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How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS

steelo1

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Great to see another Aussie on here, 2nd sandgroper in 2 weeks on here, this is the place to learn about our much under-rated 4b. With our exchange rate at the moment, now is when you want to buy from US, before it goes down again. :thumbsup:
We're lucky over here because they don't salt our roads as it only snows in 1 small area of Oz, so we don't get the serious rust that the yanks do.
 
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tylor2009

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i had to replace the driver side last night your write up was great, just one question i now have a ABS light on, any idea??? its driven me nuts
 

Glen4X4

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i had to replace the driver side last night your write up was great, just one question i now have a ABS light on, any idea??? its driven me nuts
Either the sensor in the new unit is maybe damaged or more than likely you don't have it plugged in tight enough, it may seem tight but go back to it and push the plugs together a little even if it seems like its not moving because I had this issue when I did a couple. Or there could be dirt interfering with the connections and you could spray an electrical contact cleaner on the points to get a better connection. Hope that helps.
 

ifly185

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I can't find the proper torque values for the three hub mounting bolts. There has been posts for the axle nuts and the wheel nuts, but I can't find the hub mounting bolt values. I have a Haynes manual for the 2002 through 2006 and there is not a listing in the front of the chapter 10 for the three hub mounting bolts. Does anyone have that? Thanks
 

ifly185

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torque specs for three hub bolts

I can't find the proper torque values for the three hub mounting bolts. There has been posts for the axle nuts and the wheel nuts, but I can't find the hub mounting bolt values. I have a Haynes manual for the 2002 through 2006 and there is not a listing in the front of the chapter 10 for the three hub mounting bolts. Does anyone have that? Thanks
 

CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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I don;t know what size your 2002 bolts are, but that is the key. Compare the size of those to the caliper bolts, or the another bolt there nearby. The size is what matters, and they are similar in strength. That means that if a caliper bolt equal in diameter takes 75lbs.ft. of torque, then so does that bolt. Most of those suspension bolts will be grade 8 and take over 60lbs.ft. at least.
 

scucci

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I can't find the proper torque values for the three hub mounting bolts. There has been posts for the axle nuts and the wheel nuts, but I can't find the hub mounting bolt values. I have a Haynes manual for the 2002 through 2006 and there is not a listing in the front of the chapter 10 for the three hub mounting bolts. Does anyone have that? Thanks
I just looked on the ebscohost auto repair reference center for the 2002 explorer. It says that you don't have a sealed hubs like 97-2001 models. It shows that you have a locking hub and replaceable inner and outer wheel bearings. Shows a 2 3/8" or 60mm socket for the wheel bearing nut.
 

ifly185

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OK guys, thanks, sounds like some more research is in order. Will report.

Bob
 

DudeBeast

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hear is a question

when you remove the hub assembly and if you turned the wheel fully to the right ....would you be able to pull the cv axle out of the spindle?

it seems to me that it could work without popping the upper ball joint and tie rod end .

thanks

Dude:p:
 

ifly185

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I actually posted on the wrong site. I have a 02 and the torque values for the hub bolts is 83 lbs. There may be a way to install just bearings, but Ford parts sells the entire hub like the earlier models. Thanks
 

gavin

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all I ever did was disconnect the upper control arm from the knuckle.
I never had to remove the TRE.
 

FlyBoyCoe

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I'm looking to replace my hubs tomorrow. I can get the Timken ones from Autozone for $150 ea., or some "Master Pro" ones from O'Reilly's for about $105. I want to go ahead and replace both, so there's a $90 difference overalll.

Has anybody had any issues with the cheaper hubs? or should I just pay the extra money and get the Timkens?

Thanks.
 

scucci

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I'm looking to replace my hubs tomorrow. I can get the Timken ones from Autozone for $150 ea., or some "Master Pro" ones from O'Reilly's for about $105. I want to go ahead and replace both, so there's a $90 difference overalll.

Has anybody had any issues with the cheaper hubs? or should I just pay the extra money and get the Timkens?

Thanks.
I put in the master pro hubs a couple of months ago. Quality seemed OK. No problems yet. If they do go out I'll take advantage of the 1 year warranty and pay the extra for the timkens.
 

perth

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hub assembly

I'm looking to replace my hubs tomorrow. I can get the Timken ones from Autozone for $150 ea., or some "Master Pro" ones from O'Reilly's for about $105. I want to go ahead and replace both, so there's a $90 difference overalll.

Has anybody had any issues with the cheaper hubs? or should I just pay the extra money and get the Timkens?

Thanks.
I bought the cheaper ones,looks to me like all the cheap brands could come out of the same factory,mine have been in for two months ,no problems so far.
 

FlyBoyCoe

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'00 Eddie Bauer
I put in the master pro hubs a couple of months ago. Quality seemed OK. No problems yet. If they do go out I'll take advantage of the 1 year warranty and pay the extra for the timkens.

