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How to: Intercooled Banshee/M90 supercharger installation

This thread will document the installation of R P Caster's intercooled Banshee supercharger kit and an Eaton M90 supercharger from a Thunderbird supercoupe into my 2000 Explorer Sport with SOHC V6. Following the installation I will be generating a custom tune using SCT's Advantage III Pro Racer Package. Hopefully, this thread will assist others in performing a similar installation. The components incorporated will be listed here and updated as required. A "Lessons Learned" section will also be posted here when the project is completed. To reduce the length of this thread (to assist those duplicating the installation) this thread was closed until the basic installation was completed. The rationale for the selection of various components and their locations are posted in a related thread: SOHC V6 Supercharger. Posts related to the custom tune will be in Self Tuning My Supercharged 4.0L SOHC V6. Posts related to the installation of the thermostat lower metal housing wil be in metal thermostat housing soon available for v6 2005+ engine. Posts related to the 240 amp alternator will be in Alternator upgrade - 4G, 3G large or small case? Posts related to the rail mounted fuel pressure sensor will be in Electronic fuel pressure controller. Posts related to forced induction dynamometer testing will be in Dyno Testing & Downshift

Lessons Learned
1. My 2.7" blower pulley has a diameter of 3.12" (radius = 1.56"). My stock body bushings are in good condition. After removing the hood reinforcement directly above the pulley there was about 3/8" of clearance. The stock pulley has a diameter of 3.5" (radius = 1.75"). The installed stock pulley would only have a hood clearance of .185" (3/16") clearance after removing the hood reinforcement. Raising the hood stops and adjusting the hood latch could gain an additional 1/8" of clearance without being noticeable. A 1" body lift should eliminate the need to cut the hood reinforcement when installing a stock pulley but the hood insulation may have to be cut out above the pulley.
2. Utilizing the Banshee supplied main intake components (which requires deleting cruise control due to insufficient hood clearance) eliminates the need for custom fabricated parts and definitely reduces the cost and effort to install the supercharger.
3. Rewiring the engine wiring harness to eliminate the stock wiring bundles between the head intake ports is an error prone, time consuming and tedious task. It may be possible to utilize a Ranger engine wiring harness with a lot less effort but this has not been confirmed.
4. Low maximum boost (using the stock pulley) probably does not require upgrading the fuel injectors, fuel pump or a custom tune. However, I recommend an installed air/fuel ratio meter to detect lean conditions if accelerating at WOT to max engine speed. A custom tune can maximize the performance gains with a stock pulley and is required for smaller pulleys (increased boost), MAF sensor size increase, and injector flow rate increase.
5. Installing a very high flow fuel pump (340 liters/hr) will increase the fuel pressure at the fuel rails and richen the air/fuel ratio.
6. Reducing exhaust flow restrictions reduces maximum boost and increases performance. However, exhaust modifications should be carefully considered to avoid losing low end torque. The Dynomax VT muffler seems to be effective in achieving both objectives.
7. Flexible hose (even 5 layer reinforced silicone) is not suitable for the main intake tube between the throttle body and the plenum. It handles high pressure but collapses from high vacuum. Only use rigid tubing in this section of the main intake.

Begin Parts List

1: Banshee intercooled supercharger kit
1: Henson Performance custom tune

Fuel Related
1: Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump 11142 (340 liters/hr @ 40 psi)
6: Siemans Deka 4 high impedance (long style) injectors with EV1 connector (60 lbs/hr @ 43.5 psi)
6: Delphi EV1 fuel injector connectors (stock connectors will work)
6: fuel injector adapters (seals/insulators) PN F77Z-9G512-AA
The three items listed below are not required for stock fuel pressure damper
1: fuel pressure/temperature sensor Ford PN 3F2E-9G756-AD, Motorcraft PN CM5229, Standard PN FPS5
1: fuel pressure/temperature sensor mating connector with pigtails PN 3U2Z-14S411-UC
1: custom fabricated fuel pressure/temperature sensor adapter

