How to: replace A/C Compressor on '96 5.0 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: replace A/C Compressor on '96 5.0

Great write up. Thanks.
My compressor died and during diagnosis, the system became contaminated by the wrong oil (don't ask how!).

So, two questions: 1) I can't flush the system--don't have the stuff to do it. When should I take it to a shop to flush it? Before or after installing the new compressor?

2) For some of us mechanically-challenged folks, does anyone have an exact parts list of what should be replaced when the compressor is changed? I get the compressor, O-rings, orifice tube. What else? Dryer? Condenser?

thanks!
 



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Flush Now

Go now and flush the system to get all the chunks out before replacing the compressor. Some shops will not spend too much time trying to clean the condensor and will want to replace it instead. There should not be very much junk in the rest of the system, what you are trying to do at this point is remove the burnt oil residue and metal particals out of the lines. Even then an in-line filter is a good idea for your problem.
 






Thanks. So, where does the filter get installed in the system?
 






Anywhere in line on the low pressure side of the system that is convenient.
 






Thanks, this post made the job very easy indeed.
 






My '96 5.0 AWD is on its third compressor. The first died and we had it replaced. The second one failed a few years later. I found this unacceptable. I was also far more competent and confident in dealing with cars by this time so I tackled the job myself. The second compressor failed due to black death. The first one probably failed for this reason as well, contaminated the system, and that eventually led to failure of the second compressor. Here is a good description of black death.
http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/15/

Since some of you won't read the link, I'll post key points.

1. Black death contaminates the entire system with the exception of the evaporator.
2. Flushing failed to remove the contaminants and Ford's solution was a "firewall forward" replacement of all components with the exception of the evaporator. Because so many of these failures happened under warranty, Ford reduced the prices for the necessary parts to fully repair the problem.
3. Explorers use serpentine flow condensers. It isn't really possible to fully flush them.

In 2008 when the compressor failed, I decided to do the repair myself. Because mine looks like something from a Mad Max flick I decided to repair the problem completely, with one caveat. I used the absolute least expensive, brand new parts I could find. I purchased them from a combination of local parts stores, and ebay. I also replaced the evaporator even though it wasn't required. I'll list the parts I replaced and some other observations I made.

1. Compressor, both hose assemblies, condenser, evaporator, accumulator, high side switch, low side switch, all o-rings.

2. Almost every part was made in China. Some people might object, but when a brand new Motorcraft compressor costs 75% more than one made in China, and it's going on an old beat up vehicle, money is a consideration.

3. Parts stores seem to do a lot of "customary price point" pricing. What that means is that certain parts have a price that is determined not by actual cost, but by what people will pay. For example, an evaporator at Advance Auto Parts will typically run about $110 regardless of year, make, or model, because that's what people will pay. Evaporators and condensers are very high profit items for parts stores. It is not uncommon to find a new evaporator on ebay for less than half of what the retail store charges. You can usually save about 40% on condensers through ebay. One thing to remember is to check the shipping cost. Some sellers have very low prices but charge a small fortune for shipping which eats up any real savings. It pays to take your time and explore as many options as you can. Compressors can be 30-40% less on ebay. Make sure the ad specifies new or rebuilt.

4. Buy your accumulator locally. Most times, the shipping will eat up any savings if you do ebay. Accumulators aren't flushable or serviceable in any way. If your system leaks down completely, the accumulator should be replaced. It is considered a service part for a reason.

5. The orifice tube is CHEAP. It should be replaced any time the system is opened. I've replaced several of them on different vehicles over the years and I've never broken one.

6. Follow the instructions on the compressor with regard to oil. Most come with oil in them. They usually specify the amount. I think they usually come with about 8ozs, and the Explore uses about 10. To add the extra 2 ozs, I bought a small can that contains about 2ozs of oil and 2ozs of refrigerant. I put it when I start to charge it.

7. Even though most components come with o rings, they sometimes don't come with the best ones (in terms of fit.) You should pick up an o ring assortment while out for parts.

If I remember anything else, I'll post it. I installed this system 8/08. I haven't had any leaks or issues with it.
 






Trying to trouble shoot my a/c problem, it was working fine the other day, tryed to use it 2 days later and was barely getting cool, opened the hood and check the compressor was cycling every 3 to 5 seconds , has never cycled that much , check the system, fully charged , turned it off , tryed to turn the a/c clutch and it was very hard to turn , after a few minutes it would turn easier , the compressor is not staying engaged enought to move the freon .

any ideas ?
 






Thanks! That gave me good guide lines in doing mine.

Most used tools were 5/16, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, sockets and 1/4 and 3/8 drive 7/8 combo and large adjustable for the accumulator tube, pair of channel locks for the hose clamps.

The quick connect coupling was a big PIA as I had the plastic tools. The plastic tools are crap and do not work. This is one tool where it pays to buy the best metal tool. I had to file a bevel on the plastic tool to make it work.

I drained 1 oz of oil from the old compressor and 2 oz from the accumulator.
According to some procedures rule of thumb is to measure and add back the same amount plus 2 oz. if not doing a flush. The new compressor had 1oz of assembly oil that the instructions said to do not remove.

I replaced the compressor and orifice tube and reinstalled the old accumulator but left the plugs disconnected so that I can drive the vehicle as it'd going to be 3 days before I can to a vac and charge Since, the system needs to be charged asap after a new accumulator is installed.

This all could have been done in one day, if it wasn't for wasting 1/2 day on the quick connects.
 






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