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How To: Fix the Door Ajar Problem


BigRondo

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Has anyone had an issue with he icon lighting up on the lower left corner of the display showing the airbag? It flashes then stays on. I have already repaired the black wire breaks.
That indicates a problem with your airbag system. Count how many times it flashes and do a search for that.
 


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marxy27

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Wiring Diagram for 2004 Ford Explorer?

I hope the WD does the trick. :thumbsup:

Mine is exhibiting some broken wire symptoms again. I'm gonna have to tear into it again.

Let me know if you any info or diagrams from the shop maunuals. :thumbsup:
Is the 2003 Wiring Diagram the same for the 2004 Ford Explorers? Once the weather warms up, I plan on tearing into it. Would appreciate any help!
 




BigRondo

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Is the 2003 Wiring Diagram the same for the 2004 Ford Explorers? Once the weather warms up, I plan on tearing into it. Would appreciate any help!
What symptoms are you experiencing?
 




mineral_ltd

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Just did the WD40 thing. Worked for me.
 




1oldguy72

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I have not seen where anyone had only the audio alarm going off. When I start my 2000 explorer the audio alarm will beep 5 times, 5 times in a row. It's driving me nuts! 15-20 min. later it will go off again! The same series of five beeps-5 times. The door ajar light is NOT on. I'll check for the broken wire I guess unless someone has a better idea.
 




JayHeath123

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2002 Ford Explorer
I was experiencing the same issues with my 02. The double beep when I armed it, my drivers side puddle light was much dimmer than the passenger side and when I would use the rear defrost the door ajar light would come on. Thinking it was a bulb I went ahead and replaced both puddle light bulbs still got the double beep and the next morning the battery was dead. I removed the bulb on the drivers side and was only getting a single beep but still the door ajar light when I would attempt to use the rear defrogger. Once it warms up some and isn't raining"because it always rains on my days off" I will attempt what has been written here. Thanks for the advice in advance.
 




mcainp

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So I put in a new door ajar switch in drivers side door sprayed every lock with wd40 and still have door ajar light and my power door locks will unlock but won't lock. Going nuts here, right now I have back hatch torn apart trying to find bad wires all my power windows work fine.
 




nick1982

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2002 explorer sport
Door chime and dome light issues

I have an 02 explorer sport and I have a weird problem, the dome light only turns on when I open the passenger door, not the driver door, I took the door apart and found that the door switch was actually broken, and the wire connector was hanging in the door, I bought a new door switch and replaced and it still does not work when I open the drivers door. Also the door chime works when it wants too, it never sounds if I leave keys in ignition and open the door, or leave the headlights on, any other guesses as to what it could be? someone said the GEM, but I have no other issues, would a broken wire cause the chime not to work properly?
 




lgdaze73

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I am new to this forum as well. I am experiencing the same "door ajar" issues. I had this problem in the past, but it eventually took care of itself. Now, my alarm is also going off in the night...every hour to the minute. Possessed?!? Perhaps...however, I will give the WD40 a try and hopefully it will cure the beast!

Thanks to all of you for your input and for helping me understand alternatives to repair this crazy issue.
 




Reprise

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2002 Explorer XLT 4.0L
Got mine fixed last weekend with a new driver's door switch. Decided to tackle it while putting in my new speakers and while I was at it, to check the rest of the window regulators to see if any others were going to go soon (I had to replace the driver's rear a few weeks ago). Checked the rubber boot in the door; wiring looked intact.

Decided to try the driver's door first, since it opens the most. First shop gave me the wrong part; after I got the right one, put it in...and.. voila! NO MORE 'Door Ajar'. No more incessant chiming as soon as I put the key in or shut off the engine. No more interior / puddle lamps on for 10min or so after starting and driving, unless I shut them completely off. Oh, hello retained accessory power for radio and windows. Hello single beep when any door is opened. Hey, that's autolock engaging when I start moving! (since turned off :)

It's a beautiful thing to get rid of that light and all that it does / disables when it's constantly on. Took a drive in her afterward with the new speaks in, and was smiling from ear to ear.

Only a couple of lights left - ABS, air bag (I've got a code 33), and the check engine light (was giving me the DPFE code; I've replaced, but light is still on a couple of weeks later.

Slowly but surely, I'm making her respectable again. But I think I'm hearing the rear wheel bearings now... ::shudder:: And I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace the solenoid pack in the tranny.
 




DraganTine

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Tricks & Tips

WARNING!
When you are stripping the wires be careful of how much pressure you put on them as you can pull them apart father down the line.
Borrow or invest in the style of wire stripper that can he used in one hand and holds the wire solid while it strips it. All the best and i hope this helps.
This is a trick I learned from trying to repair tiny tiny gauge computer wires :

Use a lighter to just quickly melt the insulation of the end of the wire your trying to strip just the 1/2 to inch or so.. then let it cool for a second while still warm / melted and with your tips of your fingers grip it so your nails bite in the insulation and quickly pull it off...

I had to do this on some scrap wire before I got the hang of it down - This will prevent you damaging any of the wire further down and if it is as it was in my case close quarters and don't have much room to strip an wire and cant get a wire stripper tool in where you need too...or the wire is so thin you just rip the wire and insulation instead of just removing the insulation...

Just don't :fire: burn your fingers off ....

