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How to: Rebuilding a Borg Warner 4404

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
On the TC I rebuilt, the input shaft was slightly bent, which had messed up a bearing. So it got a new input shaft and bearing, plus a regular rebuild kit, new chain and VC. Been great ever since.

It had loud clunks from the chain being stretched. Possibly it was attempting to jump teeth, which may have been why the shaft was bent.
 



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Thanks guys, I'll try to order some parts today, and maybe next week I can remove my Mercury's TC. It'll take me a few days I'm sure to rebuild that and have a day off to swap it into my Explorer. I need to do it soon too, driving this as 2WD is not good. It spins the back tires too easily, I forgot that many times Saturday when I left mailboxes. It also needs the rear LS rebuilt, another project for later. I love the AWD, it's forgiving with low traction.
 






This sideways bending ratchet will save you a ton of time removing the TC from the transmission. I found the easiest way to get to the upper right bolt was using this ratchet from over the top, from the left side. 3/8 in. Drive Indexable Head Ratchet

Here's the 1/2" driver version 1/2 in. Drive Indexable Head Ratchet

They're very well made and have come in handy many times by being able to bend in the middle to get around obstacles and/or allow more swing than a straight ratchet.
 






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Here's another bearing. You can also see the viscous coupler (the largest piece). I "cheated" and used a socket to push the shaft out of the bearing.


This is the step I am now stuck on. I am curious to know how exactly you pushed the shaft out of the large bearing? I see the 2 pieces of wood underneath the VC. Did you just use a hammer to tap on the socket to push the shaft out? Is it possible that this wrecked the bearing? Also I read that after assembly you had almost no play in the VC and gear versus the almost 3/16" of play that it had from the factory. I also noticed this play and I assume its important to allow the chain to line the gears up while in motion. I wonder if this was causing the sound you reported hearing after reassembling everything and test driving? I plan on reassembling with the same amount of play it had before taking it apart. I am just worried that pressing the bearing off the shaft in this manner and reassembling by tapping on the inner race (so I don't put any side pressure on the balls or outer race.) may still damage the bearing. Do you know if other guys have used a hydraulic press or some type of 3 jaw puller to remove this bearing?

Thanks!
 






This is the step I am now stuck on. I am curious to know how exactly you pushed the shaft out of the large bearing? I see the 2 pieces of wood underneath the VC. Did you just use a hammer to tap on the socket to push the shaft out? Is it possible that this wrecked the bearing? Also I read that after assembly you had almost no play in the VC and gear versus the almost 3/16" of play that it had from the factory. I also noticed this play and I assume its important to allow the chain to line the gears up while in motion. I wonder if this was causing the sound you reported hearing after reassembling everything and test driving? I plan on reassembling with the same amount of play it had before taking it apart. I am just worried that pressing the bearing off the shaft in this manner and reassembling by tapping on the inner race (so I don't put any side pressure on the balls or outer race.) may still damage the bearing. Do you know if other guys have used a hydraulic press or some type of 3 jaw puller to remove this bearing?

Thanks!
I put a socket on the shaft that I gave some love taps to. That pushed the shaft out of the bearing, gear, and VC. It wasn't a super tight fit, if I remember correctly.
the change in play could have been a placebo affect.

As for the noises I got after initial rebuild, that was because I screwed up with a bearing and it blew up.
 


















after I went through all the trouble to rebuild the transfer case to TRY to eliminate a bearing or gear howling noise... come to find out it was my rear differential pinion and case bearings.
 






i bought a donor transfer case to help with my rebuild, so now i had two versions of this case, the case bolts come in two flavors, the best version is the where the case bolts are a combo hex head and torx drive, the worst case is the torx head alone, they all nearly stripped or sheared in half because some idiot engineer at borg warner decided to use a special size torx head called a T40P bit, this means its a plus size of which no auto parts store stocks. where the "P" stands for "plus" size. be warned and find the right torx bit online somewhere.
 






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