sne43
Member
- Joined
- April 15, 2009
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Minnesota
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '97 XLT, 4.0 6 Cyl., SOHC
First of all, I am not a mechanic. I have never done a tune up prior to this, but learned a lot doing the tune up, so thought I would write this up to help some others. There may be other tips and tricks that others can add. I am writing this, because I could not find a specific and comprehensive description of the process on the forum. It took me a lot of trial and error and reading some tips on this forum to get it done. Therefore, I spent more time to get it done than hopefully you will after reading this thread. You will need to allocate a solid 3 hours to the task if you are an amateur like me. It is a very doable job.
Changing spark plugs and wires should be an easy process, but in the ’97 Ford Ex, XLT it is not. Whoever designed the vehicle, did not design it with maintenance in mind. Perhaps this is a marketing ploy to get more people into the dealership for service?
Here is what you will need to get the job done:
•Spark plugs x 6 – I used “Platinum” Plugs which were about $4 each. Some on this forum suggest using “Double Platinum” or “Platinum Plus”, which are about $7 each. Your choice, but the factory uses the ones I did. I purchased Autolite plugs because it was easy to get. I have read they are crap. Buy them “pre-gapped” at .054” which meets the spec for the engine.
•Spark Plug Wires x 6 – Mine were about $65 for a set that are made to match the length of the OE Set of wires. Can get them at any auto parts store (cheaper or more expensive available). Only necessary if you cannot get the “Boots” off of the spark plug or want to change them as a part of the tune up. I changed mine because they were the original wires with 165K mile on them.
•5/8” Deep Socket and Socket Wrench. You will have to have extensions and hinged connectors to help with the contortions you will have to go through to get the plugs off.
•Breaker Bar
•Utility Knife
•“Exacto” Knife
•Locking pliers
•Spark Plug Gaping tool to confirm that the gap is correct on the spark plug
•Dielectric Grease (Silicone grease)
•Anti-seize “grease” to put on the threads
Getting Ready:
•Put Anti-seize on all the spark plug threads and fill all the wire boots with Dielectric Grease. Make sure you get the grease deep in the boot so it is on the metal part that connects to the spark plug. Don’t grease the other end. Line them up by length.
•Remove the passenger side front tire and get some room to work: Loosen the lug nuts on the tire and then jack the passenger side, front corner of the car up, per the instructions in your owner’s manual. You want the tire to drop down giving you access to the wheel well on that side. Place a jack stand under the frame for safety. Remove the tire from the car.
•Remove the mud guard from the inside of the wheel well. It is that rubber piece with plastic push tabs holding it on. If you break a tab, don’t worry, they are cheap and readily available at an auto parts store or at the Ford dealer. Just pull them out.
•You’re ready.
Removing the tire on the passenger side seems strange to me, but it is the only practical way to get to the plugs. Getting at this side from above is nearly impossible. There is too much stuff in the way and going through the wheel well makes it easier with more direct access and visualization.
Procedure:
•NOTE: PULL ONE WIRE AND PLUG AT A TIME! Don’t make the mistake of removing all of the wires and plugs and then trying to figure out how to put them back in the right spot.
•I started with the hardest first. It is the one in the back of the engine on the passenger side. I figured that if I got this one done the others would seem easy. Just my preference. Then removed the remainder on the passenger side back to front. Last, I did the driver’s side. It is easily accessed from above and does not require the tire removal and goes quickly.
•First: Pull the boot off of the plug. If yours are like mine, they will not budge. Only two of the six came off with the prescribed twist and pull method. The plugs had 100K miles on them and the wires were original (165K miles). I tried pulling with the special tools they sell for this purpose, but none gave me enough leverage in the small confined spaces of this engine compartment. Since I had the new wires, I settled on cutting the boot. To do this, you need a utility knife with a new blade and it helps to have an Exacto-knife. Reaching up with the knife, engage the knife at the base of the boot and press firmly. Pull the knife towards you, cutting along the length of the boot up toward the wire. This took only one hand. You can feel the metal connector inside the boot as you cut if doing it properly. The Exacto-knife gave me a little deeper access to the base of the boot because it is smaller, but less leverage. Once cut, put locking pliers on the rubber boot and pull. The boot should come off much easier. I had two of the four almost fall off using this technique.
•Remove the spark plug. It is easier if you remove the rubber insert from your 5/8” deep spark plug socket. It just got in the way. This is especially the case if the metal connector is still attached to the plug after using the cutting technique. For a stuck plug, A "breaker bar" is helpful if you have one to get the plug turning.
•Remove the wire and note its path along the engine compartment. Each wire has its own press clips along the engine to keep them in place. Once it is pulled through, remove the end attached to the “Distributor” (I used to call it that in the day, they probably have another name for it now). This is all very obvious, once you see it and do it.
•Pick the correct length wire in the set to match the one you just removed. Reverse the order. Connect it to the distributor. Rout the wire back through its clips to the spark plug location. Press the boot firmly until you feel it “click” onto the spark plug.
•Start the engine to make sure you have it right.
•Repeat for all 5 remaining plugs.
