the valve or tube from freezing. The valve or the tube heater can be controlled by either the PCM or the thermal harness.
Thermal harness controlled heater — On vehicle applications that are equipped with a thermal harness to the PCV valve or tube, the thermal harness only provides electrical continuity to the heating element when temperatures are less than 5°C +/ - 4°C (40°F +/ - 7°F). Typically this harness is located close to the PCV valve or tube.
PCM controlled heater — On these applications the PCV heater is turned on by the PCM. When the intake air temperature is less than 0°C (32°F) the PCM grounds the positive crankcase ventilation valve heater control (PCVHC) circuit and turns the heater ON. When the intake air temperature exceeds 9°C (48°F) the heater is turned OFF. The PCV heater is also OFF when the engine is not running to prevent unnecessary battery drain. The heater is also OFF if the vehicle charging system is greater than 16 volts. This minimizes heater element overload.

Is it good still?
The older versions of the PCV simply consisted of a metal canister with a metal ball in there. Pressure builds up, ball dislodges, and pressure goes out. Unfortunately, a little oil does too. This eventually builds up and occludes that ball from moving, causing problems. So, you sprayed it out with some carb cleaner, and put it back for another 50k miles.
This one, ohhh no. There’s a weighted piston shape in that plastic body, and it apparently is heated at times. I’m not sure you can clean it. The official Service DVD doesn’t say.

The one I replaced rattled, but it looked like crap, so, screw it – I just replaced it.

How’d you do that, Shawn???
I’m so glad you asked. First, this would be the point where they tell you to chock the wheels, remove the battery terminals, etc. Screw that – live dangerously!! But, keep in mind that you’re going to be leaning over the battery for most of this procedure. Look down. You wearing even a thin metal necklace? Got on metal watches, rings, bracelets? You might get your first lesson in arc welding… take that stuff off. Now, check out your shirt and pants. Anything metal or sharp? Wave goodbye to that paint job. (For stuff like this, I don’t recommend using the big car fender blanket – those things can be slippery).
Witness the majesty of the Ford V6 4.0 liter SOHC powerplant!


Notice the crappy inset? Your target, should you choose to accept it, is back behind that plastic intake and valve cover mess. Ford had almost two feet on each side to mount that stupid pcv – they chose the MOST inopportune, inaccessible place on a valve cover. It’s bad enough, I thought, that I put this off for awhile. It really isn’t too bad, but it sure looks that way, doesn’t it?
Looking at a more close in picture, see that grey tit coming out of the back of the valve cover and going promptly into a hose? That’s it.


Ok, first thing I did was to yank the brake booster line off from the intake manifold. You might not need to; in retrospect, I don’t guess I needed to, either (I didn’t have this spiffy guide, neither!)

Next thing I did was try out a few things to get hold of that cheapass hose clamp back there.


First, I tried what some call ‘nines’, or ‘linemans’ pliers’, or, uh, ‘dykes’. (I don’t get the resemblance, either). There’s no room to maneuver those back there. So, I got my small set of channel lock pliers (I don’t know the generic term, sorry), and pinched, then slid the clamp back to the elbow of the hose.
Next thing I did was get hold of the valve, and twisted. Understand that me and plastical pieces have a bad, bad track record. If this were a movie, there would be a long flashback sequence of me breaking various expensive plastic pieces. In this case, these two parts (the valve and the cover) turned out to be pretty robust, so, continue to be cautious, but don’t sweat it.
I learned that the valve twisted towards the drivers’ side, and turned almost ninety degrees (if you started at 12 o’clock, you’d turn it to around the 9 o’clock), then with some resistance, pull it straight back to the rear of the compartment.
Now, here’s where it gets complicated. See the picture?


Both of those are correct PCV valves for my car. Obviously, there’s a difference. How do you know which one goes on yours? Short of reaching back there and feeling first, I dunno.

Here is the Motorcraft part number for the one that uses hot water: EV268

Here is what may be the part number for the electric one: (At post time, I never found it)

Here is what was written on my electric one when I yanked it: looks like 50132EV-261, then stamped >7PA66-GF33<

So, we have a valve dangling back there, with either an electric connector, or two water connectors. I can’t tell you what happens next If its’ the water one. For me, I was concerned I’d lose the electric connector, so after pushing the button and removing it from the valve, I *GENTLY* pushed my connector onto a stud I saw.

