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How to remove rear wheel hub

Fordman999

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July 5, 2015
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Ford Explorer XLT
Hello everyone so I have to replace my rear wheel hub on my 2003 Ford Explorer XLT since one of the threads broke and I am missing now a nut but I guess 4 are good enough for the moment. I went to a tire store and they did not tighten the nuts sufficiently so one of the sheared off. Anyway my question is is there some sort of hub puller that will remove the entire hub bearing assembly off I know how to do everything except pull the entire hub bearing off. I saw a video where a mechanic uses some sort of press machine to remove it which I do not have. It's going to be me doing it so that machine I do not have. Is there any other way??
 



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Thanks swshawaii I just need the hub removed not the bearing. Good video of eric the car guy.
 






Hey @Fordman999,

To remove the hub, I recommend getting a slide hammer for a clean approach. When I replaced mine, I actually didn't have a slide hammer and actually separated the hub from the bearing by beating it out from the backside of the knuckle with a large socket and hammer.
 






Why not just replace the stud?
 






Why not just replace the stud?

Or just keep driving it with 4? There is a slide-hammer puller designed expressly for removing axleshafts from solid axle carriers. It has 4 slots appropriately placed to work on most any bolt circle, 4 or 5 pattern, not too costly to buy, that's what I used to remove my rear hubs. Probably the roughest part of the job is getting the axle nut off.

However, replacing the bearing itself is not easy. Some claim to have succeeded using big hammers. Don't even think about it. I used big 3/4-inch drive sockets as bushings to do the pressing appropriately, but I have a 20-ton press. imp
 






Why not just replace the stud?
You're right I bought a stud but damn the current studs look rusted on and there doesnt seem to be enough room to remove or insert the new stud. I removed the rotor and saw the space between the hub and back plate is tight. Any suggestions?
 






Or just keep driving it with 4? There is a slide-hammer puller designed expressly for removing axleshafts from solid axle carriers. It has 4 slots appropriately placed to work on most any bolt circle, 4 or 5 pattern, not too costly to buy, that's what I used to remove my rear hubs. Probably the roughest part of the job is getting the axle nut off.

However, replacing the bearing itself is not easy. Some claim to have succeeded using big hammers. Don't even think about it. I used big 3/4-inch drive sockets as bushings to do the pressing appropriately, but I have a 20-ton press. imp
Does the new hub just slide on easily or does it have to be pressed onto the bearing?
 






Does the new hub just slide on easily or does it have to be pressed onto the bearing?

Let's backtrack. The problem is removal of a broken wheel stud, correct? The sheet metal splash shield has a "knockout" hole provided to allow access for removal or replacement of one stud at a time. Similar to the knockout on a metal electrical box. Knock the piece out, rotate the axle until the "window" allows the stud to be driven out. The new stud may be pulled into place in the hub using a lugnut with a stack of flat washers under it. imp
 






Let's backtrack. The problem is removal of a broken wheel stud, correct? The sheet metal splash shield has a "knockout" hole provided to allow access for removal or replacement of one stud at a time. Similar to the knockout on a metal electrical box. Knock the piece out, rotate the axle until the "window" allows the stud to be driven out. The new stud may be pulled into place in the hub using a lugnut with a stack of flat washers under it. imp
Thanks I will do that
 






Let's backtrack. The problem is removal of a broken wheel stud, correct? The sheet metal splash shield has a "knockout" hole provided to allow access for removal or replacement of one stud at a time. Similar to the knockout on a metal electrical box. Knock the piece out, rotate the axle until the "window" allows the stud to be driven out. The new stud may be pulled into place in the hub using a lugnut with a stack of flat washers under it. imp
Thanks imp that was the solution so glad to be on this forum saves me a lot of time and troube.
 






Thanks imp that was the solution so glad to be on this forum saves me a lot of time and troube.

I thank you, too. One feels good when someone benefits from one's help. Sometimes, ya just never hear about it. imp
 






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