How to: Intercooled Banshee/M90 supercharger installation | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Intercooled Banshee/M90 supercharger installation

This thread will document the installation of R P Caster's intercooled Banshee supercharger kit and an Eaton M90 supercharger from a Thunderbird supercoupe into my 2000 Explorer Sport with SOHC V6. Following the installation I will be generating a custom tune using SCT's Advantage III Pro Racer Package. Hopefully, this thread will assist others in performing a similar installation. The components incorporated will be listed here and updated as required. A "Lessons Learned" section will also be posted here when the project is completed. To reduce the length of this thread (to assist those duplicating the installation) this thread was closed until the basic installation was completed. The rationale for the selection of various components and their locations are posted in a related thread: SOHC V6 Supercharger. Posts related to the custom tune will be in Self Tuning My Supercharged 4.0L SOHC V6. Posts related to the installation of the thermostat lower metal housing wil be in metal thermostat housing soon available for v6 2005+ engine. Posts related to the 240 amp alternator will be in Alternator upgrade - 4G, 3G large or small case? Posts related to the rail mounted fuel pressure sensor will be in Electronic fuel pressure controller. Posts related to forced induction dynamometer testing will be in Dyno Testing & Downshift

Lessons Learned
1. My 2.7" blower pulley has a diameter of 3.12" (radius = 1.56"). My stock body bushings are in good condition. After removing the hood reinforcement directly above the pulley there was about 3/8" of clearance. The stock pulley has a diameter of 3.5" (radius = 1.75"). The installed stock pulley would only have a hood clearance of .185" (3/16") clearance after removing the hood reinforcement. Raising the hood stops and adjusting the hood latch could gain an additional 1/8" of clearance without being noticeable. A 1" body lift should eliminate the need to cut the hood reinforcement when installing a stock pulley but the hood insulation may have to be cut out above the pulley.
2. Utilizing the Banshee supplied main intake components (which requires deleting cruise control due to insufficient hood clearance) eliminates the need for custom fabricated parts and definitely reduces the cost and effort to install the supercharger.
3. Rewiring the engine wiring harness to eliminate the stock wiring bundles between the head intake ports is an error prone, time consuming and tedious task. It may be possible to utilize a Ranger engine wiring harness with a lot less effort but this has not been confirmed.
4. Low maximum boost (using the stock pulley) probably does not require upgrading the fuel injectors, fuel pump or a custom tune. However, I recommend an installed air/fuel ratio meter to detect lean conditions if accelerating at WOT to max engine speed. A custom tune can maximize the performance gains with a stock pulley and is required for smaller pulleys (increased boost), MAF sensor size increase, and injector flow rate increase.
5. Installing a very high flow fuel pump (340 liters/hr) will increase the fuel pressure at the fuel rails and richen the air/fuel ratio.
6. Reducing exhaust flow restrictions reduces maximum boost and increases performance. However, exhaust modifications should be carefully considered to avoid losing low end torque. The Dynomax VT muffler seems to be effective in achieving both objectives.
7. Flexible hose (even 5 layer reinforced silicone) is not suitable for the main intake tube between the throttle body and the plenum. It handles high pressure but collapses from high vacuum. Only use rigid tubing in this section of the main intake.

Begin Parts List

1: Banshee intercooled supercharger kit
1: Henson Performance custom tune

Fuel Related
1: Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump 11142 (340 liters/hr @ 40 psi)
6: Siemans Deka 4 high impedance (long style) injectors with EV1 connector (60 lbs/hr @ 43.5 psi)
6: Delphi EV1 fuel injector connectors (stock connectors will work)
6: fuel injector adapters (seals/insulators) PN F77Z-9G512-AA
The three items listed below are not required for stock fuel pressure damper
1: fuel pressure/temperature sensor Ford PN 3F2E-9G756-AD, Motorcraft PN CM5229, Standard PN FPS5
1: fuel pressure/temperature sensor mating connector with pigtails PN 3U2Z-14S411-UC
1: custom fabricated fuel pressure/temperature sensor adapter