M90 Related
1: 1991 Thunderbird supercoupe Eaton M90 supercharger (other years will work)
1: 2.7" dia keyed supercharger pulley (pulley size dependent on desired boost, Dayco 5061045 serpentine belt supplied with kit works fine with 2.7" pulley)
1: M90 supercharger coupler from DaRossi
1: M90 snout seal
2: 4 oz bottles of GM supercharger oil

Intake Manifold Related
1: Standard AX3 air temperature sensor
1: Standard S567 sensor electrical connector with pigtails
1: 1/8" NPT male 90 degree elbow

Plenum Related
1: Auto Meter boost/vacuum gauge 2601 (does not support datalogging)

Intake Related
1: Akimoto 3" intake dia cone air filter or equivalent
1: 45 deg 3" dia to 4" dia silicone adapter
1: 4" dia MAF sensor adapter
1: Ford Racing Lightning 90 mm MAF sensor, P/N M-12579-L54
1: silicone 4" to 3" dia reducer from www.siliconeintakes.com
2: 4" dia T-bolt clamps
2: silicone 3" dia couplers from www.siliconeintakes.com
4: 3/8" FPT stainless steel bungs
1: 75 mm Ford Racing throttle body
1: custom throttle body to 3" dia tube adapter
1: custom 3" dia tube to plenum adapter
1: silicone 3" dia 45 degree elbow
1: 75 mm to 65 mm transition "gasket"
1: 3" dia tube to plenum "gasket"
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
1/2" i.d. fuel vapor hose (SAE 30R7)
1: Dayco 1.5" I.D. x 25" long flexible radiator hose, P/N 81201 (eliminates stock upper hoses & coupler for clearance)

Remote IAC Valve Related
1: Red Dot metal weatherproof electrical 5 outlet box S108E (1/2", 1 gang, silver) from Home Depot (only need 1 end and 1 side outlet)
1: Red Dot metal closure plug (1/2") from Home Depot
1: 2000 Mustang GT/Crown Victoria 4.6L IAC valve
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
2: 90 deg elbow 1/2" MPT x 1/2" hose barb fittings
1/8" x 1 1/2" aluminum stock

PCV Related
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
3/8" dia. transmission oil cooler hose
7/8" dia. hose clamps
1: crankcase breather (crankcase vent separator) PN F77Z*6A785*AB
1: Oil Separator catch can for all PCV systems and HHO

Intercooler related
1: Pex 3/4" MPT x 3/4" barb elbow
2: 3/4" FPT conduit locknut
3: Pex 3/4" barb elbows
1: Bosch intercooler pump 0 392 022 002 (317 GPH)
1: Pex 3/4" x 1/2" barb reducer
1: mounted heat exchanger (I used a modified stock auxiliary ATF cooler)
2: Pex 1/2" barb elbows
2: -08 AN to 3/8" NPT flare to pipe adapters
2: -08 AN push-loc 90 deg hose ends
1: Pex 1/2" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow
2: 1/2" FPT conduit locknut
3/4" ID heater hose
3/4" ID hose clamps
5/8" ID heater hose
5/8" ID hose clamps
1/2" ID heater hose
1/2" ID hose clamps
10' 1/4" diameter convoluted loom
10' 16 gauge stranded copper insulated wire
1' 1/8" ID heat shrink
1: 1/4" dia terminal lug
1: 1/4" dia flat washer
2: 1/4"-20 x 3/4" hex head bolts
2: 1/4"-20 lock nuts
RTV sealant

Engine wiring harness related
1: 3/16" dia. T vacuum connector
2: 3/16" dia. vacuum connector
3/16" ID flexible hose (vacuum or washer fluid)
1" dia split convoluted loom
3/4" dia split convoluted loom
1/2" dia split convoluted loom
3/8" dia split convoluted loom
1/4" split dia convoluted loom
16 gauge stranded copper wire (insulated)
18 gauge stranded copper wire (insulated) of various colors
1/8" dia heat shrink tubing

End Parts List
 


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2000StreetRod

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Intercooler pump installation (continued)

13. Grind away the lower cut to match the shape of the pump.
Grind1.jpg

Grind2.jpg


14. Use the pump mounting bracket as a template and mark a point above the existing hole.
Mount1.jpg

15. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole.

