How to: Intercooled Banshee/M90 supercharger installation | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Intercooled Banshee/M90 supercharger installation

This thread will document the installation of R P Caster's intercooled Banshee supercharger kit and an Eaton M90 supercharger from a Thunderbird supercoupe into my 2000 Explorer Sport with SOHC V6. Following the installation I will be generating a custom tune using SCT's Advantage III Pro Racer Package. Hopefully, this thread will assist others in performing a similar installation. The components incorporated will be listed here and updated as required. A "Lessons Learned" section will also be posted here when the project is completed. To reduce the length of this thread (to assist those duplicating the installation) this thread was closed until the basic installation was completed. The rationale for the selection of various components and their locations are posted in a related thread: SOHC V6 Supercharger. Posts related to the custom tune will be in Self Tuning My Supercharged 4.0L SOHC V6. Posts related to the installation of the thermostat lower metal housing wil be in metal thermostat housing soon available for v6 2005+ engine. Posts related to the 240 amp alternator will be in Alternator upgrade - 4G, 3G large or small case? Posts related to the rail mounted fuel pressure sensor will be in Electronic fuel pressure controller. Posts related to forced induction dynamometer testing will be in Dyno Testing & Downshift

Lessons Learned
1. My 2.7" blower pulley has a diameter of 3.12" (radius = 1.56"). My stock body bushings are in good condition. After removing the hood reinforcement directly above the pulley there was about 3/8" of clearance. The stock pulley has a diameter of 3.5" (radius = 1.75"). The installed stock pulley would only have a hood clearance of .185" (3/16") clearance after removing the hood reinforcement. Raising the hood stops and adjusting the hood latch could gain an additional 1/8" of clearance without being noticeable. A 1" body lift should eliminate the need to cut the hood reinforcement when installing a stock pulley but the hood insulation may have to be cut out above the pulley.
2. Utilizing the Banshee supplied main intake components (which requires deleting cruise control due to insufficient hood clearance) eliminates the need for custom fabricated parts and definitely reduces the cost and effort to install the supercharger.
3. Rewiring the engine wiring harness to eliminate the stock wiring bundles between the head intake ports is an error prone, time consuming and tedious task. It may be possible to utilize a Ranger engine wiring harness with a lot less effort but this has not been confirmed.
4. Low maximum boost (using the stock pulley) probably does not require upgrading the fuel injectors, fuel pump or a custom tune. However, I recommend an installed air/fuel ratio meter to detect lean conditions if accelerating at WOT to max engine speed. A custom tune can maximize the performance gains with a stock pulley and is required for smaller pulleys (increased boost), MAF sensor size increase, and injector flow rate increase.
5. Installing a very high flow fuel pump (340 liters/hr) will increase the fuel pressure at the fuel rails and richen the air/fuel ratio.
6. Reducing exhaust flow restrictions reduces maximum boost and increases performance. However, exhaust modifications should be carefully considered to avoid losing low end torque. The Dynomax VT muffler seems to be effective in achieving both objectives.
7. Flexible hose (even 5 layer reinforced silicone) is not suitable for the main intake tube between the throttle body and the plenum. It handles high pressure but collapses from high vacuum. Only use rigid tubing in this section of the main intake.

Begin Parts List

1: Banshee intercooled supercharger kit
1: Henson Performance custom tune

Fuel Related
1: Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump 11142 (340 liters/hr @ 40 psi)
6: Siemans Deka 4 high impedance (long style) injectors with EV1 connector (60 lbs/hr @ 43.5 psi)
6: Delphi EV1 fuel injector connectors (stock connectors will work)
6: fuel injector adapters (seals/insulators) PN F77Z-9G512-AA
The three items listed below are not required for stock fuel pressure damper
1: fuel pressure/temperature sensor Ford PN 3F2E-9G756-AD, Motorcraft PN CM5229, Standard PN FPS5
1: fuel pressure/temperature sensor mating connector with pigtails PN 3U2Z-14S411-UC
1: custom fabricated fuel pressure/temperature sensor adapter

