How to: Prevent a Fire Hazard! | Page 3 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Prevent a Fire Hazard!

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natenkiki2004

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sanek502008

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Когда я снял вентилятор печки,там была мёртвая мышь!
 
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turboranger91

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Did this the other day after snelling smoke. . Amazing how much crap gets down in there!
 
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TomTomTom

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Thanks for the explanation, this was really helpful! Just worked on my 94 XLT today after some serious smoke Monday, pretty clogged.

One question: I didn't have the best of all tools and ended up disconnecting the two rubber hoses in between the blower and the other thing that looks like it's wrapped in aluminum foil to better reach the screws. Created quite a mess, not sure what liquid was in there...?
 
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gmanpaint

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Thanks for the explanation, this was really helpful! Just worked on my 94 XLT today after some serious smoke Monday, pretty clogged.

One question: I didn't have the best of all tools and ended up disconnecting the two rubber hoses in between the blower and the other thing that looks like it's wrapped in aluminum foil to better reach the screws. Created quite a mess, not sure what liquid was in there...?

That fluid was engine coolant. Those hoses are connected to the heater core under the dash. Make sure you top off the radiator with fresh anti-freeze.

Your going to have to Burp the system to get the air out. Trapped air can stop coolant from cycling properly, resulting in the engine over heating. Any time air is introduced into the coolant system, these engines have to be bled.
 
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TomTomTom

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Thanks for your fast reply and help!
 
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iLoveMyExploder

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wow!

this explains all the reports of unexplained fires I read about online. people were blaming ford saying all kinds of mean things.
 
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96EXXLTinCO

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That fluid was engine coolant. Those hoses are connected to the heater core under the dash. Make sure you top off the radiator with fresh anti-freeze.

Your going to have to Burp the system to get the air out. Trapped air can stop coolant from cycling properly, resulting in the engine over heating. Any time air is introduced into the coolant system, these engines have to be bled.

You would know far better than me Greg, but in my eclipse my heater would blow cold at idle but get nice and toasty with just a little RPM. Was that way until I had the coolant reverse flushed. Pretty sure that got an air bubble out and the heater has worked perfect ever since.

Just curious if that's another possible side effect of trapped air in these machines we love to hate?
 
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gmanpaint

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That can happen with low vac pressure at idle. The valve is opened by vacuum to allow the hot coolant into the core.

But yes, trapped air will do that as well.

I have witnessed an engine blow a head because of trapped air.
 
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KEN's Exploder

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Thanks for the Post Saved Again

Explorer back from the AC repair shop after not having AC for 12 years. Worked great but I smelled wood smoke when I started up the system. Read this thread a few weeks back and realized exactly what it was. I have a picture of the chard leaf stuck in the resistor coils (see links below) ready to start up a good sized fire with the two hand full of debris I removed from the housings. Thanks to the original poster and explorer forum for easily making this information available. Saved again. Now if I can just get these 157 and 158 codes to stop.

Update question: This is the second time my Explorer could have burned up in a fire. first was a stuck brake caliper many years ago. Thanks Gmanpaint for the post. But I have a question. In your first photograph in the post, I noticed the vacuum lines connected to the top of the airfilter box are connected in a different order than mine. Which way is the correct orientation for these two hoses? Perhaps the valve is oriented differently on your air filter housing cover than mine.
IMG_0532.jpg

IMG_0533.jpg

IMG_0534.jpg

IMG_0534.jpg
 
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gmanpaint

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I didn't even realize I had the vac lines backwards in that pic. My mistake. I will update it, so not to confuse anybody again. Thank you for pointing that out.

The correct order for them is the elbow boot to the left (fender) and the straight vac line to the right (engine).

The straight vac line goes to the thermostatic control valve (hidden) that controls the hot/cold air intake on the cold air inlet tube below the battery/headlight area.

The line with the elbow goes to the engine vacuum.
 
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KEN's Exploder

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Vac Lines Confusion

I didn't even realize I had the vac lines backwards in that pic. My mistake. I will update it, so not to confuse anybody again. Thank you for pointing that out.

The correct order for them is the elbow boot to the left (fender) and the straight vac line to the right (engine).

The straight vac line goes to the thermostatic control valve (hidden) that controls the hot/cold air intake on the cold air inlet tube below the battery/headlight area.

The line with the elbow goes to the engine vacuum.

So now I'm really confused, Sorry just checking. Isn't your description of how you should have the vac lines connected the same as they are in the photo at the beginning of the thread? Should I have mine connected like in your photo or reversed? Thanks for clearing it up for me. It's been a long day for me.
 
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oldmodman

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I have to do the same job on my 92.

Got the resistor pack, the new blower motor with cage, and the plug that goes into the resistors. The old plug was partially melted from the heat.

Total price for everything at Rock Auto was right at $60.00

So I looked around for other stuff I should get at the same time. I ordered the little plastic rollers for the window motor repair and the door latch plastic rollers.
A word of warning if you need the plastic covers for the locking pins. The kit of plastic sleeves are not the correct ones. Get the entire latch assembly. It's called the door lock striker kit. The plastic sleeves in the door lock striker anti rattle kit don't fit the doors.

Not to my problem. The very thin hard plastic vac lines are so old they have all cracked. These are the ones that go from the intake manifold to the vac canister(also hard black plastic), to the under side of the dash to the AC switch manifold door assembly. Does that have to come directly from Ford?
 
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massacre

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Had this problem in my green one, luckily there was no fire, just smoke. I need to do this on my current ride thanks for the reminder!
 
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