16. Remove paint to bare metal (I used a round wire brush in a drill) near the mounting holes.
Bare.jpg


17. Using a drill enlarge the holes in the mounting bracket to 1/4".
Mount2.jpg


18. Install 1/4"-20 x 3/4" bolts with lockwashers and nuts on the mounting bracket and tighten (use 7/16" deep socket).
Mount3.jpg
 


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Intercooler pump installation (continued)

19. Loosely install the mounting bracket and clamp onto pump.
Mount4.jpg


20. Place the pump assembly in position with the outlet centered vertically in the drilled hole and pointed in the direction of greatest forward clearance.
Position1.jpg


21. Rotate the bracket/bolts so they align with the mounting holes.
Position2.jpg


22. Rotate the T-bolt clamp on the pump so it is positioned as shown below.
Position3.jpg


23. Tighten the T-bolt clamp and then remove the pump assembly.

24. Cut two 1 1/2" lengths of heat shrink and slip one on each of the intercooler pump connector pigtails.

25. Cut a one 1" length of heat shrink and slip on the blue pigtail. Make sure the blue pigtail is at least 5" long. If not, it will have to be lengthened to reach the intended chassis ground. Strip 1/4" insulation from the blue pigtail end and solder to a 1/4" terminal lug. Heat the shrink positioned as shown below.
Cnx1.jpg


26. Strip 1/2" of insulation from the red pigtail and a length of 16 gauge stranded copper wire. Install a 1 1/2" length of heat shrink on the length of wire. Twist the wire ends together, solder, slide the heat shrink over the connection and heat it.
Cnx2.jpg

Attach electrical connector to pump.
 




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Intercooler pump installation (continued)

27. Cut a 9'6" length of 1/4" diameter convoluted loom and install on pump pigtails. Secure the loom with cable ties near each end of the blue pigtail.
Note: I had a previously installed length of 3/8" diameter convoluted loom going from the pump area to an A pillar pod so I only cut a 4 1/2" length of 1/4" diameter convoluted loom.
Loom1.jpg


28. Cut a 1 3/4" length of 3/4" diameter heater hose and install with hose clamp on pump outlet port leaving 3/4" protruding from end of port.

29. Tighten clamp in position shown below with screw head facing vertically upward.
OutClamp1.jpg


30. Install pump assembly in position. Install a locknut on bracket top bolt and tighten.

31. Install a 1/4" flat washer and then the ground lug on the bracket bottom bolt. Install a locknut and tighten.
Loom2.jpg


32. Cut a 2 3/4" length of 5/8" diameter heater hose. Insert a 3/4" Pex elbow into cut length with hose clamp positioned as below.
OutClamp2.jpg

Tighten clamp.

33. Insert a 3/4" Pex elbow into other end of cut length with hose clamp. Do not tighten.

34. Insert the 3/4" Pex elbow at the tightened end of cut length into the protruding 3/4" hose on the pump outlet with hose clamp. Tighten clamp until hose is secure.
Note: the 3/4" Pex diameter is only about 5/8" so it will easily go into the 3/4" diameter hose. Retighten the clamp several hours after the initial tightening to make sure connection is secure.

35. Slip a hose clamp over the end of a length of 5/8" diameter heater hose long enough to reach from the vertical Pex elbow to the heat exchanger. Connect the hose to the heat exchanger and the elbow. (In my case I had to install a Pex 3/4" x 1/2" reducer since the ATF cooler ports are 3/8" dia.)
OutClamp3.jpg

OutClamp4.jpg
 




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Coolant reservoir modifications

The stock coolant reservoir will be modified for additional use as an unpressurized intercooler coolant tank.

1. Siphon out the coolant and windshield washer fluid from the reservoir assembly.

2. Disconnect the radiator overflow hose from the coolant reservoir.

3. Disconnect windshield washer pump connector.
WinWashCnx.jpg


4. Remove assembly aft mounting bolt (use 10mm socket)
ResvrMnt1.jpg

There's a mounting tab below the cruise control that may have a retaining nut installed.

