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how to convert to a manual hub

lifeguard379

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93 eddie bauer 2 door
ok so i was searching the site for info on ho to do this. i found alot of things related but didnt find any thing with pics or a step by step so hear one is.

This will start with removing the auto hub. ther is a thred on tis so i dont nead to go into tha but when it is all off it will look like this

100_0223.jpg


the manual hub nut kit dosnt explain this part and that is what mesd me up and alot of other people to.
the first nut to go on is the one with the pin it will look like this

100_0227.jpg

Make sure you torq it to 35 ft\pounds back off 1\4 turn re torq at 16 in\pounds.
next install the lock washer

100_0228.jpg


then the second nut torq to 150 ft pounds

100_0229.jpg

Now there are 2 pieces you have to save from the auto hubs look like this

100_0230.jpg

100_0231.jpg

Install them the same way they came off and install the hub

100_0233.jpg

Put the wheel back on and you are dune i hope this helps every one
 
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big_hoovie

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It's great, but I have a bone to pick... You stated the first nut is to be torqued to 35 ft/lbs, then backed off 1/4 turn, then re-torqued to 16 ft/lbs. Shouldn't that be 16 in/lbs??

Sorry about being critical. Great write up. :)
 
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Vanquish502

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The easiest and CHEAPEST(!!!!!!!!!!!!) way to put manual hubs on:!!!!!!!!


Buy the manual hubs and a small sanding drum that goes into a drill. Put the hub in a vice and sand the inside out so that it will clear the stock Ford bearing retaining hardware. It doesnt take much sanding. That's how I did it.


I paid $50 for the hubs at a junkyard and $8 for the sanding wheel.

It works great :)

edit: Your hubs only had 2 pieces? Wheres the plastic thing with the springs that wrap around it?
 
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lifeguard379

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big_hoovie said:
It's great, but I have a bone to pick... You stated the first nut is to be torqued to 35 ft/lbs, then backed off 1/4 turn, then re-torqued to 16 ft/lbs. Shouldn't that be 16 in/lbs??

Sorry about being critical. Great write up. :)
yes you are right thanks for pointing it out. :D that culd have mesed some people up.
 
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lifeguard379

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Vanquish502 said:
The easiest and CHEAPEST(!!!!!!!!!!!!) way to put manual hubs on:!!!!!!!!


Buy the manual hubs and a small sanding drum that goes into a drill. Put the hub in a vice and sand the inside out so that it will clear the stock Ford bearing retaining hardware. It doesnt take much sanding. That's how I did it.


I paid $50 for the hubs at a junkyard and $8 for the sanding wheel.

It works great :)

edit: Your hubs only had 2 pieces? Wheres the plastic thing with the springs that wrap around it?
no the washer and clip are the only pieces you re-use the plastic cam stays off
 
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Bwana Bob

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Rhett

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Vanquish502 said:
edit: Your hubs only had 2 pieces? Wheres the plastic thing with the springs that wrap around it?

I think he means that you only keep the two pieces. The plastic cam piece is not used (or thrown away)...

And you are lucky to find manuals in a junkyard, I never get that lucky...:D
 
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Josh

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1991 4 Door Explorer XLT
Vanquish502 said:
The easiest and CHEAPEST(!!!!!!!!!!!!) way to put manual hubs on:!!!!!!!!


Buy the manual hubs and a small sanding drum that goes into a drill. Put the hub in a vice and sand the inside out so that it will clear the stock Ford bearing retaining hardware. It doesnt take much sanding. That's how I did it.
How long have you been running with your adapted hubs? I was thinking how nice the OEM spindle nut was because it had that key that kept the nut from backing off unlike the warn crap.
 
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Vanquish502

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Couple months now. Now problems.

it's a lot easier than having to remove the nut and have to re-torque everything.

Especialy if you're a noob and don't want to have to deal with all that. Such as me.

Works great.

But for some reason I have a nut off of my 91 which I used as a guide to know when to stop sanding. It almost barely fit into the hub, but the hub fit onto my 92 no problem.

Did 92+ have smaller (yeah haha...) nuts?
 
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lifeguard379

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Josh said:
How long have you been running with your adapted hubs? I was thinking how nice the OEM spindle nut was because it had that key that kept the nut from backing off unlike the warn crap.


if you look at the pics at the washer with all the holes in it has a tab on it and the pin on the nut gos into one of the holes so it wont back out and the nuts are not hard to take on and off i like thes much better than the pos auto hubs
 
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Josh

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Yea, I am familiar with that. I now have mine torqued to 150ft lbs. On the other hand I have not heard of a OEM spindle nut backing off. If I can find the right screw, I might go ahead and drill a hole for the set screw in the jam nut. That would make it almost completely secure.
 
