synyster
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- February 6, 2010
- Messages
- 148
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Hammond IN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '02 Limited V8
A few weeks ago I kept having a problem with my door ajar, rear defrost, and dome lights coming on and staying on when I would turn on my rear defrost. After weeks of looking on the internet I finally found the cause. Here is what I did to fix it. It turns out it was a broken wire in the door boot.
1. These were the tools and stuff I used to fix it. Yes the butter knife actually helped. I used: 1/4" Ratchet, 6" extension, 6mm 7mm and 8mm sockets, wire stripers, a butter knife, needle nose pliers, a screwdriver, electrical tape, and 12 AWG Industrial wiring from Menards.
2. Start by removing the door panel trim. There are 3 bolts. 2 on the bottom of the door and one when you remove the trim piece above the door handle. Slide the panel over the door handle and disconnect any connectors that are there. DON'T leave the panel hanging with the connectors because you run the risk of damaging them or the wiring going into them. I used a butter knife to get the mirror adjusting connector out because I didn't have a small enough screw driver.
3. Once you remove the trim panel there should be a boot that goes in between the door and the body of the truck. I used a 1/4 ratchet and a screwdriver to get it out. I used the screwdriver to get under the boot on the body side and jammed the ratchet in so I could take the screwdriver and move it around the boot to pop it out. Once you pop it out go threw the wiring and look for a 12 awg wire that is broke give it a few light tugs until it comes out.
4. This is the side of the wire coming out of the body of the truck. I used a single piece of stranded 12 awg industiral wire to jump across the break in the wire.
5. This was the side that was in the door. I took the other end of the 12 awg wire and spliced it to the end that was in the door. After that I checked it and the problem was solved. I finished up by wraping it in electrical tape. Don't mind the taping skills, this is just a temporary fix for right now until it gets warm enough for me to stay outside and solder and heatshrink it.
6. Another view of the repair.
1. These were the tools and stuff I used to fix it. Yes the butter knife actually helped. I used: 1/4" Ratchet, 6" extension, 6mm 7mm and 8mm sockets, wire stripers, a butter knife, needle nose pliers, a screwdriver, electrical tape, and 12 AWG Industrial wiring from Menards.
2. Start by removing the door panel trim. There are 3 bolts. 2 on the bottom of the door and one when you remove the trim piece above the door handle. Slide the panel over the door handle and disconnect any connectors that are there. DON'T leave the panel hanging with the connectors because you run the risk of damaging them or the wiring going into them. I used a butter knife to get the mirror adjusting connector out because I didn't have a small enough screw driver.
3. Once you remove the trim panel there should be a boot that goes in between the door and the body of the truck. I used a 1/4 ratchet and a screwdriver to get it out. I used the screwdriver to get under the boot on the body side and jammed the ratchet in so I could take the screwdriver and move it around the boot to pop it out. Once you pop it out go threw the wiring and look for a 12 awg wire that is broke give it a few light tugs until it comes out.
4. This is the side of the wire coming out of the body of the truck. I used a single piece of stranded 12 awg industiral wire to jump across the break in the wire.
5. This was the side that was in the door. I took the other end of the 12 awg wire and spliced it to the end that was in the door. After that I checked it and the problem was solved. I finished up by wraping it in electrical tape. Don't mind the taping skills, this is just a temporary fix for right now until it gets warm enough for me to stay outside and solder and heatshrink it.
6. Another view of the repair.