5. Remove assembly lower mounting nut and forward mounting bolt (use 10mm socket).
ResvrMnt2.jpg


6. Position assembly forward and disconnect windshield wash hoses.
WinWashHoses.jpg


7. Clean assembly making sure the coolant overflow port is clear of obstruction. (Mine was packed with crud preventing flow in either direction).

8. Use a light to show where the internal seam is. Use a 3/4" locking nut to identify a location to drill a hole avoiding the internal seam and support for the overflow port.
ResvrMark1.jpg


9. Drill a 1" dia hole for the 3/4" fitting. I used a hole saw.
ResvrHole1.jpg

Remove any burrs.
 




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Coolant reservoir modifications (continued)

10. Thread a 3/4" FPT conduit locknut (with concave side facing up) onto a Pex 3/4" MPT x 3/4" barb elbow until the end of the threads. Screw the fitting partially into the cut hole. Apply RTV to the exposed threads. Screw the fitting into the cut hole until the outlet port is positioned as shown.
ResvrRTV1.jpg

Tighten the locknut after one hour.

11. Apply RTV or equivalent to the base of the elbow exposed threads inside the reservoir. Wait one hour.

12. Install a 3/4" FPT conduit locknut (with concave side facing toward the reservoir) onto the fitting. I used a telescoping magnetic retriever to simplify the process. Tighten the locknut until snug by pushing its corners with a strong, long, flat blade screwdriver.
ResvrFit2.jpg


13. Use a light to show where the injection port is on the fender side of the reservoir. Use a 1/2" locking nut to identify a location to drill a hole avoiding the injection port and the bends.
ResvrMark2.jpg


14. Drill a 3/4" dia hole for the 1/2" fitting. I used a flat blade drill bit.
ResvrHole2.jpg

Remove any burrs.

15. Thread a 1/2" FPT conduit locknut (with concave side facing up) onto a Pex 1/2" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow until the end of the threads. Screw the fitting partially into the cut hole. Apply RTV to the exposed threads. Screw the fitting into the cut hole until the inlet port is positioned as shown.
ResvrFit3.jpg

Tighten the locknut after one hour.
 




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Coolant reservoir modifications (continued)

16. Apply RTV or equivalent to the base of the elbow exposed threads inside the reservoir. Wait one hour.

17. Install a 1/2" locknut onto the elbow and tighten.
ResvrFit4.jpg


18. Attach a length of 1/2" dia heater hose to the 1/2" Pex elbow as shown below.
InClamp1.jpg

A clamp with a small worm screw is required to avoid interference with the fender.

19. Route the free end of the length of 1/2" dia heater hose below the cruise control servo bracket and above the heater blower.
RouteHose1.jpg

RouteHose2.jpg


20. Work the hose and reservoir close to its mounting position.

21. Attach the washer fluid hoses.

22. Position the reservoir on its mounts. Install two 1/4" dia flat washers on the studs and two M6-1.0 hex nuts. It may be necessary to temporarily disconnect the cruise control servo mounting bracket (use 10mm socket) to access the aft stud.

23. Connect the washer fluid pump electrical connector.

24. Install the two reservoir assembly mounting bolts (use 10mm socket).
 




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Coolant reservoir hookup

1. Cut a 1 3/4" length of 3/4" dia heater hose and install with hose clamp on a Pex 3/4" barb elbow.

2. Cut a length of 5/8" dia heater hose and install with hose clamp on the other end of the Pex 3/4" barb elbow.

3. Push the 3/4" dia heater hose/elbow assembly with hose clamp onto the inlet port of the intercooler pump. Position 5/8" hose as shown below and tighten hose clamp.
InClamp2.jpg


4. Position the auxiliary relay box mounting bracket and install the 2 mounting bolts (use 8mm socket).
AuxRelBolts.jpg


5. Attach the auxiliary relay box to its mounting bracket by pushing it downward onto the metal tabs.
AuxRelayBox.jpg


6. Use a cable tie to position the wiring harness away from the pump T-bolt clamp.

7. Install the air filter enclosure base. I reinstalled the inlet cone "silencer" to pull less air from the engine compartment after I modify the enclosure top to eliminate the "cone" air filter.