M90 Related
1: 1991 Thunderbird supercoupe Eaton M90 supercharger (other years will work)
1: 2.7" dia keyed supercharger pulley (pulley size dependent on desired boost, Dayco 5061045 serpentine belt supplied with kit works fine with 2.7" pulley)
1: M90 supercharger coupler from DaRossi
1: M90 snout seal
2: 4 oz bottles of GM supercharger oil

Intake Manifold Related
1: Standard AX3 air temperature sensor
1: Standard S567 sensor electrical connector with pigtails
1: 1/8" NPT male 90 degree elbow

Plenum Related
1: Auto Meter boost/vacuum gauge 2601 (does not support datalogging)

Intake Related
1: Akimoto 3" intake dia cone air filter or equivalent
1: 45 deg 3" dia to 4" dia silicone adapter
1: 4" dia MAF sensor adapter
1: Ford Racing Lightning 90 mm MAF sensor, P/N M-12579-L54
1: silicone 4" to 3" dia reducer from
2: 4" dia T-bolt clamps
2: silicone 3" dia couplers from
4: 3/8" FPT stainless steel bungs
1: 75 mm Ford Racing throttle body
1: custom throttle body to 3" dia tube adapter
1: custom 3" dia tube to plenum adapter
1: silicone 3" dia 45 degree elbow
1: 75 mm to 65 mm transition "gasket"
1: 3" dia tube to plenum "gasket"
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
1/2" i.d. fuel vapor hose (SAE 30R7)
1: Dayco 1.5" I.D. x 25" long flexible radiator hose, P/N 81201 (eliminates stock upper hoses & coupler for clearance)

Remote IAC Valve Related
1: Red Dot metal weatherproof electrical 5 outlet box S108E (1/2", 1 gang, silver) from Home Depot (only need 1 end and 1 side outlet)
1: Red Dot metal closure plug (1/2") from Home Depot
1: 2000 Mustang GT/Crown Victoria 4.6L IAC valve
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
2: 90 deg elbow 1/2" MPT x 1/2" hose barb fittings
1/8" x 1 1/2" aluminum stock

PCV Related
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
3/8" dia. transmission oil cooler hose
7/8" dia. hose clamps
1: crankcase breather (crankcase vent separator) PN F77Z*6A785*AB
1: Oil Separator catch can for all PCV systems and HHO

Intercooler related
1: Pex 3/4" MPT x 3/4" barb elbow
2: 3/4" FPT conduit locknut
3: Pex 3/4" barb elbows
1: Bosch intercooler pump 0 392 022 002 (317 GPH)
1: Pex 3/4" x 1/2" barb reducer
1: mounted heat exchanger (I used a modified stock auxiliary ATF cooler)
2: Pex 1/2" barb elbows
2: -08 AN to 3/8" NPT flare to pipe adapters
2: -08 AN push-loc 90 deg hose ends
1: Pex 1/2" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow
2: 1/2" FPT conduit locknut
3/4" ID heater hose
3/4" ID hose clamps
5/8" ID heater hose
5/8" ID hose clamps
1/2" ID heater hose
1/2" ID hose clamps
10' 1/4" diameter convoluted loom
10' 16 gauge stranded copper insulated wire
1' 1/8" ID heat shrink
1: 1/4" dia terminal lug
1: 1/4" dia flat washer
2: 1/4"-20 x 3/4" hex head bolts
2: 1/4"-20 lock nuts
RTV sealant

Engine wiring harness related
1: 3/16" dia. T vacuum connector
2: 3/16" dia. vacuum connector
3/16" ID flexible hose (vacuum or washer fluid)
1" dia split convoluted loom
3/4" dia split convoluted loom
1/2" dia split convoluted loom
3/8" dia split convoluted loom
1/4" split dia convoluted loom
16 gauge stranded copper wire (insulated)
18 gauge stranded copper wire (insulated) of various colors
1/8" dia heat shrink tubing

End Parts List

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A/C discharge tube to accumulator disconnect

As shown in the test mockup photos below, the A/C refrigerant tube from the compressor to the suction accumulator must be altered because it is in the way of the planned location of the main intake.