M90 Related
1: 1991 Thunderbird supercoupe Eaton M90 supercharger (other years will work)
1: 2.7" dia keyed supercharger pulley (pulley size dependent on desired boost, Dayco 5061045 serpentine belt supplied with kit works fine with 2.7" pulley)
1: M90 supercharger coupler from DaRossi
1: M90 snout seal
2: 4 oz bottles of GM supercharger oil

Intake Manifold Related
1: Standard AX3 air temperature sensor
1: Standard S567 sensor electrical connector with pigtails
1: 1/8" NPT male 90 degree elbow

Plenum Related
1: Auto Meter boost/vacuum gauge 2601 (does not support datalogging)

Intake Related
1: Akimoto 3" intake dia cone air filter or equivalent
1: 45 deg 3" dia to 4" dia silicone adapter
1: 4" dia MAF sensor adapter
1: Ford Racing Lightning 90 mm MAF sensor, P/N M-12579-L54
1: silicone 4" to 3" dia reducer from
2: 4" dia T-bolt clamps
2: silicone 3" dia couplers from
4: 3/8" FPT stainless steel bungs
1: 75 mm Ford Racing throttle body
1: custom throttle body to 3" dia tube adapter
1: custom 3" dia tube to plenum adapter
1: silicone 3" dia 45 degree elbow
1: 75 mm to 65 mm transition "gasket"
1: 3" dia tube to plenum "gasket"
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
1/2" i.d. fuel vapor hose (SAE 30R7)
1: Dayco 1.5" I.D. x 25" long flexible radiator hose, P/N 81201 (eliminates stock upper hoses & coupler for clearance)

Remote IAC Valve Related
1: Red Dot metal weatherproof electrical 5 outlet box S108E (1/2", 1 gang, silver) from Home Depot (only need 1 end and 1 side outlet)
1: Red Dot metal closure plug (1/2") from Home Depot
1: 2000 Mustang GT/Crown Victoria 4.6L IAC valve
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
2: 90 deg elbow 1/2" MPT x 1/2" hose barb fittings
1/8" x 1 1/2" aluminum stock

PCV Related
1: Dorman PCV elbow 47028
3/8" dia. transmission oil cooler hose
7/8" dia. hose clamps
1: crankcase breather (crankcase vent separator) PN F77Z*6A785*AB
1: Oil Separator catch can for all PCV systems and HHO

Intercooler related
1: Pex 3/4" MPT x 3/4" barb elbow
2: 3/4" FPT conduit locknut
3: Pex 3/4" barb elbows
1: Bosch intercooler pump 0 392 022 002 (317 GPH)
1: Pex 3/4" x 1/2" barb reducer
1: mounted heat exchanger (I used a modified stock auxiliary ATF cooler)
2: Pex 1/2" barb elbows
2: -08 AN to 3/8" NPT flare to pipe adapters
2: -08 AN push-loc 90 deg hose ends
1: Pex 1/2" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow
2: 1/2" FPT conduit locknut
3/4" ID heater hose
3/4" ID hose clamps
5/8" ID heater hose
5/8" ID hose clamps
1/2" ID heater hose
1/2" ID hose clamps
10' 1/4" diameter convoluted loom
10' 16 gauge stranded copper insulated wire
1' 1/8" ID heat shrink
1: 1/4" dia terminal lug
1: 1/4" dia flat washer
2: 1/4"-20 x 3/4" hex head bolts
2: 1/4"-20 lock nuts
RTV sealant

Engine wiring harness related
1: 3/16" dia. T vacuum connector
2: 3/16" dia. vacuum connector
3/16" ID flexible hose (vacuum or washer fluid)
1" dia split convoluted loom
3/4" dia split convoluted loom
1/2" dia split convoluted loom
3/8" dia split convoluted loom
1/4" split dia convoluted loom
16 gauge stranded copper wire (insulated)
18 gauge stranded copper wire (insulated) of various colors
1/8" dia heat shrink tubing

End Parts List

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Main intake installation (continued)

Remove the ATF dipstick and then the tube.
Increase the bend in the tube so it is aft about 1.5".