Here is where you and I part company. You obviously got the correct part. Me? I’m not paying 50 bucks for that thing. Nosireebob. I pulled the water pipe offa that new one, lubed the o ring and connector with oil from the old one, and yes, yes I did - I put the 15 dollar-ish part right on there. Then, to make sure the lack of electrical connection didn’t offend the computer, I plugged the old one back into the harness, and it dangles there to this day.

Hey, I’m a rebel.

Then, I scooched the hose back onto the valve tit, grabbed the pliers, put the hose clamp back where it goes, put the vacuum line back on, and test fired the car. Sounded fine.

That’s it. It took you longer to read this than it took me to do it, mistakes and photography and all. Wasn’t bad. And, now I’m not concerned that thing will fail (Especially seeing now its’ horizontally installed, that’s stupid) closed and pop a seal. Life’s good!

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I just did my '02 4.0 and it was the same ad the one with the hose, except there was no hose to attatch. All worked out just an FYI. Btw, I hate iPhone word correct or whatever it's called.

Hey, this was great. much better than the Chilton and All-Data info. One question, does the electrical connector just pull off or is there some kind of a latch/tab to press/pull/lift. I don't want to break it. Like you I don't play well with plastic pieces.

I just looked this part up on Rock Auto. The motorcraft electric PCV is $25 from there. The electrical connection is to heat it. I guess that is the only difference. They are either coolant heated or electric heat.

Oh, part number for the electric one:
MOTORCRAFT Part # EV261 {#2C5Z6A666AA}

Further research:
The PCV valve with the coolant line (MOTORCRAFT Part # EV268 {#2L5Z6A666BA}) is for the 02-03 4.0L. The 04+ uses the electically heatted PCV valve.

Hmm...why does the PCV need to be heated? Out of all the cars I've owned this is a first for me lol.

Just an update... the one is still dangling, and the truck continues to run fine!

Sudbury05 - There, IIRC is a small tabby thing that needs depressing. Tell it that it's fat. I wish I could tell you... hell. Waitaminute.(goes to parking lot, pops lid on first explorer he comes to)... don't quote me on this, but on the dangly one, the tab is on the same side as where the hose tit is, and opposite where it screws into the head.

HDale85 - Ford says above that it keeps it from freezing, but honestly, I've never heard of that as a customer concern. Weird, but they wouldn't spend the coin on adding it if there weren't something worse that would happen from deleting it...

Many thanks. The change was a success. Your pictures and narrative made it a lot easier. Now on to the spark plugs!

Excellent work on your part. I have to get to mine and appreciate living your headache first. The only thing i may change is to look for a replacement ORing or just take one off the cheaper "unheated " part. Thanks for you post

Just changed the PCV valve on my "03 4.0. It was an unheated version Motorcraft EV243. With this version I didn't have to deal with the hose clamp. Just pull the hose off and twist the valve out.

Thanks for the how to though. It helped getting started.

I can't for the life of me get the hose clamp off. Maybe the tool I'm using is too large...

Thank you for the write up. I have a 2005 4.0 V6 Flex fuel, and I cannot seem to find my PCV valve, or anything that looks like it. Am I missing something? I have the two hoses in the OPs picture, where one has metallic tape on it, but I don't see the PCV valve where it is in the OP's photo.

I can take more photos if necessary! I'm going to take a closer look with a flash light.



Hmm...why does the PCV need to be heated? Out of all the cars I've owned this is a first for me lol.

Heating is not necessarily bad idea. At least certain French cars used to have PCV-related problems in very cold climates. The valve froze and at extreme situation, whole valve was blown away because of overpressure.

I know this post was a long time ago, but where do I get replacement PCV valve hose? I think my mechanic lost the yellow o-ring and now creating a vacuum leak.

Thank you for the advice. I will try that for now.
Any auto parts store or hardware store should have rubber hose on rolls sold by the foot or in pre cut packaging.

Meantime, can someone confirm if the gasket/o ring goes inside here?