The first step in that process is to evacuate the refrigerent from the system. My A/C compressor has been rapidly recycling on and off since I purchased my Sport so I asked the A/C technician at Hawkins Towing auto repair shop to check my low pressure switch. He advised me that cycling was often due to a low refrigerant quantity and that he would evacuate the system to measure it. Well, it was significantly low so we just stopped there. The low pressure switch can be replaced without evacuating the system so it will be tested in the distant future when the A/C system is re-pressurized. Since I am still driving my Sport I disconnected the electrical connector to the A/C compressor to make sure it is not engaged while there's no refrigerant.

My connector is difficult to release (I think the press tab is broken off) in the restricted access location. I have another connector with pigtails and may install it when I tear apart the engine wiring harness.
To disconnect the A/C compressor discharge to accumulator fitting I used an inexpensive quick disconnect kit.

Fortunately, the largest size in the kit (7/8 inch) fit the tube. I pried off the keeper and then inserted the tool into the fitting.

Because the plastic tool flexed easily I had to use three locking pliers to keep from breaking the plastic. Once the tool is fully seated in the fitting and the locking pliers removed the two pipes can be pulled apart. CAUTION: Wear eye protection when separating the joint. Even though my A/C system was evacuated green slime sprayed out when the pipes were pulled apart. I securely covered the exposed ports to keep out contamination particles.

After the supercharger is completely installed I will go to a refrigerant tube/hose specialty shop to have a custom unit made. That way they'll know exactly how it should be shaped.

refrigerant manifold removal

There is a bracket that attaches the A/C manifold to the front timing cover. The easiest access to it is from below so I raised the front end and installed jack stands. Then I removed the air deflector (4 bolts) that is located below the radiator. The red arrow in the photo below identifies the flared nut that attaches the bracket.

The blue arrow identifies the protective sheath on the discharge hose.

Next I removed the bolt that attaches the A/C refrigerant manifold to the condensor.

The A/C refrigerant manifold is secured to the rear of the A/C compressor with a 10 mm bolt that doesn't show in the photo.

To remove the A/C refrigerant manifold as an assembly:

Remove air filter outlet tube or main intake assembly
Remove serpentine belt from A/C compressor pulley.
Remove cooling fan and shroud. This is according to the workshop manual. I removed the front sway bar bushing mounting bolts and let the bar drop instead to get working space underneath.
Disconnect the A/C pressure cutoff switch electrical connector identified by the red arrow in the photo below.

Remove the power steering reservoir mounting bolts. One is identified by the blue arrow in the photo above. The other is identified by the green arrow in the photo below. Ignore the red arrows.

Lift straight up on the reservoir to disengage it from a "tit" in the base.
Remove the power steering reservoir mounting bracket/pulley guard mounting bolts as identified in the photo below.

refrigerant manifold removal (continued)

I removed the power steering hose support bracket mounting nut identifed by red arrow below and tied the power steering pump reservoir forward to get it out of the way.

I also disconnected the intake manifold to fuel vapor management valve hose identifed by the blue arrow above.
Remove left front wheel.
Remove left front inner fender well splash shield.
Working thru fender well remove the stud bolts identified below attaching A/C compressor to mount. Also loosen the wiring harness support bracket mounting bolt (blue arrow) to gain clearance for the compressor.

Working from engine compartment remove the nuts identified below attaching A/C compressor to mount.

Remove A/C compressor from engine compartment.

Carefully work refrigerant assembly toward the firewall and upward while freeing the long leg from entanglement.

Oil (green slime) leaked out of the lower end of the assembly. Be sure to securely cover all exposed ports to prevent dirt/water contamination.

Note: Removal of the A/C manifold assembly was tedious and frustrating. There were several times that I was tempted to just hack the thing into enough pieces to easily pull it out. However, I wanted a complete assembly to take to the A/C line/hose fabricator to discuss the changes required. I plan for the replacement assembly to be almost entirely flexible hose.