DT
 




D Hook

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I hope the WD does the trick. :thumbsup:

Mine is exhibiting some broken wire symptoms again. I'm gonna have to tear into it again.

Let me know if you any info or diagrams from the shop maunuals. :thumbsup:
Got time to dig into the boot and found two broken wires; one was the thick black wire that prevented windows from working properly and the other was a small one that controlled the mirrors. Now they're all working again.

One issue I had during the repair was how to keep the boot out of the way. I ended up pulling the boot out of the body and pushing it into the door completely (after untaping the door side of the boot) so it was completely out of the way during the repair. The rubber is soft enough to go through the holes on the door and then slide down inside the door to keep it away from the wiring you're trying to repair. Take the speaker out and you can do a butt connector on the wires by pulling them into the speaker hole. Had to do that because the break left very little wire coming out of the door. It also allowed me to use a conventional wire stripper. But I had a spark coming off the black wire exiting the body when it accidently brushed against the body of the car. Not sure why, since I didn't have the key on. But I did leave the battery connected. No blown fuse on anything as it was very brief; just enough to get my attention.

Got them both fixed, tested and all is good.
 
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BigRondo

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Got time to dig into the boot and found two broken wires; one was the thick black wire that prevented windows from working properly and the other was a small one that controlled the mirrors. Now they're all working again. One issue I had during the repair was how to keep the boot out of the way. I ended up pulling the boot out of the body and pushing it into the door completely (after untaping the door side of the boot) so it was completely out of the way during the repair. The rubber is soft enough to go through the holes on the door and then slide down inside the door to keep it away from the wiring you're trying to repair. Take the speaker out and you can do a butt connector on the wires by pulling them into the speaker hole. Had to do that because the break left very little wire coming out of the door. It also allowed me to use a conventional wire stripper. But I had a spark coming off the black wire exiting the body when it accidently brushed against the body of the car. Not sure why, since I didn't have the key on. But I did leave the battery connected. No blown fuse on anything as it was very brief; just enough to get my attention. Got them both fixed, tested and all is good.
Nice job on the fix, and thanks for the update. :biggthump
 




dah

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A few weeks ago I kept having a problem with my door ajar, rear defrost, and dome lights coming on and staying on when I would turn on my rear defrost. After weeks of looking on the internet I finally found the cause. Here is what I did to fix it. It turns out it was a broken wire in the door boot.


1. These were the tools and stuff I used to fix it. Yes the butter knife actually helped. I used: 1/4" Ratchet, 6" extension, 6mm 7mm and 8mm sockets, wire stripers, a butter knife, needle nose pliers, a screwdriver, electrical tape, and 12 AWG Industrial wiring from Menards.



2. Start by removing the door panel trim. There are 3 bolts. 2 on the bottom of the door and one when you remove the trim piece above the door handle. Slide the panel over the door handle and disconnect any connectors that are there. DON'T leave the panel hanging with the connectors because you run the risk of damaging them or the wiring going into them. I used a butter knife to get the mirror adjusting connector out because I didn't have a small enough screw driver.



3. Once you remove the trim panel there should be a boot that goes in between the door and the body of the truck. I used a 1/4 ratchet and a screwdriver to get it out. I used the screwdriver to get under the boot on the body side and jammed the ratchet in so I could take the screwdriver and move it around the boot to pop it out. Once you pop it out go threw the wiring and look for a 12 awg wire that is broke give it a few light tugs until it comes out.



4. This is the side of the wire coming out of the body of the truck. I used a single piece of stranded 12 awg industiral wire to jump across the break in the wire.



5. This was the side that was in the door. I took the other end of the 12 awg wire and spliced it to the end that was in the door. After that I checked it and the problem was solved. I finished up by wraping it in electrical tape. Don't mind the taping skills, this is just a temporary fix for right now until it gets warm enough for me to stay outside and solder and heatshrink it.



6. Another view of the repair.
 




dah

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pictures

Any chance you can post pictures again?
 




Panther32

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Same Problem

Hey all. I have the same problem. My door ajar light is on, but no interior lights are lit. All door are closed and locked, but the dash light stays lit. Any advice would be great!
 




SeekerFor

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Brake lights stay on

This just started. The brakes lights stay on. Tried pulling different fuses, no luck. Any ideas. 2003 Ford Explorer V8 Eddie Bower Limited Edition

Repaired the broken wires in the door a while back.
 




JusFlako

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I am having this issue as well. The "DOOR AJAR" sings goes off 1,000 times while driving, its really annoying..

It all started when liftgate glass stop opening by remote or the button by the license plate. I disconnected both of the switches from the trunk under the panel but it still is going off.


What could that be, the black wire?
 




jallara

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I am having this issue as well. The "DOOR AJAR" sings goes off 1,000 times while driving, its really annoying.. It all started when liftgate glass stop opening by remote or the button by the license plate. I disconnected both of the switches from the trunk under the panel but it still is going off. What could that be, the black wire?
Definitely...I replaced the door sensor on my driver's door while I had it open since it seemed to be all "gummy". BUT, I found the infamous broken black wire in the door hinge. I tested all the wiring in the door, but my light is still on. I fear I only fixed part of the problem, now to see what's next!
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




JusFlako

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I did the WD40 thing, it worked for a day. My wife said the car ding started to go off today, but NO "door ajar" sign.

Does anyone know or have a pic of how these door sensors look like?
 




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