How to remove rear wiper arm? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to remove rear wiper arm?

croll326

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer Sport
Take of the nut but the arm won't budge. Almost like its galded on the stud. Liquid wrench did nothing. Help.
 



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Looking at Fordparts.com it looks like all there is is a wiper arm cover, a nut ($9.64) and a glass to wiper arm seal. The latter doesn't have to be removed unless you are replacing the motor. If the setup is the same as I have on my MKT, it looks like that rather expensive nut is the only thing you would have to remove once you have flipped the cover up. I'm guessing the arm itself is grooved and that is what might be what is making it difficult. After taking this picture, I noticed an arrow under the cover pointing toward the bolt area (orange spot). Not sure if that has anything to do with removing it. Haven't investigated any further.

Peter
 

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You need a puller to remove it. There is a slight taper to the shaft and as the nut is tightened it pushes it tighter on the shaft.
 






Noticed the taper. It's basically jammed on the threaded stud. Need to find a puller.
 






Any idea where to get the tool or what else can be used?
 






You usually can rent a puller from local auto parts store--O'Reiily or Auto Zone.
 






Loosen the nut to protect the threads. Place cardboard under the prying surface, wedge a lever under the wiper arm, and tap the nut with a hammer. Lightly coat the tapered spline with anti seize before replacing. Easily removed a Ford Focus front arm this way.

 






Got it. Man was it corroded on.
 






① Kroil from Kano Industries is hands down the best penatrant on the market. I have used it in a steam plant on everything from boiler valves, steam traps, and chemical lines. I use it in the Autoglass shop often to remove stubborn WW Arms. BTW Trailblazer arms are the worst.

☐ Soak the Nut first, then using a socket one size smaller (10mm nut, use 9mm socket) tap it with a hammer. Do not beat it, you are merely allowing the micro cracks to open. Kroil advertises that it will creep into a crack a millionth of an inch wide. Remove the nut and set it aside.​

☐ Soak the stem and socket of the WW Arm. Step away for a minute or two. Using a Rubber Mallet or a block of wood sharply rap the joint (hinged portion). When we do this the windshield is normally cracked. If your glass is good, then don't do this. Instead tap the side of the fitted portion.​

☐ Now, you should be able to flex the wiper arm at the hinge and it should come off. If it doesn't (Trailblazers, ugh) then you will need to put a puller on it.​

☐ Coat the shaft/spindle with antiseize compound. Place the nut on the shaft/spindle and thread it down far enough to make it flush with the top. Place the puller on it and hook the arms under the wiper arm. Tighten the adjustment bolt half a turn after the bolt makes contact with the nut. Every two minutes, tighten another half turn. The trick here is continuous pressure. It will come off, I promise.​

I know these instructions are conservative to the point of almost being sissyfied. That is because we remove and reinstall a couple of hundred arms a week at the shop. If we get too agressive and damage one we have to buy it. That gets old quick, fast, and in a hurry.

Hope this helps someone.

If any of this is unclear let me know and I will revise.
 






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