Main intake tube removal

1. Disconnect ground cable from battery negative terminal (using 8mm wrench or socket).

Note: There are three methods of relieving fuel rail pressure. One is to disable the fuel pump while the engine is idling. This can be done by removing fuse 9 (20 amps) in the battery junction box; activating the inertia fuel shutoff switch; removing the fuel pump relay in the battery junction box; or disconnecting the electrical connector to the fuel pump (located in front of the fuel tank inboard of the driver side frame rail). The second method is to depress the Schrader valve on the fuel rail while covering the port with a hose or rag to catch the released fuel. The third method is to wait until the pressure is relieved via the fuel pump assembly check valve leakage. I chose the third method since it would be several days before disconnecting the fuel line or rails.

2. Remove the 4 bolts (use 7mm socket) retaining the throttle body splash shield ("SOHC 4.0L") if still present. Set shield aside.

3. Disconnect MAF/IAT sensor electrical connector.
Note: On my 2000 the MAF and IAT sensors are integrated into the MAF sensor housing. On earlier models the sensors are separate each having its own electrical connector.

4. Disconnect air filter enclosure cover retaining levers if drop in air filter still being used.

5. Disconnect main intake tube from throttle body.

6. Disconnect air intake tube from passenger side valve cover.

7. Disconnect air intake tube from IAC valve.

8. Set aside main intake tube assembly.

Throttle body removal

1. Detach cruise control cable from upper intake manifold (use 7mm socket) and throttle plate control. Position cruise control cable out of the way.

2. Detach throttle control cable from upper intake manifold (use 7mm socket) and throttle plate control. Position throttle control cable out of the way.

3. Disconnect TPS connector from TPS/throttle body.

4. Remove 4 bolts attaching throttle body to upper intake manifold (use 8mm socket).

5. Separate throttle body and "comb" gasket from upper intake manifold and set aside.


Upper intake manifold removal

1. Disconnect electrical connector to IAC valve.

2. Disconnect the vacuum hose (near the manifold rear on driver side) going to the power brake booster.

3. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses (near the manifold center on both sides) going to the PCV valve T.
4. Disconnect the multi-purpose vacuum hose (near the manifold rear on passenger side).

5. Support the base of the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) with one hand while disconnecting the vacuum hose to it. Be careful since the EVR mounting bracket is fragile.

6. Disconnect the electrical connector to the EVR.

Note: The 1997 & 1998 models are equipped with a variable intake system (VIS) which has an additional vacuum regulator mounted on the upper intake manifold in the vicinity of the EVR. If equipped with VIS disconnect the vacuum hose and electrical connector connected to the VIS vacuum regulator.

7. Extract the retainer clip (squeeze the exposed two ends and pull) for the fuel vapor management valve Y hose (manifold center driver underside) and disconnect the hose by pushing down on the fitting.

8. Remove PCM ground lug stud/bolt (use 11mm deep socket) and PCM connector bolt (use 10mm socket). Position PCM loom out of the way.

9. Starting at the firewall remove the 8 upper intake manifold mounting bolts (using #30 torx bits). The rear ones are the most difficult to remove. Leaving the middle ones in reduces binding on the rear ones. A good collection of various length 1/4 inch drive wobble extensions simplifies the process.

10. Dislodge the 3 spark plug wires attached to the rear of the upper intake manifold.

11. Raise the rear of the intake manifold enough to extract the retainer clip for the fuel vapor management valve Y hose (manifold center passenger underside) and disconnect the hose by pushing down on the fitting.

12. Wiggle, twist and pull the upper intake manifold upward and toward the passenger side until it finally works free of the EGR tube. Set the manifold aside.

13. Remove the upper manifold gaskets and plug the openings with shop towels.

Lower intake manifold removal

If equipped with VIS there will be a cylindrical vacuum reservoir on the passenger side of the lower intake manifold.

The reservoir connects to the multi-function vacuum hose assembly.

Just reposition the reservoir away from the lower intake manifold.

1. Remove the 12 bolts (use 8mm socket) retaining the lower intake manifold to the heads.
Caution: Make sure the socket is fully seated on the head of the bolt to prevent rounding the bolt head corners.