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Creager

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Yea, I am familiar with that. I now have mine torqued to 150ft lbs.
Wait, he was talking about the nut with the pin on it, thats the inner one you only torque to 16inlbs... have you been using this nut as the outter nut? (actually i might be mistaken, both nuts dont have that pin on them do they?)

Yeah that outter spindle nut does seem to find its way loose sometimes. I dont know about you guys, but trying to torque that sucker to ~150lbs can be pretty darn tedious with a hub-tool and a torque wrench. I cant keep the spindle-nut socket on the nut long enough to reach 150lbs. (My tool fits the spindle nut kinda loose anyway, i could probably make a better socket then what i bought at tarheal4x4.)

I have to give that sucker one good, mean, jerk-turn to get that thing up there. Using the impact makes it super easier. With the impact ive never had problems with it comming loose. Although, I've almost rung the threads off one spindle, so the impact can be too much.

I might go ahead and drill a hole for the set screw in the jam nut. That would make it almost completely secure.

Like run a small screw from outter nut to in the inner nut through that little slot?

what if you put a peice of nylon in there, like what they use in the inside of lock-nuts?
 
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Josh

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Creager said:
Wait, he was talking about the nut with the pin on it, thats the inner one you only torque to 16inlbs...
\

Well maybe that would explain why the front wheels wont turn. :confused: The inner nut I torque it until the rotor starts to get tight then back it off a quarter turn or less. Works for me anyway. As for torquing the outer nut, I stand over the top of it and put one hand on the head of the toque wrench pushing down and pull up on the handle with the other. It still flys off sometimes though.
 
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Tony H

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The first nut has the pin in it. the Washer with all the holes has a bump in it. The pin fits in the a hole in the washer and the bump fits in the groove in the spindle, that keeps the whole mess from spinning after the outer Jamb Nut is humped down.

The inner nut is 16 in/lbs +/- whatever it has to move to line up the pin in the hole in the washer.
Very simple to assemble and disassemble as compared to fighting with the Stock Clip that is used as a locking gizmo.
 
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Creager

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Josh said:
I stand over the top of it and put one hand on the head of the toque wrench pushing down and pull up on the handle with the other. It still flys off sometimes though.

Yeah that sucker is a PAIN.

PING! there it goes, off the spindle-nut, and there goes my knuckles flying into the rotor and on to the floor; then my face: into the fender. haha I dont even really see how how much torque i put on it after i get it up to ~135 ftlbs. Its about that point where its all or nothing with that socket tool. hahah
 
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I am repacking wheel bearings on my '93 EB. Previous owner had a mechanic convert from auto to Warn manual. Neither of my wheels has the axle shaft spacer/c-ring that this thread says you are supposed to save from the auto hubs.

Should I try to find these parts and install them? Everything has been fine without them.

Thanks
 
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lifeguard379

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do you still have all the other parts? if so i would say yes. i think under flex it will kindof slid out. but im a lil buzed right now lol sow i might be wrong. but finding the parts wont hurt.
 
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do you still have all the other parts? if so i would say yes. i think under flex it will kindof slid out. but im a lil buzed right now lol sow i might be wrong. but finding the parts wont hurt.
No...I don't have the parts as the conversion was done years ago when the previous owner took it to a mechanic. Interesting...my own mechanic took one of the hubs off several months ago to inspect an inner bearing and put it all back together without those parts and he didn't say anything to me. That wheel is still solid.

About the same time, a neighbor took off the other wheel to inspect the other bearing. He didn't know what he was doing and did not torque the nuts when he put it all back together. That wheel almost came apart on me. When I took the manual hub off the outer nut and the lock washer came right off with it...both had dethreaded. The only thing holding the bearing in place was the inner nut, and it was very loose...the wheel was so wobbly it knocked the inner brake pad off the caliper...it just feel to the ground when I touched the caliper. So I guess that spacer and C-ring do serve a role as extra protection.

I will replace them if Napa has them.

Thanks for your reply.
 
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ExporeRanger

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if i do the manual conversion my self, follow the diretions and reuse the auto arts and torque everyhting correctly... ho likely is it that i will hav a problem..you guys seem to make it seem like the manuals are pretty weak and it may be ahazard for them to "fall off" or pull out or wutveer
 
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Phantom 1o1

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I put the Warn kit on my 93 explorer yesterday in an hour and a half. That is taking my time with lots of smoke and coffee breaks. It was an easy install. The dreaded c-clip was no problem. Just place a rag between it and the wheel studs and use two equal length screwdrivers pointing down and just give them both a tap and the clip should pop right into the rag. Upon testing in the snow there is instant locking unlike the automatic hubs. no popping grinding or clicking. I strongly recommend this upgrade.
 
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