kaufmanj67
Member
- Joined
- August 5, 2011
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Portland OR.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 91 Explorer
So decided to take a break from my tranny swap and get this up. Seams there is no how to on this (that I could find) if there is plz let me know and ill delete mine or ad a link to it. This is my first how to on this forum so be kind.
I'm going to skip the things like jack stands battery discontict and oil drain.
Although I did this while my tranny was out, there should be enuf room to do it with it in. You will have to pull your Y pipe out though. The best way to do this is to pull your fender liners out so you dont have to do everything overhead. With your liners out use some heat on the manifold flanges and the bolts will come out hella easier. I used a pencile torch and MAP gas (can get both at any hardware store) and if you have air tools 1/2" impact and a wobbel you will have no problems. If this dosent sound like your toolbox might re-think going on. Now you can take out the pan bolts.
here are a few pics of a example of a leaking pan
notice the rear main is dry if yours is leaking this is not going to fix it!
Once your Y pipe is out the next thing is to take the driver side eng. mount loose, DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT that go into the block. You want to take it loose from the bolts going into the frame side of the mount. Lost the pics for this but if your looking straight down at the mount you will see the ones im talking about. Here is a pic of where I used a jack to lift the motor from. Before you start liftin take your fan shourd loose so you dont have to bye a fan like me.
keep an eye on the clearnce from your fan clutch to the radiator it is close when your high enuf to drop the pan. Now its going to get messy LOL. The reasone why you cant slide the pan straight out is the is a oil baffel that gets caught on the pick up tube. My arms are skinny enuf that with a bit tool from snap-on and torx bit I could reach in and un-bolt it.
When it goes back in if you get the right angel it will slide on the pick up and into place (might need to put a slight down bend in it to help it). Dont leave it out this helps to keep your oil in the sump where it needs to be.
Now all you need to do is SOME clean up so your new gasket has a clean place to seal. I used my little parts washer from habor fraight for this. On the eng. side get as clean as possiable. There is a plastice clip in a grove in the rear. Be gentale taking this out, mine snapped off at the ends and I had to dig out the wedged shaped ends with a dentel pick (not FUN). I did not use RTV on any part of the new gasket instead used some stuff a buddy turned me on to a few years ago when I rebuilt my dirt bike.
you only put it on one side and then place your new gasket on dont need much.
I used the felpro gasket wich came with plastic clips to hold the pan while you start your bolts but with tight space you will only be able to use 1 or 2. Once you have all the bolts (you can reach with the motor up) started drop the motor back on the mount. Make sure to tighten pan bolts in x pattern to get it to seat even. I always torque to spec everything. New exhaust gaskets and DONE!!
I'm going to skip the things like jack stands battery discontict and oil drain.
Although I did this while my tranny was out, there should be enuf room to do it with it in. You will have to pull your Y pipe out though. The best way to do this is to pull your fender liners out so you dont have to do everything overhead. With your liners out use some heat on the manifold flanges and the bolts will come out hella easier. I used a pencile torch and MAP gas (can get both at any hardware store) and if you have air tools 1/2" impact and a wobbel you will have no problems. If this dosent sound like your toolbox might re-think going on. Now you can take out the pan bolts.
here are a few pics of a example of a leaking pan
notice the rear main is dry if yours is leaking this is not going to fix it!
Once your Y pipe is out the next thing is to take the driver side eng. mount loose, DO NOT TAKE THE BOLTS OUT that go into the block. You want to take it loose from the bolts going into the frame side of the mount. Lost the pics for this but if your looking straight down at the mount you will see the ones im talking about. Here is a pic of where I used a jack to lift the motor from. Before you start liftin take your fan shourd loose so you dont have to bye a fan like me.
keep an eye on the clearnce from your fan clutch to the radiator it is close when your high enuf to drop the pan. Now its going to get messy LOL. The reasone why you cant slide the pan straight out is the is a oil baffel that gets caught on the pick up tube. My arms are skinny enuf that with a bit tool from snap-on and torx bit I could reach in and un-bolt it.
When it goes back in if you get the right angel it will slide on the pick up and into place (might need to put a slight down bend in it to help it). Dont leave it out this helps to keep your oil in the sump where it needs to be.
Now all you need to do is SOME clean up so your new gasket has a clean place to seal. I used my little parts washer from habor fraight for this. On the eng. side get as clean as possiable. There is a plastice clip in a grove in the rear. Be gentale taking this out, mine snapped off at the ends and I had to dig out the wedged shaped ends with a dentel pick (not FUN). I did not use RTV on any part of the new gasket instead used some stuff a buddy turned me on to a few years ago when I rebuilt my dirt bike.
you only put it on one side and then place your new gasket on dont need much.
I used the felpro gasket wich came with plastic clips to hold the pan while you start your bolts but with tight space you will only be able to use 1 or 2. Once you have all the bolts (you can reach with the motor up) started drop the motor back on the mount. Make sure to tighten pan bolts in x pattern to get it to seat even. I always torque to spec everything. New exhaust gaskets and DONE!!
