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How To: Ignition switch Install. 07 Sport Trac

lucasred

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2008 Eddie Bauer
I think the SW 6958 is for vehicles With Out keyless entries.
 



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hmumm

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do you have to get new keys????
 












hmumm

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Ignition switch replacement 2008 Explorer

Having the same issues as most with the ignition switch causing all sorts of gremlins lights not working drivers seat moving on its own etc....I appreciate the visual guide how to replace this ignition swith, but I have another question My 2008 Eddie Bauer has the passive security chip in the keys and other videos I have watched on how to replace this switch mention that my keys have to be programmed to the new ignition switch to allow the computer to turn on fuel injection and fuel pump etc....did you replace your keys or did keys come with the new ignition switch? the You Tube video on the auto Zone web site said that if the key had an S stamped on it your vehicle has this passive security,,,and if tyou don't program the key to the ignition the car will not start....

Any suggestions about this? will new keys purchased with the ignition fix the problem? the Ford dealerships in CO are the kind that charge about $200 for this little service,,,as well as updates for the BIOS in the radio etc...so I am sure I will get hit by a big programming charge if I inadvertently put in an un programmed ignition switch....

Comments /advice??? Thanks in advance...

BTW to answer another reply on this thread,,,the Eddie Bauer models do have a driver seat that moves all the way back when the drivers door is opened either getting in or getting out,,(when it is working correctly) ,and it has two presets my wife is 5'3" so when the ignition switch causes the seat to go all the way back without warning, she can't reach the brake,,,,so I need to fix this pretty soon!!
 






chrisbnugget

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Easy Fix

I recently purchased a 2007 Ford Explorer and had this same issue. I found the part on ebay for $30 and installed it. Only thing extra I had to do was align the moving part to the same position as the one I removed so that it would fit. Also it was a little cramped getting my fingers around the clips, but in the end it was about a 10 minute job. Thanks for the reminder to remove the battery as well.:thumbsup:
 






lucasred

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ignition switch problems

I believe that most electrical issues concerning the ignition switch are with the ignition switch module. This module is mounted under the lower
steering column cover. It is an electronic module and does not have any physical connection to the ignition switch keys.
You would retain the keyed mechanical ignition switch and therefor no new keys needed.
Jim
 






sockrocker361

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Here's my dilemma. I have a 08 explorer with all of the same problems and wiggling the key will recreate the issue. heres my problem if wiggling the key recreates the problem that tells me that the ignition cylinder is wore and it thinks the key is being removed. which is a function that cylinder is supposed to perform and then communicate to some kind of switch that the domes lights need to turn on or off. if the cylinder is malfunctioning why does replacing the ignition switch, which this thread leads me to believe is a different part from the cylinder, why does replacing the switch fix the problem, and not replacing the cylinder. im not questioning anyone intelligence I just need to wrap my head around this issue before I spend the money to fix it
 






eppd00

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08 Sport Trac Adrenalin
When I had the issue with my 08, several years ago, the dealer replaced the lock cylinder only.The tech had to set the tumblers to fit the original keys. I could also rattle the key in the old cylinder and create gremlins. I first noticed the issue when the key in the cylinder did not set off the chime when I opened the door with the key in.
 






sockrocker361

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Thats the kind of answer I was looking for. Thank you
 






BobMachus

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2007 Eddie Bauer 4x4
I have this problem in my 2007 EB 4.0. Looking at the pictures in the original post it looks like the end of the ignition cylinder shaft (little flanged bit) pokes through the column and engages the switch with that flanged bit. The ignition cylinder prevents the shaft from being turned without the proper key. Once the proper key enables the shaft to turn, it is the shaft engaging the switch which actually sends electronic signals to the ECM to start the car, turn on lights, etc. It is for this reason (I think) that replacing the switch solves this problem. Of course it is also possible that there is damage in the cylinder that prevents the shaft from turning properly, but I think that if you cylinder were bad the shaft wouldn't ever engage the switch properly, so you would almost never get the car to start or react at all to turning the key. I see there are lots of part numbers for this. My EB has keyless entry and auto seats, is there a different ignition switch part number for different trims?

Thanks
 






sockrocker361

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I just had this issue resolved. The cause of my problem was a worn ignition cylinder. there is an electrical connection made when ur key is put in the ignition and causes the alarm to go off when the door is opened and when the key is removed it tells the computer to perform an exit procedure and operate functions like move the seat back(if the vehicle has that option), turn on entry lights, etc. when the cylinder wears from age, or heavy key rings this connection can be lost when the vehicle hits a bump or something similar. When the connection is lost the vehicle thinks you have removed the key and tells parts of the vehicle to operate the exit procedure. The new cylinder was less than $200 from the dealer. Unfortunately since my vehicle has a key with a computer chip I could replace the part but the vehicle would have to be towed to the dealer for them to reprogram the computer to match the key to the cylinder. Without the reprogramming the vehicle will not start.
 