8. Leaving enough hose length to allow clearance for the air filter enclosure clamps cut the 5/8" dia hose to fit the distance to the reservoir outlet port.
OutHose1.jpg


9. Attach the 5/8" dia hose and clamp to the reservoir outlet port.
OutHose2.jpg


10. Attach the radiator overflow hose to the associated coolant reservoir port and the radiator filler neck.
 




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reservoir leak & pump check

1. Add a gallon of tap water to the coolant reservoir and check for leaks from the inlet and outlet ports. I initially used O-rings on both ports but the outlet port leaked so I replaced the O-rings with RTV.

2. Connect one end of a hose to the heat exchanger outlet port and place the other end in a container with a gallon or more capacity.

3. Connect a 12 vdc power source (I used a battery charger) negative terminal to the chassis and the positive terminal to the positive wire of the intercooler pump. The pump should prime itself and produce output flow. I used it to flush the ATF from my auxiliary ATF cooler converted to my heat exchanger. There was a current spike when the pump started but the current flow immediately dropped to about 1.2 amps.
 




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Fuel vapor hose

The stock fuel vapor management hose connections to each side of the intake manifold combine in a T fitting located above the thermostat housing.
FuelVap1.jpg


Only one connection is used on the M90 installation so cut the vertical section of the T 1 1/2" below the horizontal section.
FuelVap2.jpg

Since I had the power steering pump, A/C compressor and support casting removed for an alternator charge cable upgrade I just disconnected the entire fuel vapor hose assembly and then cut it with a hacksaw.

Install a PCV reducing elbow (Dorman 47028) and hose clamp on the remaining stub.
FuelVap3.jpg
 




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PCV valve connection

On the stock engine the PCV valve (blue arrow below) is connected to the crankcase breather.
PCVValve.jpg

For the stock configuration the PCV valve was difficult to access when replacement was needed. With it located next to intercooler fittings, fuel hose and pressure sensor, and behind the Banshee plenum access would be almost impossible.
Restart2.jpg


My breather was clogged with gunk after 150K miles so I replaced it.
BreatherOld2.jpg

An oil separator is justified to prevent oil and sludge from flowing to the M90 rotors. The separator is located between the breather and the PCV valve to extend the life of the valve.

Install a length of 3/8" dia. hose with clamp on the breather port and route as shown below.
BreatherHose1.jpg


It is also an appropriate time to replace the knock sensor if desired.
KnockSensor.jpg

I have been plagued with excessive knock sensor retard so I installed a new OEM sensor.
 




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Fuel system installation

1. Blow out all of the debris in the engine block valley between the heads (I used a leaf blower).

2. Lubricate the 8-AN to quick disconnect adapter joint with motor oil.

3. Connect the 8-AN to quick disconnect adapter to the fuel supply hose.
ANAdapter.jpg


4. Install quick disconnect retainer.
ANAdptrClip.jpg


5. Connect one end of 8-AN x 6" braided hose to fuel block & tighten.

6. Connect other end of 8-AN x 6" braided hose to 8-AN to quick disconnect adapter but do not tighten.

7. Install a 90 degree 6-AN elbow on one end of the 6-AN x 7" braided hose but do not tighten.

8. Install a 90 degree 6-AN elbow on the straight end of the 6-AN x 7.75" braided hose but do not tighten.

9. Position power steering pump reservoir bracket on accessory casting and install one stock mounting bolt (use 8mm socket)

10. Position fuel block/base above power steering reservoir bracket and attach to accessory casting with two screws (use allen wrench).
FuelSys3.jpg

There is no clearance between the valve cover and the 8-AN braided hose fitting.

