AeroRamer
Active Member
- Joined
- July 17, 2008
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Jax, FL
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '00 Limited
The following write up is for informational purposes only. This is just an account of what I did while troubleshooting an overheating anomaly (see thread here) on my 2000 Explorer Limited. As part of my T/S I removed the thermostat and took some notes and pictures along the way. I was not sure how involved this was going to be but it end up been very straightforward. It took me about 1.5 hours total to do this and another 15 minutes or so to test drive the Ex. Here is what I did:
Please note that this write up is for the removal and replacement of the thermostat for a 4.0L SOHC. The write up for the 4.0L OVH was done by 'Charlie' and can be found here.
Tools needed:
-Ratchet
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-9/32" socket (the 7mm was a bit smaller and the 8mm to big)
-Pliers
-Paper towels or rag
-Small brush to scrape off some gunk and debris
First off, when I checked the repair manual, it said to drain the coolant out of the car. I did not have to do that. Since the thermostat sat on top of the block I thought that if there was some coolant it would be the coolant inside the upper hose, and that it would be minimal. So, I decided to go on very carefully without draining the coolant.
With the engine cool, using a ratchet and a 9/32" socket, I removed the four screws holding the plastic engine cover in place.
Next, using an 8mm socket, I loosened the clamp holding the air filter duct enough to be able to slide it off the intake body. After removing the electrical connector, and the two hoses that connected to it I removed the air filter duct from the Ex.
Using a 10mm socket I removed the top wire from the alternator (not sure if that is the ground or current and I did not check). I did this to get better access to the thermostat housing and the upper hose clamp. I also found it easier to work when I removed the electrical connector from the intake body.
Using a pair of pliers, I moved the clamp holding the upper hose to the thermostat housing out of the way. To move the hose out of the way I removed the 8mm screw that hold the hard plastic section of the hose to the engine block.
With everything out of the way there is now enough area to remove the three (3) 8mm screws that secure the thermostat housing. Note that there are only three screws and not four like I thought. Removing the housing cover give you direct access to the thermostat. To remove it just pull on it. I think I've read t that it is a good idea to notice the orientation of the thermostat and to install the new one in the same position. I am not sure about that but I did it anyway.
Before installing the new thermostat and gasket, using a couple of paper towels and a small brush, I cleaned both sides of the housing to remove gunk and loose debris. From the pic below you can see the discoloration from coolant that may have leaked from the hose or the housing.
Once the new thermostat and gasket was in place I re-installed everything in reverse order. Bleed (burp) the air out off the system and fill with coolant/water as needed.
Below is a pic of the old thermostat (left) and the new one (right). After a quick visual inspection I could not tell if he old thermostat was bad. One difference between both thermostats was the temp rating stamped on them. The old one (DFT) was rated to 197/223 degrees Fahrenheit versus 190/??? degrees for the new one (Stant, P/N 13649).
Please note that this write up is for the removal and replacement of the thermostat for a 4.0L SOHC. The write up for the 4.0L OVH was done by 'Charlie' and can be found here.
Tools needed:
-Ratchet
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-9/32" socket (the 7mm was a bit smaller and the 8mm to big)
-Pliers
-Paper towels or rag
-Small brush to scrape off some gunk and debris
First off, when I checked the repair manual, it said to drain the coolant out of the car. I did not have to do that. Since the thermostat sat on top of the block I thought that if there was some coolant it would be the coolant inside the upper hose, and that it would be minimal. So, I decided to go on very carefully without draining the coolant.
With the engine cool, using a ratchet and a 9/32" socket, I removed the four screws holding the plastic engine cover in place.
Next, using an 8mm socket, I loosened the clamp holding the air filter duct enough to be able to slide it off the intake body. After removing the electrical connector, and the two hoses that connected to it I removed the air filter duct from the Ex.
Using a 10mm socket I removed the top wire from the alternator (not sure if that is the ground or current and I did not check). I did this to get better access to the thermostat housing and the upper hose clamp. I also found it easier to work when I removed the electrical connector from the intake body.
Using a pair of pliers, I moved the clamp holding the upper hose to the thermostat housing out of the way. To move the hose out of the way I removed the 8mm screw that hold the hard plastic section of the hose to the engine block.
With everything out of the way there is now enough area to remove the three (3) 8mm screws that secure the thermostat housing. Note that there are only three screws and not four like I thought. Removing the housing cover give you direct access to the thermostat. To remove it just pull on it. I think I've read t that it is a good idea to notice the orientation of the thermostat and to install the new one in the same position. I am not sure about that but I did it anyway.
Before installing the new thermostat and gasket, using a couple of paper towels and a small brush, I cleaned both sides of the housing to remove gunk and loose debris. From the pic below you can see the discoloration from coolant that may have leaked from the hose or the housing.
Once the new thermostat and gasket was in place I re-installed everything in reverse order. Bleed (burp) the air out off the system and fill with coolant/water as needed.
Below is a pic of the old thermostat (left) and the new one (right). After a quick visual inspection I could not tell if he old thermostat was bad. One difference between both thermostats was the temp rating stamped on them. The old one (DFT) was rated to 197/223 degrees Fahrenheit versus 190/??? degrees for the new one (Stant, P/N 13649).