2. Lift the lower intake manifold away from the heads and set the manifold aside.

3. Plug the head intake ports with shop towels.


egr valve removal

The Banshee supercharger kit relocates the EGR valve from the front of the engine to the rear in the vicinity of the M90 intake plenum.

1. Spray EGR pipe to EGR valve junction with PB Blaster or equivalent.

2. Label then disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve.

3. Remove two bolts (use 10mm socket) attaching intake manifold tube to EGR valve.

4. Remove power steering reservoir front (upper) retaining bolt (use 8mm socket) from power steering reservoir mounting bracket/power steering pump guard.

5. Remove power steering reservoir rear (lower) retaining bolt (use 8mm socket) from power steering reservoir mounting bracket/power steering pump guard.

6. Lift reservoir about 1/2 inch to extract locating pin from mounting bracket and slide forward out of the way.

7. Remove three bolts (use 8mm socket) attaching power steering reservoir mounting bracket to casting that supports A/C compressor.

8. Disconnect EGR valve from EGR pipe. I placed a 15 inch pipe wrench on the EGR valve base and a 12 inch adjustable wrench on the 27mm compression nut. Then I struck the adjustable wrench with a 4 pound hand sledge.

9. Set the EGR valve, gasket and bolts aside.

intake manifold egr tube/bracket removal

The upper intake manifold EGR tube/mounting bracket must be removed to install the Banshee fuel block and fuel rails. The component is secured to the head with one bolt behind the A/C compressor mount casting.

1. Rotate serpentine belt tensioner counterclockwise (use 3/8 inch square drive at red arrow) to decrease belt tension and remove belt.

2. Remove upper two bolts (use 15mm socket) that secure A/C compressor mount casting to cylinder head.

3. Loosen the two lower bolts (use 15mm socket) 3/8 to 1/2 inch then pull the assembly forward as far as possible.

4. Carefully remove the exposed retaining bolt (use 8mm 6 point box wrench). I only had a 12 point box wrench and an open end wrench. Both had a sloppy fit that risked rounding the bolt head corners. So I used a 12 inch adjustable end wrench to turn the bracket to break loose the bolt.

Then I used the box wrench to remove the bolt being careful not to drop it. Set the tube/bracket and bolt aside.

5. Reinstall the two upper bolts. Tighten all four bolts (use 15mm socket) to 31 lb-ft.

Vacuum harness removal

The Banshee M90 kit installation requires significant rework of the engine vacuum harness and the engine wiring harness. Removal of the vacuum harness provides easier access to the wiring harness.

1. Disconnect and label all vacuum harness hose connections:
a. EGR vacuum regulator (EVR)
b. EGR valve
c. Bulb reservoir
d. Evaporative emission canister purge valve
e. Fuel pressure damper

2. Carefully untangle the vacuum harness from the wiring harness and set the assembly aside.

engine wiring harness rework - getting access

On the SOHC V6 Rangers the wiring for the fuel injectors and sensors is routed in looms located outboard of the head intake ports. On the 2nd generation Explorers there is an extensive wiring harness between the fuel rails.

The Explorer wiring harness must be reworked to make room for the M90 intake manifold that is bolted directly to the heads.

Initially I attempted to rework the wiring harness with it left in the vehicle since the O2 sensor connectors and the transmission connector are located between the firewall and the block and extremely difficult to disconnect and reconnect.

However, I soon realized after tearing into the harness that there were multiple splices within the looms that prevented separating wires and connectors to their assigned side. Therefore, the entire harness must be removed and reworked where it is easily accessible. The grouping and spacing of the wires will be done relative to location of engine control related components once determined. Removing the alternator and its support casting improves access to the wiring looms that branch out from the main engine harness.

Alternator & Support Casting Removal

1. Push back the protective boot from the charge wire terminal and remove the nut (use 10mm socket).

2. Disconnect the voltage regulator electrical connector.

3. Remove the studbolt (use 13mm deep socket).

4. Remove the other 2 retaining bolts (use 13mm socket) and set the alternator aside.

5. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner (use 13mm socket).

6. Remove the 3 alternator support casting mounting bolts (use 15mm socket, universal joint needed for bolt behind upper radiator hose) and set the casting aside.