After completing it, my engine runs MUCH better. My plugs and wires were shot and way over due for replacement. Can’t believe I put it off this long. The engine idles better and is smoother overall with better acceleration. Best of all, I saved money and know that job got done right. My next tune up will go much easier. Hopefully this write up will make yours go easier the first time around.
Changing spark plugs and wires should be an easy process, but in the ’97 Ford Ex, XLT it is not. Whoever designed the vehicle, did not design it with maintenance in mind. Perhaps this is a marketing ploy to get more people into the dealership for service?
Here is what you will need to get the job done:
•Spark plugs x 6 – I used “Platinum” Plugs which were about $4 each. Some on this forum suggest using “Double Platinum” or “Platinum Plus”, which are about $7 each. Your choice, but the factory uses the ones I did. I purchased Autolite plugs because it was easy to get. I have read they are crap. Buy them “pre-gapped” at .054” which meets the spec for the engine.
•Spark Plug Wires x 6 – Mine were about $65 for a set that are made to match the length of the OE Set of wires. Can get them at any auto parts store (cheaper or more expensive available). Only necessary if you cannot get the “Boots” off of the spark plug or want to change them as a part of the tune up. I changed mine because they were the original wires with 165K mile on them.
•5/8” Deep Socket and Socket Wrench. You will have to have extensions and hinged connectors to help with the contortions you will have to go through to get the plugs off.
•Breaker Bar
•Utility Knife
•“Exacto” Knife
•Locking pliers
•Spark Plug Gaping tool to confirm that the gap is correct on the spark plug
•Dielectric Grease (Silicone grease)
•Anti-seize “grease” to put on the threads
Getting Ready:
•Put Anti-seize on all the spark plug threads and fill all the wire boots with Dielectric Grease. Make sure you get the grease deep in the boot so it is on the metal part that connects to the spark plug. Don’t grease the other end. Line them up by length.
•Remove the passenger side front tire and get some room to work: Loosen the lug nuts on the tire and then jack the passenger side, front corner of the car up, per the instructions in your owner’s manual. You want the tire to drop down giving you access to the wheel well on that side. Place a jack stand under the frame for safety. Remove the tire from the car.
•Remove the mud guard from the inside of the wheel well. It is that rubber piece with plastic push tabs holding it on. If you break a tab, don’t worry, they are cheap and readily available at an auto parts store or at the Ford dealer. Just pull them out.
•You’re ready.
Removing the tire on the passenger side seems strange to me, but it is the only practical way to get to the plugs. Getting at this side from above is nearly impossible. There is too much stuff in the way and going through the wheel well makes it easier with more direct access and visualization.
Procedure:
•NOTE: PULL ONE WIRE AND PLUG AT A TIME! Don’t make the mistake of removing all of the wires and plugs and then trying to figure out how to put them back in the right spot.
•I started with the hardest first. It is the one in the back of the engine on the passenger side. I figured that if I got this one done the others would seem easy. Just my preference. Then removed the remainder on the passenger side back to front. Last, I did the driver’s side. It is easily accessed from above and does not require the tire removal and goes quickly.
•First: Pull the boot off of the plug. If yours are like mine, they will not budge. Only two of the six came off with the prescribed twist and pull method. The plugs had 100K miles on them and the wires were original (165K miles). I tried pulling with the special tools they sell for this purpose, but none gave me enough leverage in the small confined spaces of this engine compartment. Since I had the new wires, I settled on cutting the boot. To do this, you need a utility knife with a new blade and it helps to have an Exacto-knife. Reaching up with the knife, engage the knife at the base of the boot and press firmly. Pull the knife towards you, cutting along the length of the boot up toward the wire. This took only one hand. You can feel the metal connector inside the boot as you cut if doing it properly. The Exacto-knife gave me a little deeper access to the base of the boot because it is smaller, but less leverage. Once cut, put locking pliers on the rubber boot and pull. The boot should come off much easier. I had two of the four almost fall off using this technique.
•Remove the spark plug. It is easier if you remove the rubber insert from your 5/8” deep spark plug socket. It just got in the way. This is especially the case if the metal connector is still attached to the plug after using the cutting technique. For a stuck plug, A "breaker bar" is helpful if you have one to get the plug turning.
•Remove the wire and note its path along the engine compartment. Each wire has its own press clips along the engine to keep them in place. Once it is pulled through, remove the end attached to the “Distributor” (I used to call it that in the day, they probably have another name for it now). This is all very obvious, once you see it and do it.
•Pick the correct length wire in the set to match the one you just removed. Reverse the order. Connect it to the distributor. Rout the wire back through its clips to the spark plug location. Press the boot firmly until you feel it “click” onto the spark plug.
•Start the engine to make sure you have it right.
•Repeat for all 5 remaining plugs.
After completing it, my engine runs MUCH better. My plugs and wires were shot and way over due for replacement. Can’t believe I put it off this long. The engine idles better and is smoother overall with better acceleration. Best of all, I saved money and know that job got done right. My next tune up will go much easier. Hopefully this write up will make yours go easier the first time around.