The Banshee kit planned configuration for the front fuel hoses placed outward stress on the fuel rails/injectors with my long high flow injectors. I swapped the supplied hoses and fittings around to eliminate the outward stress.

11. Remove the straight 3/8" mpt to 6-AN adapter from the forward section of the fuel block. Remove the 3/8" mpt to 6-AN 45 degree elbow adapter from the aft section of the fuel block.

12. Install the 3/8" mpt to 6-AN 45 degree elbow adapter into the front section of the fuel block (use thread sealer). Make sure the elbow points down and aft (7 o'clock position). Install the straight 3/8" mpt to 6-AN adapter into the aft section of the fuel block (use thread sealer).

13. For the 6-AN x 7" braided hose connect one end to the straight adapter in the fuel block but do not tighten. Connect the other end with the 90 degree elbow to the passenger side fuel rail but don't tighten.

14. For the 6-AN x 7.75" braided hose connect the end with the 45 degree elbow to the 45 degree elbow adapter in the fuel block but do not tighten. Position the driver side fuel rail supply hose above the passenger side fuel rail supply hose. Connect the end with the 90 degree elbow to the driver side fuel rail but don't tighten.
Rework1.jpg


15. Position the front fuel hoses to avoid contact with the base of the M90 when it is later installed.
Rework3.jpg

16. Tighten the front hose fittings using a backup wrench.
 




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Fuel system installation (continued)

17. Remove fuel pressure damper from stock driver side fuel rail.

The Banshee fuel pressure damper adapter comes with a plugged tee fitting installed for connecting a fuel pressure gauge/sensor. Unfortunately, it interferes with the intercooler 3/8" mpt to 8-AN/8-AN to barb elbow assembly.
FPDamper.jpg


18. Delete tee fitting from fuel pressure damper adapter. In my case I had a custom adapter fabricated for a 3rd generation fuel pressure/temperature sensor.

19. Install fuel pressure damper onto Banshee adapter with the deleted tee fitting.
FPSensor2.jpg


The Banshee installation instructions for the Ranger positions the fuel pressure damper assembly on the driver side of the rear fuel hose. For the Explorer there is less interference with the wiring harness if the damper assembly is positioned on the passenger side of the rear fuel hose.
PresTempSnsr.jpg


20. Connect (do not tighten) one male port on the 6-AN male x 1/8" fip tee to the available end of the 6-AN x 4.5" braided hose attached to the rear of the driver side fuel rail.

21. Connect a 6-AN 90 degree elbow to available end of the 6-AN male x 1/8" fip tee but do not tighten.

22. Connect a 6-AN 90 degree elbow to the available end of the 6-AN x 4.5" braided hose but do not tighten.

23. Connect the fuel pressure damper/6-AN x 4.5" braided hose assembly to the rear of the driver and passenger side fuel rails.

24. Tighten all rear fuel hoses and fittings using a backup wrench.

25. Lubricate and install fuel injector adapters (insulator/seal) into injector ports in heads. I placed a 15mm hex socket onto a 3/8" x 6" drive extension. Then I pressed the socket end squarely on the top of the adapter and tapped the extension with a hammer. When the adapter was mostly into the head bore I switched to a 14mm socket and then tapped the drive extension until the adapter seated in the bore.

26. Lubricate the lower O-rings of the injectors and then press/wiggle them into the adapters with electrical connectors outboard.
Clearance.jpg

There's not much clearance between the injectors and the Banshee intake manifold.

27. Lubricate injector upper O-rings and press/wiggle fuel rails onto injectors.
Rails.jpg


28. Temporarily attach straps or wire around the fuel rails to the stock fuel rail mounting bolts (identified below).
NoTray.jpg

Tighten the bolts (and straps) to keep the rails in place when temporarily pressurized.

29. Energize fuel pump and check for any leaks. One method is to remove the fuel pump relay, insert a wire (I used a small flat blade screwdriver) into the pump side of the contacts, connect one terminal of a battery charger to the wire (screwdriver shaft) and the other terminal to chassis ground. The pump should run continuously. Tighten any leaking connections.
 




