How to replace the gear shifter knob - top chrome cover flaking. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to replace the gear shifter knob - top chrome cover flaking.

I'll post pictures of the knob without it and of the cap itself. It's just pushed in with 4 tabs. Can't believe you can't buy it by itself. It should be a $5 part.

I went on F150 forum as it looks like F150 from 04-06 used the same design, and there are numerous guys with the cap completely broken. You can get the whole knob for about 45 to 65 bucks, and it looks like it would work on Explorers but can't say for sure.
 



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As promised:

The sleeve slides about 1/2 inch down. It took some serious effort in my case:

Bottom_zps48cabdd6.jpg


The knob without the cap:
Shifter_zps2765137b.jpg


Top_2_zps6fea6623.jpg


Top_1_zpsf4b3eaa2.jpg
 






Great, EPL! Will it take as much effort to run it back up the mast? Is that piece plastic or chromed metal?

My console is still in pieces waiting for this info. I tried cleaning all the goo with out pulling everything apart and washing it in a sink, but this will really help to do a proper job.
 






The lower sleeve is just chrome plated plastic. I tried first with flat screwdriver but it was about to chip on the edge, so I put the car in N so I had the shifter straight up, and grabbed it with both hands and pulled it down. Now it slides easily up. Once you loosen the set screw with Allen wrench, the whole knob pulls up, but I did not remove it yet completely.
 






I tried the chrome paint first. I sand it with 220, and sprayed it with the bulldog base that sticks to plastic, than applied numerous very thin, almost mist coats of chrome and it looked like crap :)
Chrome1_zpsb3e3d8bb.jpg


photo_zps3791839f.jpg


Then I soaked the whole cap in paint thinner so everything dissolved, and I applied the base and gloss black.
It looks better, but it will never look OEM. It's barely acceptable. I think Flex shifter is in near future.
Black1_zpsefcf051f.jpg


black2_zpsd8e8f2e4.jpg
 






I will refer to my previous statement that Chrome paint always looks like Paint! I for one really like the look of the Flex shifter handle! It is a modification I plan to make very soon I also plan to add a USB port too!
 






I for one really like the look of the Flex shifter handle! It is a modification I plan to make very soon I also plan to add a USB port too!

Like minds, as I have BOTH of those mods on order and winging their way to me .....
 


















Me three :)

I want to add USB port next to 12V, after I convert my GPS to receive the back up camera signal.
 






I assume that you can just tap the new 12V USB plugs power source into the 12V power outlet leads and probably everything will be fine as long as you don't overload the circuit by using all at once. Thoughts?
 






I assume that you can just tap the new 12V USB plugs power source into the 12V power outlet leads and probably everything will be fine as long as you don't overload the circuit by using all at once. Thoughts?

You are talking about adding a USB port for charging devices, only?
 






You are talking about adding a USB port for charging devices, only?

Yup, as I already have a USB cable off the after-market radio that came in my 2006. And I hate those plug-in-the-lighter-socket 12V USB chargers. They always seem to get suspiciously hot and are very loose. I have one, but dedicated USB port charging is best.
 






That would be pretty neat to have a USB charging outlet on the front of the console, just opposite of the 12V charging outlet. Seems if the device was right it would look like a factory installation?

Do you have a link for the socket?
 






Do you have a link for the socket?

The Amazon link above. While that one has a mounting flange, I have a sneaking suspicion that it can be removed and mounted in just a circular hole like the existing 12V power outlet. My plan was to make it look exactly like the factory installed power outlet.

PS -- Hate to thread-steal. Should we start a new thread on this project?
 






Scorpion -

It's OK :)

When one of us actually does the mod and adds a USB port, than start the write-up on a new one.
 






The Amazon link above. While that one has a mounting flange, I have a sneaking suspicion that it can be removed and mounted in just a circular hole like the existing 12V power outlet. My plan was to make it look exactly like the factory installed power outlet.

PS -- Hate to thread-steal. Should we start a new thread on this project?

Scorpion, I missed that link. What is not shown is what must be a big plastic nut that cinches up the device. It is also not apparent if the rectangular face plate comes off but it does look like the flap door is attached to it. It might be possible to trim that rectangular front plate, eliminating the screw holes and making a round escutcheon out of it?
 






What is not shown is what must be a big plastic nut that cinches up the device. It is also not apparent if the rectangular face plate comes off but it does look like the flap door is attached to it.

Yea, I think I said the one I ordered was "like" that one, but wasn't that one. It was this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3W6FR4/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1. This one shows the removeable backing plate and ability to mount as a round hole. I didn't have access to my Amazon account at work (dang IT nazi's! :) ) so I had to post this tonight at home.
 






Do you just tap it to a 12v ?
 



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Do you just tap it to a 12v ?

That should be easy enough from the 12v accessory plug on the other side of the console cover. If you look at the back of the console cover there is even a round platform area that was meant for another cutout.

My question is does the USB device (from Amazon) have the voltage reduction built into it?
 






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