sockrocker361

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Also when I originally inquired about the part they needed the vin to determine what cylinder was right for my vehicle
 






BobMachus

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Well, we'll see. I just bought and installed a new switch. The part was $52 from Autozone and it only took a few minutes to R&R. The part is in and the Ex starts fine. Time will tell if I replaced the right part. Fingers crossed.
 






sockrocker361

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Bob after rereading your post I have a better grasp on this system. It seems to me that the two work together to perform different functions. If the cylinder is worn the key won't contact the switch properly and make the problem happen. But it also seems to me that since the cylinder wears out it may also wear out the part of the switch that contacts the cylinder causing the same issue. It looks like replacing one of the two parts brings the connection closer together and fixes the problem. By this theory both parts should be replaced together to bring the connection back to factory specs. But if replacing one of the two fixes the problem then y replace both. That's just what makes sense to me.
 






BobMachus

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Replacing the switch fixed mine. It's been several days now and the dome lights no longer randomly come on and I have had the "easy entry" option active and the seats only move when I turn the truck on and off as designed, so I'll call this one done. In my case the issue was clearly with the contacts internal to the switch itself.
 






sgoss66

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2008 Sport Trac
Hi all!

I posted much earlier in this thread -- a couple of years ago. I was having the "gremlin" issues, so I replaced the ignition switch and it fixed things.

Now, however, I have started having a different problem. Sometimes when I put the key in the ignition and turn the key, nothing at all happens. I have to turn the key back to the "turn off" position, and try again. Sometimes, I have to engage the key slightly different -- I noticed I tend to "push in" on the key when I'm turning it to start the vehicle, and at this point, I have to be careful NOT to "push in" on the key as I turn it, or else the vehicle will not start. If I am careful not to "push in," on the key, it seems to usually start the engine properly. Other times, turning the key starts the vehicle as it should, no problem.

Obviously, something is "wearing out," and from reading through this entire thread, it seems like it's either the ignition switch again, or the ignition cylinder. I would suspect the switch, but I know I'm not having any of the "gremlin" issues I had before, so I'm not sure. Anyone have any guesses -- switch, or cylinder?

If it IS the cylinder, this time, is that a tough part to replace as a DIY project, or since it's a "keyed" part, will I have to have the dealer do it?

Thanks,

Steve
 






jgauthier

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I was having the dome light issue, precisely. Hit a bump, and the light would come on. Following this thread I replaced the ignition switch.

Problem solved.. new problem created.

When I remove the key and open the door, the vehicle beeps at my as if I left the key in. I can reset this by putting the key in and going to accessory and back sometimes.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
 






sgoss66

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Hi all, to follow up on my post from March 8, a couple of posts prior in this thread, and to tie in to what some others have said...

I mentioned in the March post that I am once again dealing with "odd" issues that have cropped back up with my Sport Trac (won't start unless the keys are jiggled to a certain position, windshield wiper/washer won't work unless the keys are jiggled to a certain position, etc.). After enduring the issue for a few months, I finally decided to take care of it. I took an educated guess, deciding that since it's only been just a couple of years since I replaced the ignition switch (per the original instructions in this thread), and since that switch install did fix the problems for roughly two years, my guess was that this time, it was more likely that the ignition cylinder itself must now be worn out. So, I bought a new cylinder online, and had it replaced at a local locksmith (I didn't want to try and tackle re-keying the cylinder to fit my keys, and it was only a $30 labor charge for them to install and re-key it, so it seemed a no-brainer). However, the new cylinder DID NOT fix the issues. The same problems are ongoing, with the new cylinder installed. SO -- I am now thinking that it MUST be that my ignition switch has gone bad YET AGAIN. So, I bought another switch; this time I bought a Motorcraft, instead of after-market (I bought the Motorcraft SW-6958, as someone else metioned earlier in the thread; talking to my Ford dealer, it is a replacement for the original SW-6343). I plan to install the switch tomorrow -- so I will post back to let everyone know if this solves the issues.

Steve
 






sgoss66

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Well, I installed the new ignition switch this morning, and it solved the problem. Everything is working perfectly again.

Once again, it was a quick, easy, 10-minute job. Thanks again, kcirtap, for posting these instructions. Second time I've had to use them!

If I recall correctly, by the way, the three smaller screws on the steering column housing have 7/32 heads, and the two holding the lower housing below the dash are 9/32.

Not sure if it means anything, but the aftermarket ignition switch lasted only about 2 years, whereas the initial stock switch lasted 5. Hopefully this new OEM replacement won't need changed for a good while.

Steve
 



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madeiros

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Hello,

I'm new to the forum, so be gentle.....

I have the same problem of the blinking light dome on my sport trac.

In the beginning of this thread, on kcirtap's instuctions, I see no pic's so have no idea where to start for the screw removal. No sure why, but can any give me guidance on seeing the pic's?

Thaks
 






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