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power steering reservoir installation

1. Lift upward on the power steering reservoir until the bottom clears the guide pin then position the reservoir to seat on the guide pin.

2. Install the hose support bracket mounting nut (red arrow below).
PSHosBrkt.jpg


3. Install the two reservoir mounting bolts (use 8mm hex socket).
PSRBolt1.jpg

PSRBolt2.jpg
 




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Coil Pack Installation

1. Clean the top four corners of the coil pack down to bare metal.
CoilPack1.jpg


2. Mount coil pack to bracket/driver side valve cover with 4 torx screws (use T25 bit).
CoilPack2.jpg


3. Route and connect driver side spark plug wires to coil pack.
CoilPack3.jpg

Make sure #5 plug wire is connected to the inboard front coil pack terminal and #6 plug wire is connected to the middle front coil pack terminal.
 




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Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Intake manifold base installation & intercooler hose routing

The Banshee intake manifold comes with a gasket attached to the bottom of the base.
(insert photo)

1. Clean the surface of the heads around the intake ports (use alcohol or paint thinner).

2. Apply a uniform, thin layer of Permatex Sensor-Safe Blue RTV (supplied with Banshee kit) to the surface of the heads around the intake ports and to the mating area of the gasket on the bottom of the base of the intake manifold.

3. Position the intake manifold on the heads and carefully start the twelve 6mm x 1" hex head bolts. Evenly tighten the bolts (use 6mm allen tool).

4. Remove the 3/8" mpt plugs from the driver and passenger side intercooler external ports.

5. Install (use thread sealer) 3/8" mpt to 8-AN adapters into the driver and passenger side intercooler external ports.
In my case the passenger side intercooler hose interfered with the fuel pressure/temperature sensor so I added a 3/8" NPT extension.
Extension.jpg


6. Install 8-AN 90 degree elbows onto the 3/8" mpt to 8-AN adapters on the driver and passenger side intercooler external ports.

7. Remove the upper two screws from the heater blower housing. Install 3/4" cable clamps on the 1/2" dia. hose at the screw locations. Reinstall the screws.
IntercoolerHose1.jpg

The cable clamp keeps the hose from being damaged by the hood hinge.

8. Route the hose as shown below and cut to length. Attach the hose with clamp to the passenger side intercooler 8-AN 90 degree elbow.
IntercoolerHose2.jpg
 




2000StreetRod

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City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Intake manifold base installation & intercooler hose routing (cont)

9. Install a cut to fit hose and clamp on the heat exchanger outlet port.
IntercoolerHose3.jpg

10. Install a Pex 1/2" 90 degree barb elbow with clamp on the vertical hose. Install a clamp on the horizontal hose after routing the hose as shown above and in the three photos below.
IntercoolerHose4.jpg


IntercoolerHose5.jpg


IntercoolerHose6.jpg

11. Install a Pex 1/2" 90 degree barb elbow with clamp on the cut length of 1/2" dia. hose in the corner of the engine bay. I installed the fitting before routing the hose into the corner. I also raised the battery junction box and moved it out the way for easier access.

12. Install another length of 1/2" dia. hose with clamp on the Pex 1/2" 90 degree barb elbow in the corner of the engine bay.

13. Route the length of hose behind the top of the power brake booster as shown below.
IntercoolerHose7.jpg


14. Cut the hose to fit leaving enough excess to force the hose below the level of the coilpack connector.
IntercoolerHose8.jpg

15. Attach the hose with clamp to the driver side intercooler 8-AN 90 degree elbow.
 




2000StreetRod

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City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Windshield washer hose reroute

The passenger side intercooler hose interferes with the windshield washer hose.
IntercoolerHose2.jpg


Also, the passenger side breakout of the engine wiring harness must go behind the passenger side intercooler hose to avoid interference with the Banshee plenum.
Restart2.jpg

However, that causes interference with the washer hose T connections.

1. Disconnect the T connector hoses. (My connector broke leaving pieces in the hoses which I broke by carefully crushing the hose with pliers and then extracted.)