Bend the mounting bracket

180 degrees and as required to mate with the mounting bolt.

Insert the ATF dipstick.

Install the 3" dia. silicone 45 degree elbow with T-bolt clamps onto the post-throttle body coupler but do not tighten either clamp.
Note: Even 5 ply silicone hose will collapse from high vacuum when installed between the throttle body and the plenum. Only rigid tubing is suitable.

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Main intake installation (continued)

My 75 mm throttle body output port inside diameter is about 3/32" larger than its associated tube adapter.


Therefore I needed a fairly thick tapered gasket to "soften" the transition. The stock "comb" gasket that fit between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold is about 5/32" thick and has protrusions that match my Ford prototype throttle body recessions.

Using a drum sander I removed the "comb teeth" and enlarged and tapered the inner diameter to match the two different bores.

Assemble the throttle body, gasket, and tube adapter. Install them with a 3" to 3.25" silicone hose to the 45 degree silicone elbow with the throttle body at the angle shown.

Cut to length the 1/2" i.d. hose from the passenger valve cover. Install the hose with clamp on the pre-throttle body coupler as it is installed onto the 3" to 3.25" silicone hose.

Connect the TPS connector.
Install a length of 1/2" i.d. hose to the other port on the pre-throttle body coupler.

Main intake installation (continued)

Install MAF sensor with 4" to 3" silicone reducer onto Pre-throttle body coupler. Connect MAF sensor connector.

Position main intake assembly as required.
Tighten T-bolts.
Install air filter and MAF sensor adapter.

I used an Akimoto racing cone filter and a 45 degree 3" to 4" silicone hose adapter.

Serpentine belt installation

Install blower pulley onto snout.
Install blower pulley retaining nut and torque.
Route serpentine belt bypassing alternator pulley & blower pulley.
Compress belt tensioner & install belt on middle six grooves of blower pulley.
Compress belt tensioner & install belt on alternator pulley.
Release belt tensioner.

Insure that belt is centered in grooves for all pulleys.

EVR & EGR Valve installation

When I installed the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) using the kit supplied mounting bracket there was inadequate clearance between the EVR and the fuel rail hold down.

This was resolved by relocating the fuel rail hold down one screw position forward on the intake manifold.

The Banshee kit is designed for the stock EGR valve to be mounted on the plenum.

In my case I decided the inlet spout was too close to the spark plug wire and engine wire looms. So I had a local machinist cut the spout at an angle to avoid the valve seat mounting tabs.

And then shave off sections of both pieces to get the angle I wanted, tack weld the two pieces, and then fill in the open spaces with welds.

He also silver brazed a cut off end (flared section) of the EGR tube to a standard copper 1/2" dia. 45 degree pipe fitting.
I used pieces from the stock vacuum harness and cable tie wrapped 1/8" silicone hose to couple them together as needed.

The vacuum hose looms are kept in place by insulated clamps.

Brake booster, boost gauge & evap canister hoses

Route a 3/8" i.d. hose from the plenum fitting to the power brake booster check valve.

Route a vacuum hose from the plenum to the evap emissions canister purge valve connector.

Poke a hole in the grommet that has the transmission range selector cable going thru it. Route the vacuum/boost gauge semi-rigid hose.

I fed the hose thru the poked hole in the grommet and then cable tied the hose to the windshield wiper electrical loom that routes around the power brake booster.

Intercooler pump electrical connection

I wanted the intercooler pump to be energized only when the fuel pump was energized since I spend a lot of time with the ignition on setting up datalogging files. So I connected a trailer type connector with wire to the output of the fuel pump relay (DG/YE wire).

I also wanted the ability to enable/disable the intercooler pump for IAT comparison testing so I installed an inline connector.

Remote IAC valve fabrication

At Home Depot I purchased an all metal weather tight electrical box. It has five 1/2" NPT ports (top, bottom, back & both sides. I also found a matching metal blank cover plate with gasket.

The cover plate is not flat, is rather flimsy and has the mounting holes in the center which will be covered by the IAC valve.

