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How To: Rear Swaybar Quick Disconnects Under $20

98xploder

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WHAT YOU NEED:

TOOLS:
hacksaw
wd-40 ( for seized bolts)
c clamp
18mm wrench or ratchet (i used breaker bar)
vise grips
bench vise


23-05-08_2309.jpg


here is the supply list. in case you cant read the reciept, i will list the parts i bought.


here is a list of what i needed to buy
1.hacksaw (it was $4.96, plus i didnt want to try using the sawz all to cut thru the metal pipe)
2. 7/16" SAE flat washers Qty=4 (2 per pack) $4.40 for all four packs
3. hitch pin 1/8x2 (2 of these, to go thru the clevis pin and hold the swaybar together) $1.36
4. 3/8"x3" black pipe QTY=1 (part 28023) (basically a 3" long pipe threaded on both ends) $1.38
5. 7/16"x2" clevis pin adjustable QTY=2 $5.64 for both

overall total for the build including buying the saw = $19.03

below is a picture of the hardware to do one side of the sway bar disconnects. (i didnt think to take pics before getting the other side together)

23-05-08_2339.jpg


first, you need to get the old swaybar bolts out. its a pain, and you need vice grips on the bolt head, as it is just circular and you cannot get a wrench on it. you clamp the vice grips on the outside of the bolt on the head, and you get your 18mm wrench or ratchet to bust those suckers free. you then need to hammer the bolt out of the bushing on the swaybar link, it helps if you have a prybar to hold tension on the link as you hammer the bolt out to stabilize it, but i didnt find it necessary, if you get lucky like i did, your bushing came free from the bolt on the way out. if this is not the case, you can carefully remove the bushing from the bolt, but i would probably just replace the bushing if this was the case.

you then turn to your 3/8"x3" pipe you bought. cut it in half, then cut the threads off the ends. i used my bench vice and a hacksaw to do this part
once you get that done, take your c clamp and a little lube, and get your cut pipe to slide inside your bushing. it will act as a spacer in there.

after you get that part done, you get your washers and drop a couple down on the clevis pin, then slide it thru the bushing on the link, and then thru the swaybar.

throw a couple more washers on the outside, then slide your hitch pin into place to hold everything secure.

repeat these steps to the other side and youll be ready to rock in no time!

now for the before and after pics.

BEFORE:
23-05-08_2204.jpg


AFTER:
23-05-08_2203-1.jpg


hopefully if i get another day off of work, i will devise a plan to tackle the front sway bar links. i think i know how that one will work too, but only time will tell. by the way guys, i will post more pics of the whole process with the swaybar stuff apart tomorrow. it was beginning to get too dark to take good pics. at any rate, i hope this helps you guys out. ;)
 


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Turdle

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Thanks for taking to time to get picdtures and write this up
I'm going to put it in the how to threads-

:thumbsup:
 








toypaseo

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Should this stuff be Grade 8 or something :dunno:
 




MountaineerGreen

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Nah- I'm using similar pins on mine, only with little springs to stop any chance of rattles, no issues whatsoever.

Matter of fact, in the front, I am using Grade 2 3/8" all threaded rod, no problems for almost two years now.
 




98xploder

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you got disconnects in the front? any chance of some pics?
 








CHRISXPLOR

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please tell me what is the benifit of removing the sway bar?
 




yellowford

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It allows for much more flex
 




CHRISXPLOR

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isnt that dangerous for just city or highway driving???
 




Spdrcer34

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There are a LOT of cars and trucks with no rear sway bar....

Removing the Front Sway Bar is where you get more issues with driveability, and safety on the roads.

I know there are guys that will say they have been driving for a number of years/months with no issues....there is a HUGE difference in the way a vehicle acts with a properly set-up sway bar vs. No sway bar. If you know how to drive a car with no front sway bar, more power to you!

Ryan
 




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Should you not just do this to the top mount so you can take the whole thing out? What about the front, same deal? Should you even do this to the front? That is where I need a lot more flex but I want it to perform on road as well. This sounds like a great idea!
 








youlostme21

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Should you not just do this to the top mount so you can take the whole thing out? What about the front, same deal? Should you even do this to the front? That is where I need a lot more flex but I want it to perform on road as well. This sounds like a great idea!

The whole idea of doing this is so you can disconnect and reconnect the sway bar between wheeling and regular driving. And there is no reason to remove the whole link in the rear cause the worst thing that will happen is it'll clunk a little, which if your off-roading a lot of things are going be clunking anyways haha
 




joesilvia92

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Sorry to bring back such an old thread but i was wondering if i could just use regular hitch pins instead of the clevis pin. I mean the pin that connects the hitch to the reciever. Thanks.
 




gmanpaint

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Sorry to bring back such an old thread but i was wondering if i could just use regular hitch pins instead of the clevis pin. I mean the pin that connects the hitch to the reciever. Thanks.
Snug = good. Slack = bad.

I would say NO, to the hitch pin in this application. Just my O2.

The right size muti hole clevis pin is 7/16" x 2.5". This size will fit directly in your bushings with no metal tube bushing added.

Depending on which hitch you use dictates what size the pin will be. A 2" receiver takes a 5/8" hitch pin, that will not fit inside the sway bar arms. Even if a smaller hitch pin is used there will be a lot of slack from elbow to pin. (slack)

A clevis pin with multiple holes in it is an advantage. Length is changed with number of washers, size of bushings used, with or without a spring. It fits snug against the bushings with a washer on both sides of bushing. (snug)
 




joesilvia92

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Snug = good. Slack = bad.
Thanks for the quick reply. Do you know where i can pick up these clevis pins?
 




Glen4X4

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Tractor Supply has them if you have one near you. A normal hardware store may have them also.
 




2TimingTom

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Bumping an old thread....

Reconnecting the sway bar- easy? Do you need to slightly jack one side or have someone push down on the bumper to get the end links to go through the hole in the end of he sway bar? Just my experience with sway bars is that they can be fussy like that sometimes.
 


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corkey

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quick and easy disconnect, and bump for the new guys
 




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