7. Detach the voltage regulator wire loom clip.

8. Disconnect crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector.

9. Detach CKP sensor wire clips.

engine wiring harness disconnect

1. Label the already disconnected EVR connector.

2. Disconnect and label the knock sensor connector.

3. Disconnect the main engine harness connector (use 10mm socket) and label the bundle.

4. Remove electrical tape attaching EVR loom to clip on passenger side valve cover.

5. Disconnect and label the engine coolant temperature sensor connector.

6. Disconnect and label the engine temperature sender connector.

7. Disconnect and label the DPFE sensor connector.

8. Disconnect and label the camshaft position (CMP) sensor connector.

9. Remove electrical tape attaching DPFE/CMP sensor loom to clip on driver side valve cover.

10. Disconnect and label the spark plug wires at the coilpack.

11. Disconnect and label the coilpack connector.

12. Remove the 4 coilpack retaining screws (use torx 25 bit). Set the coilpack aside.

13. Remove and label the 6 fuel injector connectors.

14. Make sure the shop towels in the head intake ports are firmly in position.

Fuel system removal

The Banshee M90 kit contains replacement fuel components from the fuel supply line connector to the injectors. The fuel supply line connector is a spring lock coupling located below and aft of the A/C compressor.

1. Pry the safety clip away from the spring lock coupling (use a small flat blade screwdriver).

2. Install a 5/8 inch diameter spring lock coupling release tool and push the tool in the opposite direction of fuel flow until the coupling releases.
Caution: fuel will be released.

3. Remove the fuel hose bracket bolt (use 8mm socket)

4. Remove 2 bolts (use 10mm socket) and 2 stud/bolts (use 10mm deep socket) that retain the fuel rails.

5. Using circular/pulling motion dislodge rail/injectors from heads. Do not lose the injector insulators.
Caution: fuel will be released.

6. Set aside fuel rails, fuel supply line with bracket.

7. Plug injector ports in heads.

engine wiring harness removal

1. Remove radiator upper hose bracket retaining bolt (use 8mm socket)

2. Carefully move wire looms below radiator upper hose to above radiator upper hose.

3. Reach up thru the driver side wheel well, disconnect the connector and separate it from its mount to the head.

4. Reach up thru the passenger side wheel well, disconnect the two connectors and separate them from their mounts to the head and extract the engine wiring harness. Knowing that my connectors were not attached to the head I pulled the connectors up with the disconnected driver side connector.

Then while sitting on the radiator support to be able to reach the connectors I tied a strong cord around the wires below the two connectors to keep them from slipping out of reach. Then I pried the connectors apart and successfully extracted the engine wiring harness.

5. Carefully remove any debris on the shop towels with pointed nose pliers or tweezers.

Splice S124 connects the +12 volt supply (red wire) to the IAC valve, fuel injectors #1 , #2 , #4 and the MAF sensor preventing separation of left and right bank wires.
Splice S167 connects the +12 volt supply (red wire) to fuel injectors #3 , #5 , #6 and S124 preventing separation of the left and right bank wires.
Splice S136 connects the sensor common return (gray/red wire) to the ECT, TP, DPFE, MAF sensors and splice S166.

Cut the red wire goint to injector #4 at splice S124 (front of valley).

Cut the red wire going to injector #3 at splice S167 (rear of valley).

EGR pipe removal

The Banshee M90 kit includes a new fuel block and fuel lines that are mounted on the top of the accessory mount but interfere with the stock EGR pipe.

Therefore it is necessary to remove the EGR pipe to rework it.
Note: The EGR valve and mounting bracket were removed earlier. The DPFE sensor electrical connector was disconnected earlier.

1. Spray the EGR pipe retaining nut with PB Blaster or equivalent to penetrate rust before attempting to loosen. I sprayed two days before, the day before and the same day as loosening.

2. Working under the vehicle for access loosen the nut and slide it along the tube (use 27mm open end wrench). I used a 15 inch adjustable open end wrench to break the nut loose and then a short handle 27mm open end wrench to turn the nut.