I asked my machinist to cut a new cover plate out of 1/8" thick aluminum. I used the gasket with precut holes as a template to drill holes in the cover plate.

I also drilled holes for mounting the IAC valve and for the outlet.

The supplied mounting tabs for the box are inadequate and the supplied screws are too long for the drilled holes in the box.

I tapped the holes with 8-32 threads using a home made tap (screws with a notch cut on each side). I ground off any protrusions that would interfere with attaching mounting brackets made from 1/8" x 1 1/2" aluminum stock. I had to relocate the top fitting to the side to gain hood clearance.

I ground out a hole in the box front for the IAC valve outlet. I purchased additional plugs for the unused 1/2" holes in the box, applied RTV for sealant and then installed them. I installed the IAC valve with gasket to the cover plate. I installed the cover plate with gasket to the box.

I cut and shaped the aluminum stock to fit the socket screws.

Remote IAC valve installation

Cut to fit the 1/2" dia. hose from the fuel vapor management valve elbow and install with hose clamp on the bottom 90 degree elbow.

Install the remote IAC valve with brackets on the two driver side M90 socket screws and fasten with hex head nuts.

Cut to fit the 1/2" i.d. hose from the post throttle body coupler and attach with hose clamp to the IAC valve box side 90 degree elbow.

Install a 90 degree rubber elbow on the IAC valve inlet port. Insert a 1/2" dia. hose barb coupler into the 90 degree rubber elbow on the IAC valve and secure with hose clamp.

Cut to fit the 1/2" i.d. hose from the pre-throttle body coupler and attach with hose clamp to the 1/2" dia. hose barb coupler at the IAC valve. Cable tie the IAC valve inlet hose to the post-throttle body coupler hose so it won't contact the blowe pulley.

Splice the IAC valve connector pigtails to the wiring harness and connect the connector.

EGR pipe fabrication & installation

Cut the stock EGR pipe above the last orifice tube just before the straight section bends.

Use a combination of 1/2" dia. copper pipe fittings, sections of the curved and straight copper pipe in the Banshee kit, and one of the 90 degree compression fittings to achieve EGR pipe routing as shown below.



Scribe alignment marks on the fittings and tubes and then silver braze them together.

Install and secure high temperature insulation.
Install the DPFE sensor with high temperature hoses to the orifice tubes.

EGR pipe installation (continued)

Install the lower section of the EGR pipe assembly but do not tighten the flange nut to the exhaust manifold.

Install the upper section with compression fitting but do not tighten the flange nut to the EGR valve.
Install the compression fitting on the lower EGR pipe section.

Reposition the pipe as required and then tighten all fittings.
Connect the DPFE connector.

Engine started

This morning I set up for a datalog, energized my Accusump just long enough for the oil pressure gauge to jump and then cranked the starter. The amibient temperature was about 35 degrees F and the engine started almost immediately but soon stumbled and died. My air/fuel ratio meter and datalog registered a value approaching 10:1 with the initial forced induction tune. I have confirmed with datalogs that the TPS and the IAT, MAF, ECT, crankshaft position and transmission sensors are functional. I observed a coolant leak which I assume is associated with the thermostat lower metal housing installation. I will continue posting in this thread for things related with the supercharger installation (i.e. boost gauge installation, hood modification, throttle linkage replacement, etc.). Other topics will be posted in the threads identified below:

Forced induction tune: Self Tuning My Supercharged 4.0L SOHC V6
Metal thermostat housing: metal thermostat housing soon available for v6 2005+ engine
Alternator upgrade: Alternator upgrade - 4G, 3G large or small case?
Rail mounted fuel pressure sensor: Electronic fuel pressure controller
Dynamometer testing: Dyno Testing & Downshift

Throttle cable replacement

The stock throttle cable is about 9 inches short of reaching my relocated throttle body so I have to replace it with a longer cable. I ordered the Lokar TC-1000MOD48 because it was advertised to be compatible with the 4.6L throttle body which I'm using.

I verified that the throttle body end works.

