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How to refill a transmission [serious but stupid question]?

EricB123

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August 28, 2017
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Mazda B4000
I've found filling the 5R55E which has a long dipstick tube (Mazda) to be really difficult. This is how I do it:
  1. Let it sit overnight
  2. Check the cold level for reference and to make sure it's not in the cross hatched area on the dip stick
  3. Run engine in idle until at temperature
  4. Recheck level (it seems to always go down -- not up as implied in the books due to expansion)
  5. Run transmission through gears
  6. Recheck level (usually no noticeable change)
  7. Add some oil but keep it below the second hole on the dipstick and out of the crosshatch area (I never add more than 1 qt at a time, usually 1/2 qt.)
  8. Repeat if necessary
This doesn't seem to work. When I repeat it at cold the next day, the level is higher than it should be making reading the hot temperature difficult because the tube seems to be coated in oil that often messes up the readings. Also it seems like the transmission wants to take more oil than specified which I carefully checked after a full empty, flush and empty torque converter.

It seems like this should be simple, but it seems to always be problematic of showing too much oil or too little.

Is idling the engine enough to see thermal expansion expected in the transmission or should I also drive it? By the way, after driving the dipstick tube seems to be so lined with oil that getting a good reading is hard.
 



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I've read that and other stuff on the internet and that's pretty much what I've been doing however it doesn't work well. It's above 50F so it seems driving isn't really required. I'm looking for a bit more insight into how to measure it when the oil dipstick tube seems to always effect the readings because it seems to fill up with oil on the sides and obscures the level until it's settled again after an hour or so.
 






I wouldn't worry about what the cold level is on a engine that is not running in your case, you are just trying to make sure its at the correct level right? Just worry about step number 6 of your list, as long as the fluid level is correct on the stick at operating temp with the engine running in park on level ground your good. Always trust the lowest fluid level you see on the stick too, sometimes the levels can be different from one side to the other.

I believe what your noticing with the cold fluid level (engine off) the next day is because the converter is slowly draining back through the pump and back into the pan and causing the level to rise by a quart or more and its confusing you. As soon as the engine starts fluid fills the converter and levels stabilize. This is called converter drainback and its common for that to happen, sometimes it can be drain enough to cause delays into either gear 1st thing after start up. So if you are not having that issue I wouldn't worry about it at this time.
 






Also these dipsticks can be a real PITA to read, they will scrape the tube on their way to the pan and pickup some of the fluid that you just poured in. A good trick is to hold the dipstick and do not let it twist as it goes down the tube, then pull it out straight and have a look. You may notice that on one side of the white marker will be coated in the pink stuff (the drag marks) while the other side is still dry or shows the actual fluid level..........the best way to do this is hold the dipstick so you can read the words, keep it in that position the whole time. You will see what I am talking about, all a4ld, 4r, 5r55eand 4r70w explorer/ranger autos are this way
 






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