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How to: Pull trouble codes on 4WABS, very simple

dmm

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Pull trouble codes on a first Gen Explorer is very simple, only need one jumper and one test lamp or analog voltmeter, or if you no have these parts can use the ABS ligth in the dashboard.

- In the ABS test connector (engine compartment, RED CONNECTOR, not same as EEC-IV test connector) install 12V test (light or voltmeter) between pins C and E.

ABStestconnector.jpg


- With the ignition off, jumper pin E to B.
- Turn key to RUN position.
- Remove jumper between pins E and B after 5 seconds. The pulses start inmediately!! so put attention
- Count light flashes of test light or ABS warning light in the dashboard

4WABS trouble code is a two digit code, so count first pulses, stop one second and count the second pulses, like EEC-IV two digit codes


images[1].jpg
 


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BrooklynBay

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westfield

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Great write up...I can't wait to see the sources of the codes when you post them....Shops around here wan $85 just to pull the abs codes !
 




dmm

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Sorry for delay..

Manually Clearing Diagnostic Codes: All diagnostic trouble codes must be output, all concerns corrected (anti-lock light off) and vehicle driven about 40 km/h (25 mph) before diagnostic trouble codes will be erased. Note: Do not raise vehicle on hoist and accelerate to 40 km/h (25 mph) to simulate driving the vehicle. Erroneous sensor codes will be set.

Automatic Memory Erasing: A diagnostic trouble code will be automatically erased if no system concerns occur for 50 ignition cycles.

Preliminary checks point:

The front inlet valves should read 5-8 Ohms each, all other valves should read 3-6 Ohms each. Sensors should read 800-1400 Ohms across the pins, and more than 10 Ohms from the metal shell to either pin (Please revise this information!!!).

4wabs-circuit.jpg


The pump motor sensor should be 5-40 Ohms. The acceleration sensor is a group of switches which should be closed when the truck is stationary & level. When the sensor is tilted ~1" up in the rear, pins 2-3 should go open; when tilted ~1.5" up in the front, pins 1-3 should go open. This sensor is in the chassis, here:

4wabscomponent.jpg


Her you can see the connector description:

4wabs-connectors.jpg
 




dmm

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When I pull out the code read only one, code 22, intermittent open Circuit 495, inlet front left valve (number 7 in electric diagram), but with an ohmmeter I read 3-6 ohms, and in the circuit 496, outlet front left valve (number 6 in electric diagram) read infinite or open circuit, so I believe that the code 22 is fail in circuit 496, not 495, so please be careful

I read in the hidraulic unit connector
 




mlcase27

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Hello

So I tested the ABS like you show and I counted 8 flashes in the cab it has 4 wheel ABS can you tell me what the 8 flashes mean? thank you!
 




dmm

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So I tested the ABS like you show and I counted 8 flashes in the cab it has 4 wheel ABS can you tell me what the 8 flashes mean? thank you!

Hi, how you read the flashes? (8 flashes is code 44 if you read four flashes, pause, four flashes, or may be 1-7, 2-6, etc)
 




mlcase27

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Well, I had my wife watch the flashes as I messed with the jumper wire and she said she only counted 8 flashes and then it stoped and didn't flash anymore. She said also they were consistent.
 








Roadrunner777

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Codes!

1994 Ford Body/Chassis Manual, page 06-09B-17
4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brake Codes

11 - ECU Failure
16 - System OK
17 - Reference Voltage
22 - Front Left Inlet Valve
23 - Front Left Outlet Valve
24 - Front Right Inlet Valve
25 - Front Right Outlet Valve
26 - Rear Axle Inlet Valve
27 - Rear Axle Outlet Valve
31 - Front Left Sensor Electrical Failure
32 - Front Right Sensor Electrical Failure
33 - Rear Axle Sensor Electrical Failure
35 - Front Left Sensor Erratic Output
36 - Front Right Sensor Erratic Output
37 - Rear Axle Sensor Erratic Output
41 - Front Left Sensor Mismatched Output
42 - Front Right Sensor Mismatched Output
43 - Rear Axle Mismatched Output
55 - Front Left Sensor Output Dropout
56 - Front Right Sensor Output Dropout
57 - Rear Axle Output Dropout
63 - Pump Motor
65 - G Switch
67 - Pump Motor
75 - Front Left Sensor Erratic Output
76 - Front Right Sensor Erratic Output
77 - Rear Axle Sensor Erratic Output
(no code = ECU not initializing)
 




tjsxplodr

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OOOH this is JUST what I need to diagnose my ABS light that's on in my 'new' explorer. Thanks for this! Does anyone have any idea how hard it is to replace sensors etc on the ABS system?
 




tjsxplodr

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Where exactly is the ABS test connector in the engine compartment?????
 




tjsxplodr

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Nevermind i found it, but I tried to jump it, and nothing happened on the instrument cluster....what am I doing wrong? I used the jumper from c to e then put it from e to b like it says to, but nothing......
 




yeah61794

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Hi all quick question regarding this test, I was told some codes go away when the engine is turned off, how do you retrieve them while the engine is running?

In regards to your question tjsxplodr, you jumper e to b, turn the vehicle into the run position (don't start it) wait five seconds and then break the connection of the jumper. The codes will be output immediately via the ABS light on the dash, or you could have hooked up a test light or analog voltmeter on pins e to c and counted the flashes on that too. Either method works and is much easier done with two people.
 




tjsxplodr

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I didn't do the test light to the pins, I thought I could see the abs light blinking, but mine wont' blink. I might try to hook up my test light and see if i can figure out the lights.
 




sqhurt

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I tested mine and came up with 32,35,36,75,76... what would cause this? Just need new abs sensors? Thanks in advance for any help
 




tjsxplodr

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My abs ecm was not hooked up properly....maybe the reason i cant get the test light to work...how do i correctly put a test light on c to e?
 




tjsxplodr

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Any advice......this jumper test doesn't seem to be working correctly. I don't get any flashes when I remove the jumper from e to b.....
 




George W

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Will this test work on 2002 Ranger 4X4 with 4 wheel ABS.. I have a slow speed ABS issue when slowing to a stop and hit about 5 MPH My ABS kicks in the peddle ratchets down and I apply more brake to get to a stop.. ABS feels like it's working as it should except comes in play at low speed for no reason dry clean paved roads bellow 5 MPH or so.. Tires all the same size and aired to 29psi , wear is even.. I just installed new front rotors and new brake pads with slides and anti rattle kit.. stil have same issue.. Bled brakes all the way around to flush the system used 1qt of Dot 3 fluid.. still same issue.. I was talking to a guy in the parts store.. said he went threw the same thing last week and it was a front ABS sensor..

Is there a way I can tell if it's the left or right front sensor? It's a 4X4 and is a real pain to install a new one just to swap it out in the other side if I didn't guess right the first time.. Cold weather is setting in and I need to do this ASAP as I'm working outside.. Thanks for your help! I have a Ford work shop manual.. I don't have a brake out box or ABS scan tool... I have a volt metter.. George
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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tjsxplodr

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I managed to get the code off my ABS system....63 which is pump motor.....where is it located?
 




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