I have a bad back from ejection seat training and wearing a parachute for four years in a B-52 so I removed the driver side seat for more comfortable access to the accelerator. The workshop manual instructions for removing the throttle are shown below.

Even with the seat removed it was difficult to see the way to release the cable from the accelerator so I removed the bolt that attaches the accelerator to the floor. I found that there are several tabs on the round plastic retainer that must be pressed inward to release the cable.

Notice the difference in how the Lokar cable attaches to the accelerator pedal.

Next I attempted to compress the two tabs on the cable housing firewall plastic retainer. Access is very restricted and the process would probably be simplified with the use of quality pair of large bent nose pliers (which I didn't have).

I eventually released the retainer by pulling the cable housing taught with an attached bungee chord and then releasing one tab at a time prying with a brake adjuster tool.
I found that the diameter of the firewall opening is larger than the Lokar firewall fitting and adjuster nut.

Throttle cable replacement (continued)

I fixed the firewall mounting problem with two 1 1/4" o.d. fender washers with the i.d. drilled to 0.3", a 0.7" o.d. washer with 0.3" i.d. to keep the fender washers centered in the firewall hole, and a flexible fender washer for a seal.

The plastic piece on the stock cable end is not removable. The Lokar cable end easily separates from the cable. A 3/8" metal plug fits perfectly in the accelerator pedal hole. I drilled a 1/8" dia. hole thru the plug. I installed the firewall fitting, adjuster nut, metal and flexible fender washers in the firewall. I threaded the throttle cable thru the hole plug in the accelerator pedal and then thru the firewall fitting and cable housing. Then I installed the accelerator pedal and retaining bolt.

Hood modifications

My preliminary measurements indicating that even with the smaller than stock 2.7" dia. pulley and removal of the hood underside support in the vicinity of the pulley there will be inadequate clearance were incorrect.

While working on hood clearance I realized the top fitting of the remote IAC valve interferes with the hood so I removed it for rework.

I covered the blower pulley with aluminum foil and applied duct tape to the underside of the hood above the pulley area. Then I dab of white paint on the front top edge of the aluminum and carefully lowered the hood until there was contact. The white paint mark on the hood represents the center forward edge of the pulley.

I measured the width of the pulley, added 1/4" fore and aft, and marked out a rectangle to cut with my Dremel.

I only cut the reinforcement piece.
I repeated the measurement process with the paint and tape and cut out more reinforcement material until I could shut the hood with 3/8" of clearance.

The final cut is shown below.

As long as my motor mounts don't break and keep the engine from rising during torque reaction I will be OK.

Boost/vacuum gauge installation

To eliminate wires and hose from being routed across the top of the dash I removed the instrument cluster.

Note: The engine will start and run without the instrument cluster but the airbag warning light malfunction chimes will sound and the alternator voltage regulator will not maintain a charging voltage to the battery.

The dash has a soft top surface and a hard plastic lower surface. I applied duct tape to the top of the dash in the general area I wanted to mount the pod gauge. I placed the pod gauge in the desired location and then marked an outline of the base on the tape and the location for the wire/hose hole. Then I removed the cup and gauge from the base, placed the base within the outline and marked the holes for the base. Access for a drilling device is very restricted from the top because of the windshield and from below because of the shape of the dash. I was able to use a Dremel to drill a hole in the lower hard surface for the wires/hose. I used a 1/4" ratchet and various sizes of hex head screws to make and enlarge a hole (yellow arrow below) in the soft top surface.

I mounted the base using #12 x 5/8" pan head sheet metal screws.

I routed the hose up from below and forward next to the wiring bundle (red arrow below) and then in a loop and up thru the hole in the dash.

Using the 90 degree elbow (red arrow below) that came with the meter avoided a tight bend in the hose (blue arrow).

Heat shrink around the wires (green arrow above) dressed them up a little.
The wires were connected to the wire going to the dimmer controlled ashtray illumination and chassis ground.

I plan to install an electric oil pressure gauge in a similar manner on the dash above the right end of the instrument cluster (above the stock simulated pressure gauge).

Note: I advise testing the gauge vacuum and backlighting before reinstalling the instrument cluster.

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