3. Remove the two DPFE sensor retaining bolts (use 7mm socket).

Caution: the DPFE hoses to the EGR pipe are very brittle and will break if bent.

4. Set aside the EGR pipe assembly.

Thermostat hose to radiator upper hose pipe removal

In my implementation of the installation of the Banshee M90 kit the main intake interferes with the pipe connecting the thermostat cover hose to the radiator upper hose.

Therefore, the pipe must be removed and replaced with an alternative.
Note: the pipe mounting bracket retaining bolt was removed earlier.

1. Drain coolant from radiator.

2. Remove radiator upper hose pipe clamp.

3. Remove thermostat cover hose clamps.

4. Separate pipe from radiator hose and thermostat hose from housing and set them aside.

Radiator grille removal

The radiator grille must be removed to install and plumb the intercooler heat exchanger that is mounted in front of the A/C condenser.

1. Remove 4 bolts (use 10mm socket) retaining below the radiator air deflector.

2. Support bumper (I attached a web strap around the bumper to the boom hook of my foldable crane).

3. Disconnect fog light electrical connector on driver and passenger side fender wells.

4. Remove inner 2 bumper retaining nuts (use 18mm socket) and then the outer 2 bumper retaining nuts and set bumper aside.

5. Remove the 4 bolts (use 10mm socket) and plastic rivets securing the radiator plastic shield. Set the shield aside.

6. Remove the 2 screws identified by red arrows below (use Phillips screw driver) that secure the left parking/turn signal/front side marker lamp assembly.

7. Pull the lamp assembly straight out for a short distance.

Disconnect electrical connectors or separate lamp sockets from assembly.

Note: the tabs on the connectors are brittle and break easily so I separate the lamp sockets from the assembly.

8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 above on the right lamp assembly.

9. Remove the 6 grille trim mounting screws identified by red arrow above and black arrows in the below two photos (use Phillips screwdriver) and separate the clips from the grille trim on each side and along the bottom. Set grille trim aside.



10. Remove the 7 plastic grille retainers identified by red arrows above. Set grille aside.

Intercooler pump installation

I chose to install the Bosch intercooler pump below and forward of the air filter enclosure base and above the body to frame bolt as shown in the photo posted by ShadowRaven.

There's about 11 inches of vertical space just above the bolt. The lower channel next to the vacuum bulb is about 3.5 inches x 4.0 inches. That's enough for the motor diameter but not enough for the impeller. The electrical connector is on the bottom and the impeller and ports on top. It is necessary to cut out some metal behind the headlight for the impeller. The photo below posted by aldive shows the lower section of the mounting area.

On the photo below posted by obie I've drawn in the area on the header panel where a section is removed for the impeller.

1. Pry (use a large flat blade screwdriver) the air filter enclosure base from its lower mounting bracket until they separate.

2. Pull the enclosure base inboard until it separates from the fender well mount. Set the enclosure base aside.

3. Detach the auxiliary relay box from its mounting bracket by depressing the tabs (use small flat blade screwdriver) while pulling upward on the box.

4. Remove the 2 auxillary relay box mounting bolts (use 8mm socket).

Set bracket aside.

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Intercooler pump installation (continued)

5. Mark a point 8 1/8" above the surface of the large oval body mount washer

and 3/4" from the inside of the vertical support.

6. Center punch the mark and drill a 1/8" diameter pilot hole.

7. Cut a a 1 1/8" diameter hole (use a hole saw) for the pump outlet port.

8. Make a horizontal mark even with the top of the hole. Make another mark 1 1/2" below and parallel to the upper mark and extend it to the flat area below the hole. Make a 3rd mark parallel to the seam on the flat section.

9. Cut the horizontal marks (I used a saber saw).
Caution: Be careful not to damage the A/C refrigerant tube in the immediate vicinity.

10. Cut the almost vertical mark. (I could not access the mark with any of my cutting tools so I drilled small holes along the mark and then bent the section back and forth until it broke away).

11. Mark a diagonal line across the corner of the lower cut.

12. Cut along the mark (I used a cut off wheel mounted on a drill extension).