How to find leak?

[g8r]

I have a 95 that blows cold for a day or two before ut loses all refrigerant. I can hear it leaking near the front towards the tad. Cant see anything even tho I put a dye in. I am going to try black light but failing that what are the next steps? Is there somewhere a leak wouldnt be seen?

Okay I climbed under and over the engine compartment and see a small pool of bright green liquid ( which I assume is refrigerant) gathering at the bottom of the A/C condeser core in front of the rad.

Has anyone here ever replaced one?

If I dont turn on the air and plug the rest of the system can I drive without the core for a bit?

 

[ExplorerDMB]

the condensor is basically your radiator for your a/c system. It's a HAVE TO HAVE thing. If you think its leaking from the condensor then you need to have the system pulled down and then replace it. Also, the a/c dye is only seen (unless its a huge leak) with a black light.

-Drew

 

[rookieshooter]

First of all do you mean coil? Next do not remove if you have no experiance is this area. I would not have it removed untill another one is ready to replace it. Why risk contaniments entering the lines even if they are pluged. Unless the person doing this is so qualified to do so. As far as driving, if they are plugged correctly, I don't see a problem. Just make sure who ever does the repair pulls a good vacum to vacuate the system.

 

[Brock94]

The A/C system doesn't have coolant (antifreeze) in it, although the oil that is in it could appear bright yellow/green if it has UV dye in it. Your symptoms (minus the liquid) sound exactly like mine when the condensor sprung a leak. The hissing was coming from the lower left corner of the condensor (facing front). I replaced the condenser myself and it wasn't too bad of a job. The leak will take care of "evacuting" the system for you prior to disassembly (note the warnings in the sticky in this forum).

The new condenser cost me about $100 on eBay. The seller I bought it from had a separate website where he sold it for about $15 less, so check that out.

Not complete instructions, but to give you the gist-- I had to take off the serpentine belt and the fan clutch, then remove the mounting bolts from the radiator and tilt the radiator toward the engine to get the old condenser out and the new one in. With the new condenser in, I reassembled everything (add some pag oil to the A/C system before you connect all the lines), hooked up the fittings, vacuumed out the system, then recharged and no more leak.

I think the price to do it at a shop was going to be about $600, so this will pay for itself even if you have to buy some A/C tools.

 

[Brock94]

Oh, and to answer your question-- if it's fast enough to make an audible hiss, you should be able to find it with a soapy solution like you could with a tire.

Electronic refrigerant leak detectors are available cheap on eBay.

 

[g8r]

Thanks for the replies. I do have the Ford shop manual so I'll give it a try. Would you be so kind as to pm me that sellers website. Thanks again.

 

[Glacier991]

Excellent advice guys !

 

[g8r]

Now I'm in a pickle. I cant get the old condenser disconnected. Do I need a special tool. I got the spring locks off, but thats it.

 

[Brock94]

Now I'm in a pickle. I cant get the old condenser disconnected. Do I need a special tool. I got the spring locks off, but thats it.

Yes, you need a spring-lock tool (also used to disconnect fuel lines). These are really cheap and available at any parts store-- they are plastic ring-shaped (sorta) things that clip around the line and slide into the spring-lock connector to release the connector.

So you know, the spring-lock connector has a circular spring that clicks down over a lip on the line. The tool expands the spring so that it can slide over the lip and let the connector come apart.

There are two kinds of spring-lock tools. One kind consists of two half-circles connected by a hinge, the other kind is a solid plastic piece that is cut so it can be slipped over the line. The solid plastic kind worked better for me for some reason and they're cheaper (I foolishly bought both, but that's just me.)

After removing the safety clip (make sure the system is empty first and wear eye protection anyway), insert the springlock tool on the engine side of the connector and push it in toward the condenser. You should be able to feel when it is in there all the way. Then, keeping pressure on the tool, pull the connector apart.

 

[g8r]

Thanks man. Its amazing what the proper tools can do. I think its fixed....knock on wood. Will report back later.

 

[g8r]

Okay I finished the job. This is what it cost me:

-A/C condenser $165 from carquest
-freon, hoses and guage, $100 from partsource, i would never go there again....but i have only myself to blame for wasting some freon.
-0-rings $12 from dealer, turns out i didnt need them as condenser came with them.
-Air vac pump $30 ebay

CDN funds.

wouldnt ya know now by battery/alternator light is on now!

 

[Brock94]

Okay I finished the job. This is what it cost me:

-A/C condenser $165 from carquest
-freon, hoses and guage, $100 from partsource, i would never go there again....but i have only myself to blame for wasting some freon.
-0-rings $12 from dealer, turns out i didnt need them as condenser came with them.
-Air vac pump $30 ebay

CDN funds.

wouldnt ya know now by battery/alternator light is on now!

... and the feeling of saving a couple $100's doing it yourself, priceless!

Glad to hear about your success. The battery light may just be from a low battery because you left your hood open with the hood light on for a few hours. It should charge up on your first drive, though a slow charger would be best if you have one. I usually pull that light bulb out when I'm doing extended work (just remember it will be hot.)

 

[g8r]

I did bend the battery cable to get the condenser in. Should have just taken it off. Started it this morning and it didnt light up......thats strange.

O ya as a side note.

Condenser prices:

NAPA: $260 ( i dont know how they stay in business)
partsource: $230
dealer $217

first carquest, near my house quoted 180...then told me they would have to charge for shipping to bump it up to $200. They guys voice made me feel he was ripping me off so I was gonna go to the dealer. I decided to call another carquest just to see and thats when I was quoted $165. Not bad since ebay would have been $99 plus shipping, duty and or brokerage.

Carquest did get me for a package of special disconnect tools....$27..ouch.

Thanks for your help Brock and everyone else too!