I bought the cheaper ones,looks to me like all the cheap brands could come out of the same factory,mine have been in for two months ,no problems so far.
Awesome, thanks. Going to the parts store now.
 

FlyBoyCoe

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New hubs work great, realized the grinding sound I was hearing was the brake rotor hitting the caliper bracket because the old hub was sloppy. Turned the rotors and replaced the pads on both sides. Unfortunately, now that the hubs/brakes are quiet, I can hear other noises. I think my front driveshaft or t-case is making a clicking sound as it turns... oiy.
 

perth

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hub assembly

make sure your calliper bolts are really tight and the hub nut is at least torqued to 200lbs ,my dust covers make a slight noise rubbing on the rotor as it spins,cheers.
 

lparlove

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Thanks!!

Okay, continuing on my list of how-to's it's now time to change the front hub/bearing assemblies.

Work was peformed on a 1997 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC 4x4.

I purchased a DynaPak hub assembly from Advance Auto for $177. Seems to be a solid unit and I've heard from people in the past that have not had any problems with them. They do have a one year warranty against defects.



You should also purchase a new axle nut. They're not that expensive and since you're going to waste a lot of lactic-acid getting it off, you may as well put a new shiny one in its place.

Tools you will need:

Jack
Jack stands
Lug nut wrench (should be with your jack in your vehicle)
1 1/4" socket OR
32mm socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" ratchet
15mm socket
3/8" drive 3" extension
1/2" drive 3" or 6" extension
8mm wrench
Rubber mallet
Safety glasses
Long bar that will fit over your breaker bar's handle
Anti-Seize
Lok-Tite (blue tube)

*If you haven't noticed by reading my other how-to threads, I am an anti-seize whore. I believe in the stuff very strongly as I tend to hang on to my vehicles long enough to run into these repairs more than once. So it's a good way to plan ahead for the next time and you WILL thank yourself when that day finally comes.*

Hub Removal:

1. Loosen lug nuts

2. Loosen and remove axle nut with either 1 1/4" OR 32mm socket on a breaker bar. Try not to use your ratchet as you could damage it with the amount of force you'll need to get this nut off. You may need a long bar to put over your breaker bar for leverage.

3. Jack up vehicle and support it securely with jack stands.

4. Remove wheel.

5. Remove brake caliper. Two 15mm bolts hold this on.

6. Remove brake rotor. This just floats on the hub so a few good whacks with your rubber mallet should break it free.

7. Remove dust cover. Three 8mm bolts hold this on.

This is what you should now see:



8. Remove the 8mm bolt that holds the ABS Sensor wire to the back of the steering knuckle:



9. Disconnect the ABS Sensor wire quick-connect under the front bumper and any other clips securing this wire to the body:



10. Remove the three 15mm bolts holding the hub assembly to the steering knuckle:



11. Hit the lug side of the hub with your rubber mallet a few times; it should break free. Then it just slides off the axle splines and into your hands.

You should now see this:



Notice the huge amount of rust, fried grease and debris that was in the hub/bearing aperture.

12. Thoroughly clean and inspect the axle splines and hub/bearing aperture. Use a degreaser spray if necessary. Lay a film of anti-seize along the mating surfaces of the aperture and center flange of the axle.



13. Install new hub assembly by sliding unit onto axle splines and pushing back until it mates with the steering knuckle. Put some Lok-Tite on the axle threads and install the new axle-nut (just needs to be finger tight at this point). This will help hold the unit in place while you line up the three bolt holes and install the bolts.

Since this is a piece that usually does not come off the vehicle until it's time for replacement, I choose to Lok-Tite the three mounting bolts and then torque them down.



Tada! Pretty easy, wasn't it?

14. Connect ABS Sensor to connector. The DynaPak hub assembly comes with new retaining clips to hold the wire to the frame. This was a very nice feature of the unit. Simply pop out the old crappy clips and pop the new ones in.

15. Reinstall dust shield, rotor and caliper assembly. DON'T FORGET TO TORQUE THE CALIPER BOLTS DOWN TIGHT!!! These have a very bad habit of falling off on people.

16. Reinstall wheel and lug nuts (don't forget to anti-seize the lugs!) and lower the vehicle.

17. Perform final torquing of the lug nuts and axle nut (250ft/lbs).

That's it. You're done! No more God-awful rubbing noises announcing your presence wherever you go.

Jeremy
'97 Eddie Bauer 4.0L SOHC
Jeremy, great info, couldn't have done it without you! lparlove:thumbsup:
 
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Danhrph

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1998 mercury mountaineer
did mine on wednesday. Paid $120 shipped for a set from ebay. I broke one 15mm socket, one 3" extension, and one socket wrench, lol. 11 years of rust. Now I need to figure out how to get rid of the nasty creeking sound. Pretty sure it's the lower ball joint.
 
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