2. Tighten the PCM mounting studs.

3. Install a small cable clamp around the supply hose. Route the hose as shown below mounting the clamp (red arrow) on the passenger side PCM mounting stud (use M6-1.0 nut).
WasherHose.jpg

4. Cut the hose at the location shown above (green arrow) and insert 3/16" T.

5. Install 3/16" couplers (yellow arrows above) and a cut to fit length of 3/16" hose.

6. Push the hose back to the firewall to wedge between the PCM and rubber moulding.
 




2000StreetRod

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City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Engine wiring harness rework

Much of the stock engine wiring harness is routed in the valley between the head intake ports.
NoLowerManifoldCenter.jpg

That area will be occupied by the Bashee M90 intake manifold.
TightFit.jpg


Therefore, the wiring harness must be reworked to route the central wires outboard of the intake ports. I planned to keep track of the engine harness wiring changes but lost track when my first attempt didn't work and I had to start over.

In general, all of the convoluted looms were removed except for the one associated with the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. I quickly learned that even though I had a complete set of wiring diagrams with wire colors listed it can be difficult to distinguish one color combination from another. Color confusion can be reduced by cutting and splicing a minimum number of wires at a time. First, identify wires that must be moved from one side to the other. My configuration is shown below.
EngHarnessR.jpg


I placed the PCM at one end of my workspace and C115 at the other end and pulled the cable taught. Wires that were too long were shortened and wires that were too short were lengthened. The photos below show the passenger side breakouts with the associated connectors. The trigger wire for #1 cylinder was left external to the harness for easy access to the dynamometer ignition sensor.
EngHarnR1.jpg

On my 2000 SOHC V6 the IAT sensor is integrated with the MAF sensor. An individual IAT sensor must be installed in the Banshee manifold since the blower compression significantly increases intake air temperature. The function of the intercooler is to reduce intake air temperature.
EngHarnR2.jpg

I just cut the two wires to the stock IAT sensor about 7" from the connector.
The extra non-stock connector next to the MAF sensor connector allows me to insert a wiring extension for monitoring the MAF sensor analog voltage output from the driver position with a voltmeter.
EngHarnR3.jpg
 




2000StreetRod

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City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Engine wiring harness rework (continued)

The photos below show the driver side breakouts with the associated connectors.
EngHarnR4.jpg

The length of the IAC valve and EGR vacuum regulator wires are yet to be determined.
EngHarnR5.jpg

It was necessary to shorten the alternator regulator wires.
EngHarnR6.jpg
 


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2000StreetRod

Staff member
Moderator
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
10,599
Reaction score
273
City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Engine wiring harness installation

The reworked engine wiring harness should be installed prior to installing the Banshee intake manifold.

1. Start with the connectors that fit between the firewall and the rear of the engine (C113, C118 & C169). Normally, these connectors attach to clips on the heads as shown below.
JPlug1.jpg

After numerous attempts I gave up trying to attach the C113 and C118 connectors to the clips on the rear of the heads. There just wasn't enough room to force them on the clips either reaching down from above or up from the sides. Connect the male and female sections of the 3 connectors. I was afraid they would rattle against the block and trigger the knock sensor so I pushed split pipe insulation up and around them.
C113Foam.jpg


2. Connect the PCM connector and it's associated ground.
EngHarnInstall1.jpg

Tighten the PCM connector bolt (use 10 mm socket) until snug but do not overtighten. I replaced the ground stud bolt with a M6-1.0 hex bolt. Be careful not to collapse the washer hose next to the ground bolt.

3. Connect the fuel injector connectors.
EngHarnInstall2.jpg

Make sure they snap into place.

4. Position C115 on the metal tab and lock it into position.
EngHarnInstall3.jpg

Connect C115 male and female connectors (use 10 mm socket).

5. If the coil pack is not installed then install it with 4 screws (use T25 Torx bit). Install the radio suppressor ground lug under the head of the driver side/aft coil pack screw. Red arrow identifies passenger side/forward screw.
EngHarnInstall4.jpg

Connect the coil pack connector.
 




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